2/14 Mamallapuram

Had a wonderful day wandering around before I left for Mamallapuram: visited a great little grocery store with tiny isles and fresh cheese (I hadn't been in one for almost three months;), saw a man kissing his pigeons - I didn't know that is how you get them to come home, saw many more elaborate chalk drawings on the streets, found another fantastic french cafe with local NGO sponsored crafts, and got to email and chat with Siddarth.  I miss Dakshinayan more and more.  I miss the kids.  The simplicity.  After a two hour drive, I get to my very inexpensive hotel in Mamallapuram.  I feel like I'm back in India.  It's good but the hotel - well let's just say I probably won't stay there again.  I go to bed early under a pink mosquito net safely wrapped in my blue bed sheet praying the bed bugs don't bite;).

2/13 Happy Birthday handshakes and a rose;)

Lovely french breakfast - a silky omelet, flaky croissant, pineapple, papaya and a birthday rose.  Gifted myself with a luxurious haircut, manicure, pedicure and threading (actually quite painful but has proven to have longevity as I write this almost two weeks later) - all together only $16.  Skyped with the family and finally got to talk a bit with Myler.  Everyone I met gave me a handshake (which is rare) and many well wishes (actually a very long wish in Tamil that I haven't been able to translate;). Had dinner with a glass of red wine and was waiting for the dance club to open at 11 to find out that it closed ... at 11. Regardless, it was a pretty incredible place and way to spend my 39th birthday;)

2/12 Pondicherry

Pondicherry reminds me a little of New Orleans (without the Mardi Gras madness), Mexico, and a bit of Hawaii.  Its soft, quiet, walkable and very french.  I found numerous little cafes run by French women with art galleries and very good croissants.  The Gandiji Memorial on the beach promenade is fantastic. A large statue of him walking is surrounded by columns and concrete that kids use as a slide.  At noon in front of the schools, all the children eat lunch on the sidewalk with their mothers or grandfather.  Little and sometimes very big chalk drawings are outside most entrances.  Pictures coming soon.  I walked and walked trying to find an internet spot to Skype in only to find out that the restaurant right outside of my hotel has a lovely little alcove perfect for it - quiet and good bandwidth;).

2/11 FRRO III

No line at the FRRO office today, but the equivalent of a cashiers check takes me over an hour. Once I hand over the paperwork and small fee, I am approved for a months visa extension!  Funny six months ago, I thought I would have to hop over to Nepal to get a six month visa.  Because of the restrictions set in place in December that option was impossible as I would of had to stay away for two months.  So I am thrilled and a little shocked that it was that "easy";).  In the afternoon, I took a comfy bus to Pondicherry.   The ride was beautiful and quick.  I spotted a miniature theme park -Dizzie World with a chubby mouse at the entrance;). I arrived at my hotel, checked in, had a walk on the beach, beer on a roof, good dreams, and high hopes for a glass of good red wine for my birthday.

2/10 FRRO II

Went to the FRRO early.  After I arrived, a bus load of older American tourists arrived - irate and demanding.  It was never quite clear when the office actually opened and with all the Americans ranting it was even more chaotic, but somehow I slipped through the crowds asking what seemed to be the right people the right questions.  The answers were of course to come back with more paperwork and money.  Regardless I was grateful to get out of there in under 15 minutes.  I went and bought my ticket to Vietnam in a strangely pristine office building - so pristine I almost thought it was a front.  I headed back to the FRRO to "complete" my paperwork to find out that they are only open from 9:30-12:30.  That's a long lunch hour;).

2/9 FRRO

I decided to walk to the Foreign Regional Registration Office only a few kilometers away.  It was hot. All I had to do is think of a night in Roldih with no heat and the sweat pouring down my back was welcome;).   In spite of no street signs, I found my way through busy and quite small streets stopping for a little tea and fruit in a sleepy café.  The men seem to have more markings on their faces on here - lots of white, gold, and red.  Picked up the form and headed back to the hotel .  Dinner with paratha's, rice and a spicy dhaal felt a little like Dakshinayan;).

2/8 Chennai

Woke up on the train to meet an interesting older woman who has been running orphanages and schools here for over thirty years.  After looking at all of her pictures and brochures, we shared an auto to our respective hotels.  As she was getting out she gave the driver a good talking to as he tried to overcharge, adamantly stating that she was the Mother Theresa of South India and that she's been in this country longer than he had been alive.  For a seventy-five year old, I believe she may have the right to say this kind of thing, but nonetheless will probably not take her up on the offer to stay at her project;).  Chennai is more welcoming than Delhi but a little less interesting, at least on the surface, than Kolkata. It may just be that I'm focused on getting my visa extension. I check into a decent hotel with internet to do a little more catch up and go to bed early. 

2/7 Train to Chennai (Madras)

Woke up early for a big breakfast and run to the market for train snacks.  Forgot most of the market would be closed on Sunday;(  Got to Skype with friends at Malia’s Going Away Party!  I did get to pop the laptop out the window and give them a brief view of Sudder Street.  Forgot to point out my favorite outdoor bathroom but I will post a picture.  I’m starting to understand and enjoy the "argumentative Indian".  Checking my hotel bill and challenging them on certain items seemed to get me more respect.  Found the most beautiful apples at the market that were a mixture of apples and pears.  And they are really good with Nutella;)  There was a communist protest on the way to the station.  Protests are typical, but this one was massive and yet another reason for the cab driver to charge more.  I first saw it leaving the hotel.  Then over the bridge.  Then at the train station!  It just didn’t end.  Amazing.  Once on the train, everyone was in their bunks pretty quick.  I got sick again so no sleep.  Regardless, train travel is so seemless.  And the constant chai is comforting.  Just milk, strong tea, and lots of sugar.  Small and potent. 

2/6 More things ...

Things I wish I had brought

• More protein powder/vitamins
• More Starbucks Via's (a lot more;))
• Laura Bars
• Soft wet wipes  (needed for showers in 0c)
• Good makeup (vain I know, but I find it comforting;))

Things I wish I had brought for Dakshinayan

• A binder full of pictures (copies) about my life and America
• Good chalk
• Small Games (puzzles, cards, ect...)
• Poster paints
• Marbles
• Jump ropes
• Flash Cards
• Coloring Books

Things I did not need to bring

• A sleeping bag
• Three overpriced flashlights (either buy one here or get a handcrank - thanks for that one Andy!)
• Overpriced water filter (bottled water is everywhere)
• Picture album (I use my laptop to share)

Things I brought but didn't think I'd need (Thanks Mom;))

• Sanitizer spray
• Hand warmers
• Gloves
• a big bag of fancy trial size hair products;)
• a little collapsible pink cup
• and 7 pairs of socks (almost all used at once in 0c;))

2/5 British Counsel

Today ... went to the British Counsel with Mitali - no Brits in site, shopped for a salwar kameez at FabIndia (similar to a Costplus), saw an outdoor blue tiled urinal about chest high with only three walls, found a MAC - way overpriced, had tea at Flurry's,  waded through a sea of goats on one of Kolkata's smaller streets, went on the best rickshaw ride ever - against traffic!, had a blog marathon at the hotel, and watched an American film that was dubbed - in English;).

2/4 Decadence

I spent my morning replenishing supplies -  considering my toiletry bag is ten pounds, I'm still shocked I need to buy anything.  But it was fun to wake up really early and hunt for a shop that was  open and then take my time buying shampoo and face lotion (btw typically you can only find face whitening or lightening lotion).  Everything feels luxurious and decadent - running water, a bathroom in walking distance, tea when ever you want it, ....
The girls and I went to the tourist train booking office.  I was in and out in a few minutes.  They on the other hand had to buy eleven tickets for four people!  I was able to have a very needed download with my Mom and didn't even notice that almost an hour had gone by.  I headed back to New Market wandered around a little, had some delicious little snacks from Nahoums(sp?) (one in particular was a breaded boiled egg), and got ready for dinner at Mitali's.  The girls and I found some flowers - a huge spray of gladiolas, some whiskey, wine, and a relatively scrupulous taxi driver.  Raj poured the beers while we sat and chatted about Darjeeling, the Andaman Islands, the state of the roads in India, etc...;).   It was quite late by the time we ate.  Mutton, potatoes, lovely sweet Bengali rice with cardamon and cloves, Mitshi Doi (sp?- sweet yogurt) for dessert.  I had seconds and really could have had thirds but am grateful I didn't)  Mitali and Raj waited till we were done and gone to eat their meals which is customary. I don't even remember falling asleep.

2/3 Bolpur and Brooklyn?

Up and on our way to Bolpur before the sunrise.  Quiet reflection.  Bittersweet.  Familiar but new landscapes.  Brooklyn hip hop lightened the mood for a moment.  Lakes and beautiful hilly scenery.  A flat tire turns into a photo opportunity.  More rice paddies being tilled by spindly old men and giant bullocks.  Police demanding "taxes" from Bhola.   A quick but exceptional Bengali Thali meal in Bolpur the yellow University town home to a great grandmother banyan.  Bollywood magazines for the train to Kolkata;).  An honest taxi driver ... really?!.  Fairlawn Hotel for tea and a wash.  Drinks with the girls to "download".  .... So exhausted and overwhelmed both by the past two months and the uncertain future, it's hard to fall asleep but a movie with Abhishek helps;). 

The dash begins

Just a little note as I probably won't be able catch up till tonight or tomorrow.  I start my "India on a shoestring" backpacking tour tomorrow with the official stamping of my visa extension.  It's going to require all the energy, patience, and strength I can muster.  I'll be traveling fast and inexpensive (lots of cheap sleeper trains) till 30 March.  Mamallapuram - Chennai - Rameswaram - Trichy - Cochin - Ahmedabad - Udaipur (think James Bond) - Jodpur (the BLUE city) - Amritsar - Corbit National Park - Varanasi (Benares) - Kolkata - Chennai ... tentatively.  I may fall in love with Rajasthan and just stay there till the 19th!  Then I fly from Chennai to Kuala Lumper to Ho Chi Minh (Siagon) to begin another adventure - teaching and, if all goes well, working;).  Your prayers for me and my muscles (can't seem to get the pack weight down) would be really appreciated;).   

2/2 Farewells

I presented Class I's mural at assembly.  I had high hopes of a grand speech with many thank you's, etc... but due to my sugar hangover and lack of sleep, it was all I could do to get out a  few simple sentences. Then, each and every student came and shook our hands.  Dani and Tak were emotional but held it together pretty well - I was not ... yet.  It would hit me in Kolkata.  I had enough time in the afternoon for a little OCD packing - please note the color coded bags;)  I think I have gotten my pack down to 50lbs (from a 60 that is).  The evening was quiet - all emotion and excitement had been spent on Tak's birthday;).

2/1 Birthday Bash

Just after sunrise while I was walking around the project, I could hear Siddarth singing happy birthday to Tak.  As I came back to the veranda, I was welcomed with my own birthday wish and present from Siddarth and Mitali - a beautiful pair of earrings.  The girls had also received a matching pair Indian style. So thoughtful and generous.  At assembly the mood sobered a bit as Siddarth disciplined the four Class I culprits.  They had to come to the front of assembly grab their ear lobes (a sign of shame or saying "I'm sorry") and do a few squats.  They then came and touched my feet as a sign of respect.  Turns out I will not get to have class with them again.  A sad way to say goodbye indeed.  But Dani and Tak lightened the mood with their mural presentation and Class I singing "Old McDonald"..  After break, we went to Godda to check Joanna in and Dani, Tak and me out at the district police.  Joanna was spared the usual interrogation ("What color are your eyes? Are you Christian? What does INRI mean?") due to our celebrity status, i.e. our ATM news photo fame. And after the unusually short check in/out, we sat in Sachin's Ram Dev Baba store (my favorite place in Godda;)) where he gave us tea and free Frangipani soaps.  The evening was a blast.  For Tak's birthday, we all gathered on the veranda for more gifts and stories.  Then a bonfire with pakoras, chutney, parathas, veg chop, Pepsi, songs, an especially moist birthday cake with one huge candle and birthday streamers!  Thanks for sharing your birthday Tak;)!

1/31 Arrivals and Departures

Joanna and Mitali arrived in the mid-morning.  It's nice to have five women on the project;).  After breakfast and a little chat, I worked on Class I's mural as I would be helping Siddarth in the afternoon.  Even though I didn't get much time on it, I think it will be a wonderful teaching tool and little legacy piece in the classroom.  I will post some pics shortly.  I have to say that I am really jealous of Class II's mural.  Dani, Tak and the kids have created a mini masterpiece of hand drawn farm animals, villagers, huts, tractors, and so much more;).  In the afternoon, Dani, Tak and I tried to give the show and tell to Joanna. We all had so much to do before we left that I feel we were a bit on the curt side.  But the reality is that life is simple here and eventually you figure things out ... sometimes it takes a day and in my case sometimes a month;) or it just takes a little awkward embarrassment which was definitely my case.

1/30 SIT DOWN ... I'm really going to miss ... STOP IT NOW

Class I was totally out of control today.  Granted I have to take some responsibility as I can get silly and sing songy with them.  But as I was trying to tell them that I was leaving, some of the kids started playing soccer under the desks.  This is how it went ... "I leave in two days and I'm really going to miss .... SIT DOWN ... you.  I think you all ... STOP IT are very smart ... DO YOU WANT ME TO CALL GURUJI ... ".  I gave up after a few minutes.  The bell rang and one student in particular took my hand as he was leaving class and looked directly into my eyes, he didn't say anything but I knew he understood.  That's all it takes.  Regardless, I had to tell Guruji, or Siddarth.  My last day with them will be a day of discipline;(.  But this is just as important as any mural or song.  More organizing in the wonderfully warm afternoon helped to relieve any lingering goodbye blues. 

1/29 A little organization is all it takes;)

At break I started helping Siddarth organize some of his files.  I love doing this kind of thing.  It's tangible and there is so much to learn from the little things;).  I worked into the afternoon with grand visions of all the spreadsheets I could create for him. The reports to write. The strategic plans to discuss. Talking with Siddarth about the project, its past, present and future, has actually deflected some of the weepy nostalgia I felt coming on.  I feel incredibly objective, hopeful and excited about his plans for the future.  More importantly, I feel so lucky to have been a part of this project even though a very small part I know.  To have seen both the everyday and the big picture.  To get to know a grassroots activist who has truly made an impact. To see how a project survives, changes, thrives, even dies in India. Thanks Siddarth.  Can't wait to see what happens next;)!

1/28 Sunrise ... is that Bangladesh?

I've been waking up around 5a to take a walk, watch the sunrise, and meditate.  Today was exceptionally clear.  I heard that you could see Bangladesh from the project. Even though it may be a joke, I like to think that I saw the lights of the border just before dawn.  My body seems to really thrive on the schedule of waking up early, exercise, regular simple meals, etc... who would have known;).  One of my favorite parts of the day is assembly.  From my first morning on the project, I could hear the soft sweet sound of eighty kids singing the national anthem through out the day.  The sound is so beautiful and inspiring but these words seem to generalize.  There's nothing like it. .... yep the nostalgia is kickin in.

1/27 Things I've learned

Class I is almost done translating their letters into Hindi.  While I'm quite proud of them, Siddarth has said that they have done just okay.  For instance, a lot of the American girls used the term "hanging out with my friends and family".  The translation into Hindi went something like "I like to hang my family and friends outside" pretty hard not to laugh at that one;). With only a week to go, I started to get prematurely nostalgic.  Started to think of things that I've learned.  So listed below are just a few of the more mundane things ... I'll save the sappy ones for later;)

I've learned:

• How to eat with my hand (only the right of course) effectively and efficiently.
• How to wash my clothes till they are almost perfectly clean with a hand pump and bucket.
• How to live with out internet for up to five days.
• How to sing the Indian National Anthem in Hindi.
• How to effectively bath with a bucket in very cold weather - this one I only accomplished twice.
• How to use EVERYTHING - i.e. how to stop being the "I'll just buy another one American".
• That Spring starts in January in India.
• That one can indeed thrive off of three meals of rice a day - and still like it.
• That an occasional sweet treat is a vital ingredient for an urbanite to successfully navigate rural living (much more important than running water or electricity ... I'm so not kidding:)). 

1/26 Republic Day

Besides being another reason to open my hair and get dressed up, today was Republic Day - a very important national holiday.  I had actually been looking forward to this day since I started watching (ok and obsessing over) Bollywood movies just a year ago.  Bhola had made all the arrangements (i.e. for the flag raising and prasad) and Siddarth was doing a pretty good job of letting him being the "mother hen" that he is;).  The students lined up, villagers sat on benches and the tribal men and women gathered around.  A young girl, with a little help, unfurled the flag and marigolds fell around her feet.  Siddarth gave a relatively short speech in Hindi that focused on how we are all family - how all of India is a family.  Then an elder from the village spoke about Independence and a tribal man spoke in Santali telling the children to study hard - he got a few good laughs.  We still aren't exactly sure what he said.  Siddarth had Dani, Tak and me hand out the awards to the three top students of every class.  Siddarth explained that these lamps were meant to help them with their homework (and that it would be their own responsibility to get new batteries;)).  Afterward, Radha and the carpenters served prasad.  This time it was a sweet and savory mix - almost as addictive as Saraswati Puja. Dani, Tak and I wandered around the crowd taking pictures and videos.  Kartik's Mother and Grandmother had come to meet Siddarth for the first time.  We absolutely fell in love with his Grandmother.  Tiny with very large thick black rimmed glasses and a beautiful sari, she was very patient with us as we took photos and Dani talked with her in Hindi.  It was actually quite warm in the afternoon and with all the mornings excitement I was pretty exhausted by dinner.

1/25 Dani and Tak

Today was pretty typical so I thought I'd talk a bit about Dani and Tak.  As a whole, I was lucky enough to experience the project in a few different ways - i.e. as a solo volunteer, with Siddarth, with Mitali, with Neera, one of the Trustee's.  Since it is such an intimate environment, just the addition of one person makes a huge difference.  Siddarth had told me a little about Dani and Tak and their blogs had helped to shape my final decision on whether or not to come to Dak.  I had a feeling that they would infuse the project with a lot of fun and warmth - especially in light of the constant chill.  They did so much more than that.  They are both fearless, naturally open, infectiously curious, intelligent, and mature - but only if they need to be:).  They sang, in beautiful harmony, everywhere on the project.  They taught me the Indian National Anthem in Hindi as we painted the blackboards and even though this may seem mundane it's a memory I will always treasure. Siddarth likes to call them Betty (Tak) and Veronica (Dani). When we met in Kolkata to swap photos, they had just been selling eggs to tourists on Sudder street - singing in Hindi of course.  After they left, I realized I was really sad to see them go.  Needless to say, I feel so lucky to have shared Dakshinayan and all it's intimacies with these two remarkable women and can't wait to see what they do next!

1/24 Sardines have never been so good

Tak and I woke up early to help with breakfast.  The girls and I agree that our favorite breakfast is a thin savory pancake made with onions, cilantro, and chickpea flour.  The consistency is just so smooth and a nice departure from rice - don't get me wrong I love rice and am even craving it on it's own without daal;).  But Shanku made chapatis instead - a very close second.  Dani did not sleep well and is still pretty sick, so Tak and I met in the classrooms to search for mural materials.  Four hours later, we had gone through five dusty trunks and cabinets finding treasure after treasure - old books, NGO materials from the eighties, and heaps of collage material for our murals.  We spent the afternoon designing the murals that will hang in Classes I and II.  Class I's theme is the five senses and Class II's is farm animals.  Siddarth made the most delicious snack from a can of Sardines, onions, tomatoes, mustard oil, chilis, lime - all fried up.  Better than those fancy tapenades I had been craving!   Just a little shout out to Shawn and Laurie- that was the last of all those wonderful treats you both gave me before I left.   While my pack will be lighter - my tummy will be very sad;).

1/23 Disco Lights

Siddarth and Bhola left mid-morning for Dhumka to shop for student awards that will be given during the Republic Day holiday next week.  I was surprised again by another Class I student who started to translate her letter on her own.  It is so amazing to see just a little bit of initiative. The girls and I vainly tried to extract the coconut meat from its unwilling shell in the afternoon getting only small but really satisfying shavings. In the evening Dani seemed to be getting quite sick so when Siddarth and Bhola returned the excitement of showing the new classroom clocks and flash lights for the top students was dampened with concern. 

1/22 The Future

Siddarth talked with us about the future of the school today.  We talked about what it would take for it to survive and succeed with out his daily presence.  The girls and I agree that he needs a successor.  Someone idealistic but practical.  Someone committed with vision and guts.  The kids also need consistency as I have mentioned before.  Even though I believe whole heartedly that having an international presence here is invaluable for the students and teachers, I believe it needs to be restructured.  This, of course, is nothing new to Siddarth but I think it is a good exercise for him to talk through it with people who deeply care about the project.  At break the carpenters, Lata's father and uncle, arrived.  Because my camera's battery was dead, I sat and sketched them as they cut wood for three new windows.  The saw they used was enormous.  Again, I felt like a foolish tourist - so amazed by every thing they did.  Every little tool they used.  They were kind enough to let me gawk and sketch.  In just a half a day, they had produced by hand about 12 immaculate 2x4's using wood left over from another project site.   At night, I sat down to work through different strategic plans for the next phase of my life.  Even though I didn't come to any conclusions, it was a good process especially after having talked about the schools future.

1/21 Jalebi Sandwiches

The fog was really dense in the morning but gone by break.  Both classes were a little unresponsive, but I understood as I felt a bit sluggish myself after all the sugar and excitement of yesterday.  I have been trying to grade Class I's in class assignments and instead of an A+ they ask me to draw jalebi's - a squiggly fried sweet.  This seems to give them a lot of satisfaction especially if they get more than one intricately drawn jalebi. After lunch, the sun was trying hard to make a good spring appearance for Tak's motorcycle visit to Chandisgart.  And while Dani and I watered the trees, we were visited by a few young boys calling out "Goodbye, Bye bye,...", but as soon as Dani would go to the wall to talk to them they would run off and yell out from behind a tree.  Tak returned while I was on my laptop trying to catch up on email with treats - more sweets!  Jalebi's, coconut, and little sweet buns.  It was hard to restrain my giddiness with all the sweets, sun and internet access;). 

1/20 Saraswati Puja

It was Saraswati Puja today - the holiday that celebrates the goddess of learning, music and the arts and the fifth day of spring.  To top it off it was also warm!! It felt decadent and luxurious to get dressed up and wear my hair down, or open as they say here.  A really nice change from being constantly wrapped in sweaters and pashminas (oh and two pairs of gloves).  Siddarth lead the puja, or prayer, in the temple.  It was a soft beautiful chant like prayer.  Afterward, the children and villagers were given prasad, or sacred food offerings, that the students had prepared in the morning.   Coconut, guava, apples, amla, oranges, and lovely little golden syrupy sweet balls were served in very sustainable tiny leaf bowls.  Needless to say Dani, Tak and I went back for more after the crowd died down;).  Before lunch, the girls and I helped to make what seemed to a hundred puris, or flaky flat fried bread.  I can now confidently say that I roll a mean puri.  Dinner was made with a mysterious tasty root that I had seen laying on the kitchen floor since my arrival.  Even though the cold returned at dusk, I didn't really notice or even mind for that matter.

1/19 Blackboard Brilliance

Today I was a little frustrated with Class IV.  Siddarth and Mitali have mentioned that they are "reserved" to put it midly.  They don't even laugh at Siddarth's jokes.  Regardless, today was difficult.  I started class with reading and some comprehension questions.  Basically asking their opinion of the poem.  Not one student formed their own sentence.  Just a small sea of blank faces. I know with time and perhaps more warm up exercise in the morning they will open up.  This just goes back to the fact that they need consistency.  However (and there always seems to be a "However") just as the bell rang, one of the students asked me to look at her notebook.  Turns out she had already written her letter and addressed it to my sister Myler.  My frustration was gone just as quickly as it came.  The letter is fantastic.  Granted there are some grammar errors but the sincerity and effort is worth a week of blank faces.  Myler - you are going to love it!  After school, Shanku, Dani, and Bhola repainted the blackboards.  Turns out they are just pieces of plywood, primed, then painted with oil based black paint!  Dani, Tak and I have decided to replace two of the really warped boards - it will cost us each only $7.  We had also talked about creating some kind of mural with Class I and II as the other classes have the letter project so now we have something to put the murals on!!

1/18 Pen Pal Project

I gave out the letters that Myler and her Girl Scout Troupe wrote in November today.  Each student read them aloud.  Next I will have them translate them into Hindi for comprehension.  Then they will start to write their own.  We had bitter gourd for dinner - very bitter indeed but with a large scoop of rice it is quite nice.  Shanku also made mashed potatoes which made me think of home.  Still really cold - up to eight layers of clothes just grateful that I brought them.  And besides, I'm getting a lot of reading done - read the Harry Potter series;) and it made me cry.  Next book is the God of  Small Things - this time a book set in India.

1/17 Black Salt

It was so very cold today that it was a struggle to do anything but read in bed let alone teach.  The morning star jumps helped though.  For morning snack, we had slightly green guava with black salt .  I had heard about this before I came and had been anxious to try it.  My friend warned me that it had a very distinct flavor that takes quite a while to get used to.  It is very distinct, i.e. it tastes like sulfur, but it's also really good for you - packed full of minerals. I ate half with and half without.  I'm not completely won over but I do like it.  The wind drove us all into our rooms in the afternoon.  I opted for an eighth layer of clothes for dinner.  The good news is I think I've finally learned how to effectively eat with my hands (technically hand as you can only eat with the right one;).

1/16 First Day of Spring ... are you sure?

Tak and I got up early to do last nights dishes in honor of the first day of spring.  We did warm up exercises with the kids and the affect was fantastic.  Class IV loved it.  They tend too be a little reserved but just getting them to run in place and do a few star jumps (jumping jacks) wakes them up.  They even answer questions in class!;)  Morning snacks of papaya tasted like summer.  By dinner though the thought of spring was frozen out by 4c winds. 

1/15 Last day of Winter Eclipse

I video taped all the kids individually reading with the hope of teaching them to be more confident articulate readers.  However, I don't have enough battery power to capture their progress.  Regardless, I think it was good exercise.  They were able to see how they read, pronounce, articulate, etc.  Halfway through Class I, a gentleman from the village came into class and rounded up half the students - the villagers.  The tribals kids stayed behind.  Because it was going to be a solar eclipse, the Hindu students had to leave early to eat early as eating during the event is not allowed.  Even though it was not entirely visible in Jharkhand, the light was still that erie dusky color and the air felt heavy for at least an a hour after lunch.  The girls and I watered some of the trees and moved some earth, but could feel the cold coming.  By sundown, the cold was back and we fell asleep to distant drumming.

1/14 Is it really almost Spring?

Everyone seems sleepy today.  It's funny though how a meal can make everything okay.  Black eyed peas, cumin, tumeric (or haldi), ground corriander seeds, onions, garlic, chili, and some ginger (or adarak) is all it takes;). The villagers also brought some sweets - part of the festival tradition.  Rice flour triangles with sugar and milk.  Anise and cashew treats.  Siddarth says that the cold is coming again.  It helps to know in advance so I can mentally prepare, but more importantly so I can make sure all of my socks are clean for layering purposes of course.   Dinner was made with green papayas - poor Siddarth winced a bit as I guess he had to live off the stuff for three years while at the Cheo project. It was interesting but a bit too mushy for me.  I've been really struggling with the value of my impact on the students but working on lesson plans helps to focus and direct the concern.  Theoretically, I know we, as volunteers, help to give exposure and maybe even a little education, but it's much harder to believe in practice.  It's just such a short period of time.  These kids are amazing, strong, resilient, intelligent.  I just can't imagine how they would respond to consistent dedicated devoted teachers. 

1/13 Tribal Dances

Tribal festivals started up last night.  Drumming and singing all night. Dense beautiful fog in the early morning.  105 students at Assembly! Class I was atypically well behaved today.  Even the quiet ones seemed to be joining in and even attempting to read.  This shattered any remnants of my bad mood.  Dani and Tak and I talked about the Pen Pal Project today.  I've decided to use the Myler's Girls Scout Troupe letters for Class IV and they are going to set up an exchange with a friend of theirs in Australia.  My only concern is if they will be able to continue to write each other after we are gone.    After lunch, we walked to the Burdikura market - the one I visited my second day on the project. Even after a month, I'm still so in awe of the beautiful simplicity.  We stopped by a small hut with a very loud thrashing coming out of what looked like a stove.  Villagers were gathered around with baskets and bags full of rice.  Bhola lead us around for a better look.  The stove was incredible.  Made out of smooth dried earth and metal, rice is poured in with what looked like bubbling boiling black sand.  Then the rice is poured into a sieve to reveal puffed rice.  Brilliant. As we walked into the village, we first heard the high pitched singing of women and young girls.  Then we saw them.  About eight older women were lined up arms linked.  About six young girls hunched over in front of them clapping.  Two drummers led them through the center of the market. Old men with red eyes and little clothing drawing pictures on their arms.  The same story - a long line then a a square, another line and dash.  Another moment were I was totally overwhelmed - so grateful to be able to see this but very sad that I didn't have my camera;).   

1/12 Chawanprash

Sleepy day.  I've started wearing six layers which helps tremendously.  Even the kids seems slow to start.  Siddarth shares stories and Chawanprash, a sweet tart ayurvedic herbal medicine that helps to warm up your system. As soon as I saw the sun, I manically tried to wash as many clothes as possible.  Honestly, today I felt a bit crabby.  I missed the familiar.  I missed my friends.  I didn't really care about amenities or warmth for that matter - just missed the emotional comforts of home.  Thank god there was some applesauce left;).

1/11 Applesauce

Despite the bitter cold, classes were pretty good today.  I think everyone is excited to start the new year.  It's pretty amazing that these kids are showing up in this weather .... and usually in not that much clothing.  I've got at least four layers of clothing on and some of the students don't even wear shoes to school.   After all the kids went home and the dishes were done from lunch, I decided to distract myself by making applesauce.  Dani and Tak helped out.  We found some spices, put in some lime and ginger and let it simmer for a bit.  It was very difficult to wait till dinner.  But as soon as were done with our meals, we grabbed for the still slightly warm apples - they were delicious and especially comforting in 5c.  

1/10 A Sunday Stroll

Before registration, someone (this year Bhola) goes around to Roldih and it's adjacent villages before registration and talks to the parents inviting their children to attend - mostly nursery and some Class I and II students.  Luckily, we got to join him. Since I'm trying to catch up on almost a month, I'm going to stick with some brief observations with more to come later. -  Small clearings with smooth propped and angled stones that look like sculptures used for thrashing rice.  Drying radishes spread out like a mural.  Rice sitting in the sun on a raised cement platform. Docile baby goats.  Flowers and animal reliefs inside a shadowy thatched hallway.  Mustard field photo shoots.  Laughing old men.  A small obscured corn field.  Children always following.  So many beautiful smiles and curious questions.  Mammoth Banyan Trees with very climbable roots.  World Vision villages.  A well with a bicycle wheel gear.  Squashes growing on the rooftops.  Dormant rice paddies.  Misty vistas. .... on the walk home, Bhola yelled "Hati, Hati!" (Elephant, Elephant!).  We ran to catch up ... out of breath and sooo excited.  Turns out it was only a ploy to get us to step up the pace;).