12/3 Tear Down Culture

Saigon is in constant rebuild mode.  Every week buildings change. Businesses change from Pho restaurants to fashion shops.  It's instant really and so bizarre to watch.  Just on our street alone I've seen maybe 5 businesses completely change overnight.  To top it off our landlord is going to demo their house in February.  Which means we would have to live with four months of 24/7 construction.  Sad but true.  So we'll be looking for a place... I'm considering going to Hanoi for a year ... will investigate and see how it goes.

12/2 Reflection

A year ago today, I waved goodbye to my Mom and Dad. I flew 26 hours to Delhi.  I saw the Taj and cried. I lived in Jarkhand with no running water or electricity but was able to blog once a week.  I fought for an extended visit to get stung by a scorpion then sedated with opium tea.  I saw the Golden Temple and the heart of God. Flew to Saigon. Saw the Mekong.  Fell off a Monkey Bridge. Explored Angkor Wat. Worked seven days a week for seven months. Been to weddings, dinners, parties. But even after a year, I feel like I don't understand Vietnam and still want to go back to India. There is still time I guess;).

12/1 Lemons

Lemons are limes and grapefruits are pomelos.  Beef may be dog and fish always has eyes.  Milk is deadly sweet and fresh milk is ever so slightly sweet. Toast is cold bread and tea is always jasmine. Dollars are Dong and Karaoke is King. 

11/30 How to Great Your Grandmother in VN

Cross your arms covering your hands with a slight bow.  Very respectful to all older people - older meaning elderly.  I have not yet received this greeting ... thank god. 

11/29 Excitement

Am loving the Saigonese Christmas excitement, decorations, songs (some of which I have never heard and would so love to take home), silly broken English signs (ie Snow Let it!), lights, little North Pole villages springing up everywhere ... may have to get a little tree before I leave;).

11/28 Electric Bikes

they're everywhere.
so cool

11/27 Bordello

Pretty convinced that we live next to a brothel - very discrete brothel seeing as Sacha and I have just now figured it out.

11/26 Thanks What?

Didn't really even know it was Thanksgiving yesterday;(.  But am still oh so grateful for everything - my incredible family, friends, India, Vietnam ... and the future!

11/25 Professional Developement ...

... I really need it;). Had my first workshop today and realized how badly I need more.

11/24 Vietnamese Car Seats

Normally little ones either sit between their parents on a motorbike or have a little wicker higher chair that fits in front of them.  But sometimes you see this:

11/23 Friendly Negotiations

Learned from a Chinese Friend the art of friendly bargaining.  Shopped the entire afternoon at Ben Than Market and instead of getting upset and frustrated, had a few laughs and may have even gotten a few good deals.  My strategy was all smiles, kindness and "lucky numbers".  My lucky number always being half the starting price of course;). 

11/22 Home Cooking

What kind of food do I miss?  The first thing I think of is my Mom's Stroganoff. Second, organic anything and everything - Whole Foods, Watercourse, Root Down oh my.  Third, cheese.  Good stinky cheese.  Fourth, good wine ... oops thats not food .... or is it?;)

11/21 Facebook Saves the Day

Had it not been for Facebook, I wouldn't have known that my Grandmother had bipass surgery.  I am not very close to my Dad's family. Regardless, just crazy that almost all my info came from my granduncle through the book.  I did get to talk to her via more conventional means.  She is strong, but scared.  I love you Grandma and think of you everyday.  Today, I'm grateful for Facebook.

11/20 The Real Teachers Day

More flowers, cards, money, gifts, wine etc... but the best was a large crystal hand holding a crystal ball.  By the looks of it, my students think I am a poor wino who needs some fortune telling;).  Very grateful and quite touched by all the love.  What a great holiday!

11/19 Teachers Day with the Teachers

Teachers Day Party.  Tug o War in a monsoon (I won $1.5!).  Singing Happy Birthday just to get everybody "in the mood". Handwriting contests-very prestigious.  Gifts of money,whiskey, and bouquets of flowers all loaded onto my motorbike.  Huge multi-course meal shared on small tables and tiny chairs.  At one point, the teacher sitting next to me took my hands and delicately cleaned them with limes. And of course Karaoke.  Fabulous evening!

11/18 Teachers Day Begins

Teachers Day - one of the top five holidays in Vietnam.  I was given some beautiful little green bags, a date book, a pen and fabric for an ao dia.  My students sang beautiful songs in Vietnamese - almost brought me to tears;).

11/17 This time last year

This time last year, I was getting ready for the arrival of family and friends.  I was getting more and more anxious about my 60 lb backpack.  I was getting more and more excited about India.  Who would have known that a year and almost 400 posts later, I'd be in Vietnam getting more and more anxious about my 60 lb suitcase and more and more excited about going to the U.S. for a vacation. Wild;).

11/16 Understanding

Talking with Sacha, I just realized how strange it is going to be to understand everyone;).

11/15 Other Intrigues

Also to be seen in 2011:
Indonesia
Malaysia
Myanmar
Hong Kong
Beijing
Laos

11/14 Singapore

More and more I'm intrigued by Singapore. A progressive and sustainable city/country.  The Vietnamese seem to love it - that and Korea. A must see in 2011 - the latter probably not till 2012.

11/13 Distinctly Vietnamese Sounds

There is one thing that I have had a very hard time describing, but to me is so distinctly Vietnamese.  Men and Women ride bicycles with a little loud speaker attached.  They ride around at all times of the day and night.  Their voices sound scratchy and staccato over the loudspeaker. When you close your eyes, the sound is kind of like a little time machine. When I first heard it, it made me think of 1940's communist propaganda.  I thought for my first few weeks that it was communist doctrine, but later found out they were selling bread;).

11/12 Hoi An

Hoi An in Central Vietnam.  The destination for my Fourtieth with my Mom and Aunt in February !!!

11/11 No News

I've been pretty oblivious to the news since I got here.  Sure I get the big news from friends, coworkers, students and online.  But the weather, just not a realistic news item ... at least in English. Forecast: Rain, Heavy Rain and Fabulous Thunder Storms;).

11/10 Not So Quiet American

Went to see Megamind this afternoon.  After the fourth visit to get the correct ticket, I turned into a typical ugly American.  As I got louder and more upset, they just got quieter and nicer.  The manager came over and I just got more upset - so ashamed:(.  But I can gratefully say this is one of maybe two times this has happened.  I think I just need a trip home.  Yeah it's time. 

11/9 BBQ and Friends

Returned to BBQ Garden for dinner with friends out till the wee hours of the morning playing pool.  Great nite out.  I was overdue;).

11/8 Routine

It's all just becoming routine and oh so familiar.  The million motorbikes, hundreds of lovely open air markets, tiny stools, Vietnamese Love Ballads (which I have finally started to really enjoy), the genuine love and respect given to teachers, the excitement of the kids, the closeness (i.e. no personal space) ... going home is going to be strange indeed;).

11/7 Vietnmase is harder than Chinese ... really?

Learned today that for some, Vietnamese is actually harder than Chinese.  The latter has only four tones while Vietnamese has six.  Wish I could hear let alone pronounce the difference;).

11/6 Rain Rain Rain

The monsoon is now normal.  I live in my helmet, face mask and raincoat.  My clothes are constantly wet.  It just makes those rare moment when the sun shines just that much more wonderful.  It feels so light, bright and clear.  Otherwise, it's rivers for roads and plastic for clothes.

11/5 India

Miss India today.  Miss Hindi, the music, the movies, the food, the tea, the trains, but most importantly Dakshinayan.  Hope to be back in the New Year;).

11/4 Burnings II

Sat and watched three young men burning colored paper in front of their new shop.  It must be for the full moon.  Again, driving down the street  people crouched outside their shops lighting small fires with colored paper and fake money.

11/3 Hot Pots

Hots Pots - lovely broth, squash blossoms, morning glory, squid, various unidentifiable tentacled creatures, enormous prawns with beady black eyes and a gigantic whole fish.  It was an awesome, if not slightly intimidating, dinner;).

11/2 Heaven

Cat Moc ... the best affordable spa experience I've had since I've been gone.  Quiet, ultra clean, proper pampering for pennies.   I went twice this week.  Sacha has deemed it Heaven.  First Thai massage experience ... strange stretching massage in a light little pajama outfit.  I think I like it but am still not sure. May have to try it again next week to make sure.  And I have to try every single treatment before my Mom and Aunt get here.   Wouldn't want them to be misinformed;)

11/1 Noisy

Is it just me, or does Saigon get louder the longer you stay?

10/31 Just a Little More Madness

More bobbing for apples and scary stories.  Sad to see Halloween end. 

10/30 And the Madness Continues

And the Halloween Madness into the weekend.  Mostly angles, butterflies, Spidermen and witches. The staff are so eager to see pics of Halloween in the States, but sadly I can't find any.  Note to self: scan all photo's while home;).   This was the most important thing I forgot to bring abroad.  

10/29 Celebration!

It's official.  My mom and aunt are coming out in February.  I just can't believe it.  I'm so very excited.  There's just so much we have to do;)!!!

10/28 Eggs and Flowers

I love the fact that every morning, I can buy eggs, flowers, fruit, music, or  lottery tickets.right outside my door from people on bicycles, on foot, on motorbike, on mini trailers and in baskets..

10/27 Comforts

Simple comforts - a latte and a salad.  Different than a hamburger and a mall - but really the same;).

10/26 Halloween

Halloween is pretty big here.  Tons of little shops selling costumes and fake blood line the streets.  This week is going to be a blast.  Scary stories, bobbing for apples, costumes, ... I'm just having trouble finding big bags of candy.  Otherwise, everything else is covered! 

10/25 Island Tree Houses

Nite out with some friends.  Heard about some remote island tree houses in Cambodia very close to where Sacha and I will be vacationing in February.  You have to take a fisherman's boat and food is scarce ... I'm so there!

10/24 Culture Shock XXVII

Absolutely everything was annoying today.  Mostly the noise.  The constant street noise and it just seemed louder since I had been back.  Maybe after the quiet of Cambodia, the noise of Saigon is more obvious.  Regardless, it was driving me crazy and my earplugs weren't working.   In this situation, when in Rome just didn't cut it, so I went to bed early;)

10/23 Technology

Bought a new phone.  Happy with the purchase.  Pretty confident it is new.  Definitely sure I paid too much.  Technology is expensive (i.e. the same price in the U.S.).  You never know if you are getting quality and there are definitely no returns;).

10/22 Early Mornings

Started my early morning runs in the park to get ready for skiing in December.  It really is one of my favorite things to do in Saigon.  Can't wait to take my Mom and Aunt in February;). 

10/21 Angkor Wat II

My tour of the complex was rushed.  I will save the details for my February visit.  It has definitely ranked in the top three.  Returning to Siem Reap, I took a long slow walk down the river and found a beautiful pagoda.  Wandered through the complex which felt light and alive compared to Angkor Wat.  The colors were vivid and there were old women and young people sitting, praying, lighting incense, chatting. Went to a little restaurant and had some wonderful Cambodian food - coconut fish curry.  Walked back to a more touristy area and sat on a corner with my laptop and a glass of rum.  Woke up at 5a to catch the first of two very long buses back to HCMC.  Had 15 minutes to run and get my passport in Phnom Phen.  Still can't believe my little remok driver made it.  Funny thing was after haggling for the price, he took my money and said "I hope you gave me a tip".  Made me laugh.  So audacious.  Regardless, I love the Cambodian people.  Such incredible smiles.  Can't wait to go back in Feb. 

10/20 Angkor Wat

On another remok at 7:30a and off to Angkor Wat. My first real look at Siem Reap.  Definitely strange.  A lot of money and  a lot of poverty.  Similarities with India of course.  But here affluence is strangely present. A huge amount of money was infused in this little sleepy temple town in the 70's - and you can tell.  Strikingly luxurious boutique hotels are at every corner ... very very bizarre to see.  The thing that drew the money was Angkor Wat. And it is massive - hundreds of acres massive.  I'm dropped off at the entrance to be surrounded by kids selling hats, post cards and bracelets. This is a relatively new phenomenon as just five years ago you needed a police escort due to land minds. After the initial barrage, I'm greeted by a gentle man who says "You have a friendly face" and who really meant it.  I looked at him and he asked for my ticket.  I walked across the moat watching the sun rise over the temple and began to cry and couldn't believe that I was really here.

10/19 Buses and more buses

After an afternoon on a crowded Vietnamese bus showing gory animal flicks (the guy next to me thought they were hilarious), I arrived in Phnom Phen late at night to take a remok in search of a decent hotel.  After a few negotiations, I found a nice little hotel with a view of the palace and Silver Pagoda.  Tried to get online to Skype with my Echo Ladies with no luck.  Up early in the morning to get my Vietnam visa extension and tickets to Siem Reap. On a bus at 2p to arrive at 8p.  Although rushed, I could already see that Cambodia was different.  The faces, the smiles, the language, the script, ... the advertising ... so different.  In my eight hours to Siem Reap, the only billboards I saw were for political parties - The Cambodia People's Party and the Sam Rainsy Party.  The latter of which was very sporadic.  Arriving in Siem Reap, I was picked up by another remok and taken to my very substandard overpriced hotel on the river.  I arranged an early pick up for my day at Angkor Wat and hoped for the best.  Went for a drink at a lovely hotel in the "heart" of the city and felt pampered.  It was lovely after two days of buses.  Strangely quiet and luxurious, I just sat and watched and enjoyed Cambodia. 

10/18 Realization

After a run thru the park at dawn and  a trip to the early morning market to buy (or negotiate really) fruit, it hit me ... I'm doing what I always wanted to do.  Great moment - sadly followed by the one of the most stressful and annoying days of my short time in Saigon.  By the time I got home, it was really hard to remember the "great realization" of the am, but it managed to linger enough to calm me down - that and my ear plugs;). The street noise just doesn't stop.

10/17 Another First

Walking home way too late,a motorbike dashed by me attempting to grab my bag - with my laptop in it no less.  I fell to the ground with my bag - now mangled like my hand.  Five women ran to my aid making me sit in a little stool at the side of the road dusting me off and checking for injuries.  A women that must have been 90 came out and applied some pungent ointment to a wound on my hand.  I kept trying to get up but they insisted that I stay.  Made me check all my belongings.  At one point the police drove by and they all laughed. After about a half hour a younger women came over and gently said "five minutes". I figured she was going to put me on her motorbike and ride me home as I had given them my address in broken Vietnamese.  She came back, took my bag and then me by the waste and gently guided me home.  It was a long walk as I didn't know what to say and felt really awkward walking so closely knit with a woman I didn't know - I don't walk that close to women I do know.  But by the time I got home, we knew each other a little better and I was oh so gratefully to be home safe. I'm just a little in awe of the immediate and abundant generosity of Saigon women.

10/16 Badminton

Up at 5a for a walk in the park.  While doing lunges an older Vietnamese gentleman motioned me over to play badminton - he had a good laugh and I got a good work out;).  

10/15 New Shopping Experience

New shopping experience today.  Similar to the big market in District 1, Binh Thanh, but bigger and multi-leveled.  Also very difficult to bargain.  But I went with a seasoned friend and we managed to walk out with a few dresses and purses for a decent price.  Loved the architecture and cramped spaces, the Plexiglas 4x4 stalls and tiny walkways.  Will definitely visit again and soon;).

10/14 ABC

Spent over an hour with my new corporate class on the ABC's.  We had a blast.  Who knew you could have so much fun with the alphabet;).

10/13 Unhappy Vietnamese Americans

Strange phenomenon:  I have met three Vietnamese Americans in the last few months.  All of which were very disoriented and very eager to talk.  Mostly they wanted to talk about malls and hamburgers;). 

10/12 Frantic

Frantic scramble to organize a three day visa run to Cambodia.  Trying to make it a holiday as well, but looks as though 28 hours on the bus will dampen the "vacation" experience.  Too much to do, but of course grateful for the opportunity;).

10/11 Saigon

I'm cheating a bit on dates, but will catch up with Cambodia pics and stories soon.  Just wanted to say it's good to be back. Never in my wildest dreams did I think I would call Saigon home;).

10/10 Home

Missing the family something fierce today.

10/9 Package from Denver

Got home early today surprised by a post ticket for a package from the States.  Had some time in between classes so I ran to the post office, paid the tax and decided to just open it there as it was from Denver.  Alyssa and Martha had obviously been reading the blog as everything that I said I missed was in there ... and more.  My goodness.  Organic heaven;).  Lotions, soaps, shower tablets, a box of laura bars, my favorite magazine, tons of Vias, and, to top it off, my favorite Bollywood Movie.  What love! Thanks Ladies.  Can't wait to see you in December.

10/8 Culture

Today we talked about culture in my corporate class.  It was very interesting to see how their priorities changes as we talked.  At first they listed institutions, the economy, and religion.  But as we got deeper into the discussion, the priorities became language, food, transportation and behavior.  Four hours later, I think we all came to the general, if not much disputed, consensus that language, religion, behavior, food and institutional policies are the first things to research when going to a new country.

10/7 Culprit

I feel so guilty. Guilty of egging on my little 3 year old laughing baby Buddhas to laugh more.  I live for it;).

10/6 Time

Today, we discussed time.  In Vietnam, it's acceptable to arrive a half hour even hour late ... if you are Vietnamese.  However, if you are a foreigner, you are expected to arrive on time.  I had read about this in the "culture shock" books and finally experienced it real time last week.  Despite the prior knowledge, I was still very very annoyed;)

10/5 Sober

While I'm very excited about my trip to Cambodia, I am very sobered by researching it's history.  I had a little knowledge of the "Killing Fields" and Pol Pot, a little knowledge of the mass genocide and bloody past, a little knowledge of the tense cultural relations with Vietnam from my students. After just a little research, I have realized that this will be quite a different experience than I was anticipating. More to come...

10/4 Fancy

Fancy new automatic red motorbike.  Very fast and worth the extra gas and money for more comfort and speed;).  A little comfort is all it takes to minimize the insanity of HCMC traffic and make a half hour trip to Phu Nhuan fun.

10/3 The Kingdom of Cambodia

Going to Cambodia on Sunday for a 3 day visa run.  Found out yesterday I can get a year's visa extension, so I'm off.  I'll be doing a little recon for a possible 40th Birthday trip in February with Sacha.  I'll be in Angkor Wat (picture above) all day Tuesday, back to work on Thursday. So very excited!

10/2 Central Vietnam

The director of one of my corporate classes invited me to central Vietnam for three days today.  They are going to donate resources and flood relief. If I had more notice, I would have gone in a heartbeat.  I'm so very disappointed, but can only hope the opportunity comes again;).

10/1 Sweet Seaweed Juice and Fried Fish Balls

Dinner with students on a tiny street on tiny stools.  Tiny fried fish balls, tofu and okra with sweet seaweed juice for desert.  Loved the former ... the latter not so good;).

9/30 Dried Squid

I'm now addicted to shredded green mango, fish sauce, lime, basil and dried squid. Sweet, sour, aromatic and salty but surprisingly not that fishy.

9/29 Yes or No

I'm finding that maybe is not an acceptable response.  Yes or No, but not maybe.  Is this a particularly Vietnamese trait? 

9/28 Superficial

Superficial moments: first highlights ever. Way too excited. Spending money on my hair.  Yes vain, but worth it.  Maybe I'm just trying to connect with my Mom ... miss you as always.

9/27 Ticket

It's been a week of firsts.  Got my first traffic ticket today.  I've avoided the beige uniforms until today.  Turning an innocent left, I was aggressively motioned to pull over by a beige battoned helmeted @#$@@, who proceeded to threaten me with impoundment.  In my mind I was thinking deportation.  He actually made me go to the ATM to get him money.  I have a few expat friends who have been pulled over and have been let go, but, no, I was charged 200VND ($10). My students said he was just hungry and needed money for dinner;).

9/26 Kids

I teach about 300 kids now ranging from the ages of 3 to 14.  Each class has it's own personality but they all share an amazingly genuine enthusiasm.  I'm still shocked every day by how excited and truly engaged they are, how responsive and intelligent they are.  Sure there are bad days and students, but they all seem to love a good song ... I sing a lot ... something I really never saw myself doing;). My only regret is that I can't give them more one on one time as some of them really need it and get lost in a class of forty.  I am grateful for my smaller classes but they have been getting bigger and bigger as the weeks go by so even with them I have to rely on group dynamics rather that personal interaction.   

9/25 40th

Sach and I are trying to figure out where to go for our 40th.  Borneo? Myanmar? Explore Vietnam? At one point we were going to take the motorbikes for a two week trek up to Hanoi, but have decided against it due to time and, well, age;).  I have also been struggling with the fact that I should be accomplishing something extraordinary in the next few months - a marathon, completing my 100 things to do list,etc. But I think I may already be accomplishing something by being abroad;).  I'm still working on this so we'll see what happens over the next four months;).

9/24 Chitty Chitty Bang Bang

One of my favorite things in Saigon: ancient motorbikes that sound like Chitty Chitty Bang Bang.  I must have heard it a hundred times but it still makes me laugh.

9/23 Exploding

Searched for a pharmacist for over two hours in search of aspirin, ibuprofen, anything to make the exploding pain in my head stop.  Turns out it was right next door to my favorite cafe where the headache had started - very inconvenient and inconspicuous considering I drove by it about four times.

9/22 Moon Day

Today is Moon Day aka Mid-Autumn aka Children's Day.  My early morning class surprised me with a classroom fully decorated with large and small lanterns in the shape of butterflies, fish, pigs, etc.  - all of which had little tea lights in the them (the large ones looked to be highly flammable and are now hanging safely on my terrace).  They served moon cakes and told stories. Then we made small paper lanterns while listening to Katie Perry and Usher;).

9/21 Denver

For the first time in almost a year to the date, I missed Denver.  The feeling came from out of nowhere and lingered for a few days.  The crisp air, clean streets, Wash Park, walks with friends, triathlons, dinner with friends, riding my bike along Cherry Creek, Autumn, snow, organic stuff, a skyline full of mountains ... these images just kept flooding in.  It lasted for about three days.  It was really strange actually. 

9/20 Long Days

Long Days for the next few weeks: seven locations, four hours of driving, six different levels of students (from 3-50 years old) and four different methods of teaching.  While I love it, honestly I'm exhausted.

9/19 Scarves

When classes end, we usually have a party.  Go for coffee or have food delivered.  Today we took a walk through the park and sat at a lovely cafe. They ceremoniously gave me a beautiful pink and grey scarf as they knew I have been collecting them since my trip to India.  I'm starting to get very attached to my students - this group in particular and it was very hard to stay goodbye.  I just have to remember, there's always Facebook;)

9/18 Firsts

First new real phone since I left home - with email and very cheap.  I'm in heaven.  Especially since I have to go to the doctor for the first time as well.  So I sit and play games on my phone as I anxiously wait.  The whole experience is very western.  Down to every detail really - except for the fact that my doctor seems to take my questions for answers and just nods in recoginition;).  Regardless, I leave with a very inexpensive set of prescriptions and a phone that chimes every few minutes to let me know that I am loved;).

9/17 Sick, tired and grateful

Really really sick.  Head pounding want to cry sick.  But my kids are great.  The teens are a bit antsy and annoyed but all the lower grades, well they just make me feel better. I stay after class and get little presents, kisses on the cheek and I love you Ms. Amie Blue - better than cold medicine any day;).

9/16 Really?

Third cold in less than five months! and second eye infection.  Guess its just the combination of working 7 days a week, monsoon rains and contact with over 200 children a week.  Still love the kids ... and the motorbike in the rain;).

9/15 First Moon Cake

Tasted my first real Moon Cakes today.  Savory - strange mixture not sure was in it and didn't want to know (probably pork, egg and sugar;). Sweet - lovely, as I mentioned before, perfumy with a bit of vanilla and ginger and egg.  I'm told the egg in the middle symbolizes the moon. Can't wait till Moon Day!  Lanterns, cakes and stories;).

9/14 Late Night Coffee Shop

Went to a Cafe to meet a student.  A great little secret next to my house - or secret to me and my student.  Its hard to find I guess as I waited and waited.  Turns out he couldn't find it, so I sat and watched.  Watched as everyone drank their sweet avocado shakes and cafe sua da.  Watched as they played Vietnamese love ballads to animal documentaries - first a gazelle giving birth and then a cheetah being skewered by a buffalo both very graphic.  More and more families and groups of people showed up and the music got louder with more techno sans the gory animal movies thank god;). I sat in relative anonymity enjoying the huge waterfalls and beautiful greenery.  Gotta love the coffee shops in Saigon;)!

9/13 Language

I actually heard the language for the first time today.  All I've heard for the last six months was either the numbers or just a jumble of bouncy vowels and abrupt consonants.  But today, I heard it and it was quite beautiful for the first time.  Maybe even elegant in it's own way. ... the funny thing is the sentence I heard Toi khong biet - I don't know;)

9/12 30/4

Went to a beautiful open plan restaurant, 30/4 or April 3rd Club (the day of reunification) behind and on the grounds of the Reunification Palace today with some students.  Talked about tennis and learned some Vietnamese. 

9/11 Waterfalls

Waterfalls of rain in rush hour traffic with a stalling motorbike and flooded streets - so not a good combination!  I'm just amazed I survived.  To reiterate, you are inches away from other bikes, buses, cars and taxis and constant flow is mandatory. After I found a safe haven, I saw three accidents - mostly taxis knocking bikes over. The riders got up like nothing happened and then drove away even faster.  Crazy.

9/10 American Guilt

at least once a day.  I look at people my age and older and shudder at what we did to them.  But not once have I ever felt unwelcome or any kind of hatred.

9/9 Dak

Very sad news.  Dakshinayan may close next year.  The operational costs are draining poor Siddarth and there just aren't any volunteers.  It's so so very sad.  However, my aunt is writing a letter to Oprah, so Deb if you're reading this please include Dakshinayan in your O' plea.  Seriously, there has got to be a way to help Siddarth keep the school open.  Any advice, contacts etc would be greatly appreciated.

9/8 Bottles of Gas

When I first arrived, I noticed liter sized bottles with yellow or green liquid sitting at the edge of the sidewalk.  I thought it might be an advertisement or maybe even an offering.  A mere six months later, one of those little water bottles saved me a lot of time and hassle.  I had run out of gas and the nearest gas station would have been a long walk in heals.  So to my happy surprise, the attendant at my school pointed to the little bottle and 20kvnd ($1) later I had petrol in my tank.  I love all the simple little conveniences in the developing world.  They may be a little hazardous or dangerous but they are convenient none the less;). 

9/7 Vision

Even though I really love teaching, today I have the need to be a part of something bigger with a strong vision.  I started a great corporate class teaching 7 business men and it just got me thinking about organizational behavior, strategic planning, etc. and how I love being a part of that process.  My current position is very autonomous and the school is very much for profit with little if any "service" oriented goals or values.  I will still continue to gain experience as a teacher here and/or in India over the next two years, but I really need to start researching schools that have a more values based culture;). 

9/6 Little bags of food

So I finally decided to take part in the street food outside my house.  A women stops in front of our gate every day around four.  I stop and point "xoia" - mango. The young guy who helps us with our bikes guides my purchase.  Rice paper flakes mixed with basil, chili, shredded mango, fish sauce and boiled egg all tied up neatly in a little plastic bag with very tiny chopsticks ... its addictive;).

9/5 Lost

I feel like I lost something. I have that horrible feeling of misplacing something very important.  That aching feeling of "I know I put it somewhere".  The feeling creeps in when I'm leaving the house, riding my motorbike, planning, even when I'm teaching. Then I realize that I have this horrible aching feeling  because I haven't talked to my Mom;(.  ... miss you.

9/4 7 hours

Due to seven day work weeks and a manic driving schedule, I treated my self to a most luxurious day at the spa.  After seven hours, three massages, a facial and ... well I won't bore you, I finally decided that I had enough pampering and went home.  Considering the fact that the day was a meager $42 and that I felt fantastic and very relaxed, it was worth it indeed ... even if it was a little over the top.  Today, I love Saigon;).

9/3 Moon Cakes

Little Moon Cake shops started popping up all over the city about three weeks ago kind of like firework huts pop up in the States around the 4th of July.  These little stands sell beautifully decorated little cakes to celebrate Mid-Autumn.  I had been asking and asking when they celebrate and no one knew.  They just kept saying the lunar year.  I have now found out that it is on Sept. 22 - the Equinox.  Also tasted my first cake today - green pea, egg, jasmine and vanilla - it was delicious with a strong perfume taste so only a few bites;).

9/2 Monks

The new school I teach at is surrounded by pagodas.  So there are monks in orange or grey robes with conical hats wandering the roads or riding motorbikes ... quite slowly I might add;) (or am I just riding faster?).

9/1 Baby Buddhas

Sorry for the cheese, but god came in the form of little chubby 3 year old laughing baby Buddhas today;).

8/31 Family;)

Here's my family with their hats on;)

8/30 I Miss Organic Stuff

I miss organic stuff;).  I miss spending three hours wandering around Whole Foods looking at overpriced organic toothpaste and soap.  Then spending too much money on a locally grown salad, a Dwell magazine and Kombucha ... oh Kombucha;). 
I just have a sneaking suspicion that all the produce we get here is saturated with nasty chemicals.  Perhaps healthy doses of wine helps to counteract any bad effects;). 

8/29 Finally!

My family finally got the package I sent them in early May!  Can't even begin to say how happy I was.  Tons of silly stuff - hats, shirts, money, strange snacks, business cards, brochures, bowls, Vietnamese signs and name tags.  Just a really cool way to connect with the kids;).

8/28 Rivers

Rode through a river today.  The water was up to my knees.    I rode with my feet up down the street laughing the whole way.  It was fabulous.

8/27 Culture Shock Observation #7

Am now addicted to American Idol - Season 9 no less.  Adam Lambert is a rock god and I am a nerd;).

8/26 Humbled

Just so humbled by the Vietnamese Language - and exhausted by it;).

8/25 Jasmine Tea

Iced jasmine tea is served everywhere instead of water - this is also the tea they pour into iced coffee. Lovely.

8/24 Sleep In

First sleep in day in two months.  What luxury:). 

8/23 Stats

Mobile phone internet usage went up 840% in Vietnam in 2009! Fascinating;).

8/22 Denver

I will be back in Denver this December for two weeks.  First thing that comes to mind: friends and family;).  Second, the cold.  It's going to be strange to be back in the snow!  But can't wait to see everyone.  Just be patient with me and my reverse culture shock.  I'll try to be relaxed about it but can't really promise anything;).

8/20 5 Months

I've been in Saigon five months to the date.  It's so hard to believe.  Although I'm starting to pick up a little Vietnamese, I still don't feel like I know Vietnam.  Even despite trying to get lost once a week, I still have not really seen the city.  It's more evident the more I explore.  This is a very very frantic city.  It wakes up early and goes to bed late.  However, I am finding that there are sanctuaries everywhere.  These sanctuaries come in the form of stunning restaurants and cafe's - well for me at least;).  Just discovered there are least five in the Phu Nhuan district I trek out to three times a week.  Can't wait to visit them.  While I still love riding my motorbike all over the city, it is stressfull in more ways than I can explain.  Let me just say you have to be calmly assertive and hyper-alert with a hyper-sense of humor or else you will go nuts.  So these little sanctuaries are really a necessity for sanity;).

8/19 Behind

Wow! I've never been this behind on the blog!  I am very busy and my poor little Netbook is on the fritz.  Considering it went through rural India and a hundred other "nonlaptop" type situations, I'm not surprised.  I should be able to get it fixed here?  Regardless, it had a good life. Updates soon;).

8/18 New Words

My favorite little restaurants and coffee shops are all on board.  One new word a day. Today Mang Vey(sp?) or Take away.  I will use this a lot;).

8/17 Western Goods

Sacha and I found a fantastic store with aisles and aisles of western imports (well only two aisles really but very tightly packed aisles;)).  We must have spent an hour wandering around the store excited and thrilled over such little things as Darjeeling tea, lentils, and granola bars.  Lot's of "oh my god's" and  "look at this's".  Very comforting indeed;).

8/16 More Chickens

The chickens had been strangely absent, but have come back with a vengeance.  We now have three loud, if not beautiful, roosters living next door that have a lot to say especially when I'm trying to sleep;).

8/15 Motivation

My primary motivation for writing this blog every day, or at least catching up ever week or so, is staying connected with my family.  I just think of the letter that my great grandfather wrote to his grandchildren.  I've read through it so many times.  Loved the blue ink and old almost transparent typing paper.  But have always wanted to know more about his trip around the world.  While I know my writing is nothing epic, I do hope and believe that one of my great grand nieces or nephews and maybe even great grandchildren will read this silly simple blog with the same fascination that I read my great grandfathers simple but oh so elegant letter to his grand children and so lucky great grand children.

8/14 Cliche

It feels cliche, but I try to get lost once a week.  On those light days when I have a few hours to spare I take a turn into a small street with no name.  Invariably, I find a different world.  A different side of HCMC.  Today it was right behind my house.  A little maze of tightly packed houses the size of closets and streets the size of sidewalks.  They opened up suddenly to reveal a tennis club with an elegant restaurant that even advertised yoga classes and a gym.

8/13 40

As of today, I will be 40 in six months.  I'm not quite sure what this means;). 

8/12 Sublimated Homesickness

I'm watching American Idol and Desperate Housewives.  I guess this is how I deal with homesickness and culture shock:).

8/11 Beggars

Beggars are virtually unheard of in Saigon.  Yes there are a few in Pham Nhu Lao, but in other areas the displaced are for the most part relegated to selling lottery tickets to people in the little cafes with the little stools. There was, however, an older woman wheeling around a young disabled man at a cafe that I frequent tonight.  She walked him around the tightly knit tables and almost every table gave them a few thousand Dong.  Even with my experience at the shelter, I am very curious as to where the indigent are.  Compared to India and even the US, there is just no one sleeping on the street.  What happens to the homeless in Saigon?

8/10 Breakfast

My student brought me breakfast this morning.  A big plastic bag full of five plastic little bags. Yummy crispy sesame cracker crisps, noodles, bean sprouts and greens, and two unidentifiable dark brothy soups. Very very tasty;).

8/9 Monsoon

Just for clarification the monsoon season lasts for six, yes six months in Saigon.  On a good day, this means cool breezes and fabulous thunder storms. On a bad day, this means being soaked in a stinky raincoat and riding a motorbike in what are normally streets but have turned into rivers. 

8/8 Eating Well

Wow! A family of eight can eat very well for only $75 a month.  If you were to look at my budget, you'd think I was feeding a family of sixteen very large football players;).

8/7 Security Catch and Release

Sighting of the day: security officers playing catch and release with dragon flies.  They are everywhere. 

8/6 Afternoon offerings

Shopkeepers burning paper money and other offerings in front of their shops lined the main street on my way home today.  They were all crouched down tending the little fires.  It was beautiful. 

8/5 Cell Phone Etiquette

does not exist in Asia.  It's perfectly acceptable to answer your phone in class, in the movie theater, etc... Takes some getting used to.

8/4 Gloves and Slipper Socks

I am one step closer to being immersed in Vietnamese culture.  On my ride home from work, I could literally feel my skin sizzling.  The sunscreen I bought two days before seemed to be useless and was really expensive. So I pulled to the side of the road and motioned to a little old woman selling gloves.  I purchased a set of cream colored silky elbow length gloves and matching slipper socks for about $1.  I am now officially covered head to toe as I ride around Saigon.  Just four months ago, I looked out in disbelief and confusion at the masked masses.  Now, I so understand;).
ps pics coming soon

8/3 Eight months

 Both of my classes took me out for coffee after class today.  I didn't think about it until now, but I have been away for eight months to the day.  What a great way to celebrate.

8/2 Ivy Fruit

My student brought me a bag of "Ivy" tonight. Turns out it's a fruit ... a very very very sour but yummy fruit:).  

8/1 Dan's Birthday

Had a much needed night out with the CELTA crew to celebrate Dan's Birthday.  Had my first glass of wine in over a month and felt as though I just might be able to survive and thrive on my crazy schedule. 

7/31 Hit the 24/24 wall

All over Pham Nu Lao there are "24/24" signs which, I am almost certain, translate to 24/7.  This morning I think I hit the 24/24 wall.  I was sick, tired and almost cried when someone asked me how I was.  I will give it until Wednesday to see if I get better.  If I don't, I will have to give up one of my classes;(.

7/30 Garbage Lady

Was yelled at by our early morning garbage lady today.  She finally gave me the universal sign for money.  Our landlord pays 10,000VND (about $.50) for trash pick up every month, but I think she wants more.  We seem to generate more garbage then three houses combined.  Ah the life of a westerner. 

7/29 Health Drinks

Popular Vietnamese health tonics:
Birds Nest - made of bird saliva
Fresh Ivy Juice

I have yet to try them.  Will post as soon as I gather up the nerve;).

7/28 First 38 hour week

I've finished my first 38 hour week which is really almost 80 hours of work with planning and travel.  I'm pretty exhausted but still grateful for the experience.  My new classes are fantastic, very dynamic and engaged. 

7/27 Monsoon Cold Season

Very sad to say that I have another cold.  The monsoon brings lots of nasty cold strains and I seem to be catching them all.  Other teachers have said it takes a season to get used to the rain.

7/26 Oh India

Found a copy of an Indian Movie today!  My Name is Khan.  While it was very serious with little music or dancing, it was still wonderful and just so great to hear Hindi in surround sound;).

7/25 My toe

Someone ran over my toe today while I was in traffic on my motorbike.  No real harm but honestly the first time I felt anything close to real road rage.  It just shows how very 'close' you are to your fellow motorcyclists here in Saigon;). 

7/24 Picnic in the Park

Had a lovely picnic in the park today with a few other teachers today.  We talked about the impending work permit crack down, visa runs and the general confusion that accompanies anything having to do with the government.  Tried some strange sweet but heavily salted dried apricots. Lots of sesame and cashew sweets and of course cafe sua da;).

7/23 Wild and Crazy

Taught the craziest most out of control bunch of 10 year olds today.  Burned through 6 activities in the first 45 minutes.  The last activity was the only thing that kept them busy for any length of time. I had cut about 30 images and matching words for each student and then scattered them around the adjoining room.  They loved it and I regained a sense, if not fleeting, of control;).

7/22 Power

The power cuts out pretty regularly as I've mentioned before.  Usually it's irritating and a huge inconvenience.  But tonight, it cut out around 11pm and it was lovely.  It was just so still, so serene.  I sat in the darkness for about a half hour and felt, for perhaps the first time in weeks, relaxed, calm and at peace.

7/21 Afternoon off

Spent my afternoon off in a lovely cafe surrounded by windows and trees.  Got lost in new neighborhoods.  Learned a few new Vietnamese words.  Visited Bui Vien.  Felt like a real day off;).

7/20 Holy Thunder and LIghtening

Biggest storm I have ever ever been in tonight.   The house rumbled and the sky flashed for a half hour.  It was awesome, exciting and just a little scary;)

7/19 Two Good

Two "just good days" in one week - Vietnam is definitely growing on me;).

7/18 Half tails

Vietnamese cats only have half tails.  Soph and her broken tail would fit right in;).

7/17 Old Women

I love the old Vietnamese women - all crooked and bent over, no teeth and all smiles. 

7/16 One on One

Started my one on one low level class with a CFO tonight.  I learned a lot ... just not sure if he did;).

7/15 Still New

Even after nine months, I still see something new and bizarre everyday.  Today's sighting was a woman on a motorbike with about twenty large clear plastic bags full of water and very large silver and gold goldfish.   They were all tied to long poles about five feet high on the back of her bike.  She looked like a circus vendor except she was riding down the road.  It was dusk so the light was illuminating the water and fish ... just beautiful ... and so bizarre;). 

7/14 Bollywood Kin

Have a student that shares my love, obsession really, with Bollywood.  Sadly, my suspicions have been confirmed.  There are no outlets for music or movies here;(.  Left with online.  Guess I should be grateful for that;).

7/13 Blue Blue

Finally got to talk to my Mom today ... after a month;(.  It was 3am for her and afternoon midplanning for me.  The conversation was rushed and nowhere near enough.  I write this two weeks later and we still haven't been able to Skype.  It's killing me.

7/12 Sapa in September

Longing for a day off.  Longing for quiet. Longing for beautiful landscapes.  Sapa in September I think! 

7/11 Lost in the side streets

Lost in the tiny crooked side streets around our house today.  So lovely.  Little quiet neighborhoods.  Lots of trees, motorbikes, little stools, hellos and ciaos, little cafes, and small open squares.  Felt a little like Paris.  A little like India. 

7/10 Just Good

Just simply a very good day today;).

7/9 Around the world

The world map is up and planning has begun. 
Tentative Plan:
2 years in Vietnam
2 years in India
2 years in Eastern Europe or China
2 years in the Middle East
2 years in Aftrica or South America
with lots of lengthy visits home of course

Around the world in ten years;).

7/8 Avocadoes and Tomatoes

Lunch options for today: in a blender-tomatoes, milk, condensed milk, sugar and ice or avocadoes, milk, condensed milk, sugar and ice .... hmmm. Decided to go with a plum and hard boiled egg.  Just can't cross over to sweet avocadoes yet;)

7/7 Family Ritual

The family that owns our house lives next door in a smaller home joined to ours.   They have a very large beautiful garden that we can see from our living room and kitchen windows.  The grandmother is up around 6a ringing bells and praying to her families ancestors.  Large pictures of men in their prime line the wall where she sits.  Late at night outside in the garden she bows to the directions with incense in her hands;). 

7/6 Bring and Buy

Sacha organized a bring and buy fundraiser for the shelter today.  Ended up making 7m Dong.  Go Sach!!! 

7/5 Social Life

I think I lost my social life;). 

7/4 Vacuum Facial and Salty Popcorn!

After working 7 days a week for over a month, I treated my self to a $5 facial.   It lasted about an hour and a half and they used a gentle little vacuum on my face!  I couldn't help but laugh.  The day ended with a movie and salty, not sweet, popcorn.   I had been searching for non-sweet popcorn for months.  Turns out its at the movie theater next to my house;).

7/3 Take a Number

Had to take a number at the bank today.  Because of the way it was set up, I kind of felt like I was at a deli;). Strange.

7/2 Butterfly Trees

Across from one of the schools that I teach in is a wonderfully manicured park. Massive trees with little red flowers line the perimeter.  The best part is that they're filled with large yellow butterflies;).  Just lovely.

7/1 Family Sick

All I can say about today is that I miss my family.  Each and everyone of them.  Feel very disconnected.  Haven't gotten to Skype much as I'm working 7 days a week up to 60 hours. While I'm grateful, of course, I really need to find a way to Skype at least once a week.

6/30 Last day of class

I asked everyone to bring their favorite food to our last day of class ... they had corn and chili pizza and watermelon delivered.  It was delicious and very spicy. As with the lychees, the students also had a story to accompany the melon - seems fruit stories are common;).  

6/29 The Mechanics

As you turn into our tiny crooked street, there is a tiny crooked mechanics stall.  Two men work there from before dawn till way after dusk.  They fix motorbikes, of course, as that's all that can fit into or next to their 4'x2' stall.  Neither of them have legs.  They both push themselves around on flat wheeled pieces of wood and at night load up their tools in a wagon powered by a push wheel common in Asia.  I just noticed them today ... and I've been here for almost two weeks. 

6/28 Vietnamese vocabulary

My Vietnamese vocabulary:
Mot hai ba yo: 1,2,3 cheers
Xin Chao: Hello
Chao Em: Hello little brother
Cam on em: Thank you little brother
Xin Loi: sorry
almost all the number up to 999,999 (chin tram chin mu'oi chin ngan chin tram chin mu'oi chin;)

and Hen gap lait: See you later

Yeah I know doesn't seem like much, but just being able to say the numbers, and properly, feels like a huge accomplishment;)!

6/27 Unofficial House Warming

Had a few friends over for an unofficial house warming get together ... we'll have the official "party" when we actually have a day off.  Watched England vs. Germany with a bunch of very upset Brits;).  Listened to music and talked late into the night around our beautiful kitchen bar.

6/26 Business Class

Teaching a huge class of very demanding pre MBA students.  Excited for the new format.  Even more excited to teach big words ... one of which is microproprogation!

6/25 Home Sweet Home

Did laundry in a small but very efficient washing machine.  Hung everything up to dry and hoped for the best.  Wandered around our lovely house, moving things, organizing, admiring all the beautiful windows and trees.  Our kitchen has no oven which is common.  Only a two gas burner unit on the granite counter and a toaster oven.  Still trying to figure out what and how to cook;).

6/24 AAA in Saigon

Had a flat today and a little panic as how to deal with it.  Thank god Sacha hadn't started riding her bike yet.  I took hers to work and called the owner of my bike. She picked it up at 3 and had it back by 3:30.  No charge, no hassle.  AAA in Saigon;)

6/23 Cooking

I have absolutely no idea how to cook here;).  Have been to a few grocery stores and I'm basically limited to cereal, tea and eggs. There are rows and rows of fish sauce, aisles and aisles of chewing gum, cases and cases of strange meat parts and an even stranger frozen foods section. However, with all the fruit I'm eating  I will be on a fabulous diet ... until I can learn to cook Vietnamese or find a western/Indian grocer. Wish me luck!

6/22 We're in!!

The day was a bit stressful as I had to teach two classes - one of them a new format and entirely new students.  The move took a bit longer and was a little more than I expected.  We had to move via taxi.  The first guy wanted to charge us $5 dollars which doesn't sound like much but we stopped him out of principle as it should be less than $1.  So we unloaded and found a metered taxi.  It was a bit crazy and very frustrating.  But by the time Sacha and I opened a bottle of wine later that night on our lovely terrace, all was right with the world and we felt "at home".  Seeing as I haven't had one in ten months, it felt mighty good!

6/21 Gliding

Just can't explain how much I love riding a bike around Saigon.  Granted there are moments of extreme tension .... sometimes even terror especially with the buses and left hand turns across nonstop expansive streets.  But for the most part, riding up on the sidewalk, two inches away from 8 million other bikes, going against traffic, going the wrong way down one way streets, clad in a little helmet and pretty little face and neck mask all feels quite normal and almost natural now;).  I love it and am starting to finally be grateful for Saigon ... everyday.

6/20 Going Away Party

And then there were seven.  Said goodbye to Gabi tonight at our little party restaurant Aroma.  Our CELTA group is getting smaller and smaller.  Sacha and I have decided to have a half birthday in August before everyone leaves;).  If they can do it for Chinese New Year, why can't we?

6/19 Happy Home

We found a lovely house today ... finally.  Three levels, two rooms, two bathrooms, a beautiful kitchen, very high ceilings, lots of light and windows, modern furniture, and a fantastic terrace sitting in the trees.  We move in on Tuesday .... which will hopefully take all of an hour or two as everything I own in Vietnam can fit into my backpack and a few little bags.

6/18 Am I really that shy?

The beautiful Indian man that I have a crush on talked to me tonight.  He waited outside while I was eating and totally caught me off guard.  I stuttered a few words in response and walked very fast to my hotel.  I really don't remember being this shy?  But it did make my day;).

6/16 Half Tet

Worked on the database at Green Bamboo Shelter and was invited for lunch to celebrate Half Tet - or the day that marks the Chinese half year.  Was served a fried tofu noodle pancake that we put into lettuce leaves with basil and some other greens and then dipped into yummy fish sauce.  One of the boys gave my a Bon Bao- a doughy desert to celebrate the day.  Later that night, one of my students brought in fermented rice that was basically just alcohol, red rice that was supposed to be lucky and lychees.  Happy Half Tet;)! 

6/15 Oh Soooo Lost

Left work around 8p, felt pretty confident I could find my way home.  An hour later, I realized I was lost ... oh soooo lost.  While my super power is my sense of direction, the stinky canal is definitely my kripton.  I ended up all the way out by the airport.  After two hours and five stops to get directions later, I finally got home.  Cranky and oh sooo ready for a beer.

6/14 Green Bamboo Warm Shelter for Boys

Visited the Bamboo Shelter today.  I'll be volunteer teaching about 20 street boys English three times a week.  After meeting with Mrs. Phat, we also came up with a plan to set up a much needed database for all of the boy's information. I'll also be helping her to write and edit grants.  It's a perfect balance to teaching.

6/13 First Official Day on a Motorbike

Learned to drive the motorbike around the park while old men and kissing couples watched, laughed and eventually clapped.  It only took about ten minutes and I was out into the sea of motorbikes ... very timid, slow and wobbly, but successfully navigated a few round-a-bouts and even a left hand turn on a eight lane street with my instructor on the back!  However, one hour was enough, so I headed over to Dune to relax and memorize my map.

6/12 Tangy yogurt

Mom you would be in heaven.  There are beautifully decorated tangy yogurt shops everywhere.  I just can't believe I didn't see them before.  I crave one everyday now - probably because they make me think of you and Cali;).

6/11 A little bit of India ... well kind of

Watched Slumdog Millionaire with two of my classes and they loved it.  The words most of the students wanted to know where chai wallah, gang, gangster and silencer - crazy;).

6/10 Dune

Ah Dune Cafe - I spend my breakfast and planning time here everyday.  Thuan, Khoi, Lap, Quan, Dang and Phuong are teaching us Vietnamese and greet us with Cao Chi ( hello elder, yes elder, sister;)). 

6/9 Pham Ngu Lao

Can't wait to get out of Pham Ngu Lao - the backpacker tourist area that I've been living in for 3 months. Ready for a home, ready to go grocery shopping, ready to do my own laundry, ready to have movie nights with Sacha and dinner parties for friends;).

6/8 Normal Day

Work. Errands. Lovely dinner with lovely Chilian red wine and lovely friends.  Then off to see the Prince of Persia.  What a wonderfully normal day .... it's been awhile;). 

6/7 New Class New Neighborhood

New class new neighborhood today.  About a twenty minute bike ride across the toxic canal into a more authentic district.  The class is a bit older, a slightly lower level and so enthusiastic.  We only have three weeks together, but I'm hoping we can all sign on for the next class that would last about 8 weeks. 

6/6 Still miss India

Still miss India everyday.  Typically we as westerners tend to mysticise and exoticise India, but I think I fell in love with real time India.  I can list all the things again and again, but I wish I could describe why I find absolutely everything about that complex challenging beautiful tragic proud country fascinating.  Maybe that's part of it - I love that it's not easy.  I love that everything, the people, the politics, the languages, the food, the history, etc. is so complicated but so incredibly inspiring and amazing..

6/5 Big House No Go;(

Sacha and I have been looking at a beautiful big three bedroom house the last few days.  Big terrace, lovely kitchen, huge living room space.  Our third roommate fell through though, so no go.  Just too bad as it was by far the best place we have seen. 

6/4 Vietnamese Post

Mailed my first package from Vietnam today.  No canvas and red wax;(.  Instead I had to fill out four forms detailing the contents.  The post office itself was beautiful with huge high ceilings and numerous kitschy souvenir stalls.  I was in and out in under a half hour.  I sent it "surface" which means it should arrive around January;).

6/3 Toilet Paper

Most of the Pham Ngu Lau restaurants have little rolls of toilet paper in a funky plastic dispenser in lieu of napkins;).  Toothpicks, ketchup, soy sauce and two kinds of chili sauce are the condiments.  More authentic Vietnamese restaurants don't have salt and pepper of course.  And when you sit down you are given a moist towel to clean your hands.  If your lucky it's cold;). 

6/2 Monsoon on a Motorbike

Drove through my first serious monsoon on a motorbike.  After about ten minutes, my eyes started burn.  As a friend on Facebook said: "Acid Rain: the new Eco-chick body scrub". 

6/1 The Search for a Flat Continues

Still no luck.  Everything is too small, narrow and dark.  Looks like we may have to look at flats further out;(.

5/31 Priceless

Saigon Blue - cool leather helmet with little red rhinestones $3, full face and neck mask $2, motorbike for a month $40, gas $2, riding up onto the sidewalk during rush hour traffic... priceless;).

5/30 Weird Warm Rice

Our favorite little old lady gave us a cup full of sweet weird warm rice paste with bland brown little jelly balls.  We sat and smiled gratefully sipping beer to disguise the taste. Even though we tried and tried to hide our disgust, I think she saw through us.  We haven't been given any since:(.

5/29 Little Ones

Started class with the little ones today.  They are all around 6 years old and so painfully shy.  All of my tricks and games failed miserably so I resorted to coloring which was just what they needed.  They will be a challenge but I look forward to it;).

5/28 Power

So the power goes out at least once a week.  As I write this, it's out again and due to be out for at least 8-10 hours. I'm still mystified by all the black electrical wires.  Actually saw a man walking along them yesterday!  It is unclear if they replace defective wires or just add more.  From the looks of it they just add more;).  Last night it rained and for the first time it felt like a monsoon, we were all stuck in a cafe looking with awe and fear out at the the wires swaying in the downpour. 

5/27 Cafes

Just a note about Vietnamese coffee shops to supplement the rocket fuel post.  They are everywhere.  Big beautiful luxurious multi-level coffee restaurants with huge water features and big beautiful trees, small intimate local cafe sua da stops with metal tables and plastic stools, at least five different Starbuck style chains on every other corner downtown (similar in decor and price or should I say over price) and hip little cafes with Sinatra and Buble playing that make me feel like I'm back in the states.  Definitely one of my favorite things about Saigon.

5/26 New Roommate

New room mate today - Sam the cockroach.  Even though he's quiet and tends to keep to himself, he did insist on taking a shower with me this morning.   Considering he hasn't paid the rent, I am gonna have to ask him to move out;).

5/25 HIghrise flats

More flats today but in sterile highrises on a canal that stinks so bad it burns your eyes - smells like a really bad perm.  Needless to say, we will continue looking. 

5/24 Flats

Sacha and I went to look at our first flat today.  Dark, narrow four story house on a windy narrow street with way too many rooms and resident cockroaches.  We've heard it can take up to two months to find "the perfect place".  Hopefully the perfect place doesn't involve cockroaches. 

5/23 Almost got the better of me today

They almost got the better of me today.  I ended up playing one too many games so by break they were wild and crazy.  By the end of class, almost everyone was in the naughty circle ... including me;).

5/22 First Day teaching

Taught my first class of bright and very fluent, if not a little unruly, 10 year olds today.  I'll only have them for about three months two days a week two hours a day.  Ended only getting through about a third of my lesson plan and already learned a lot about what to do and what not to do.  Thank god I have a teachers assistant;). 

5/21 Rocket Fuel

Rocket Fuel (noun) /raketfjel/ a sinister strong iced coffee. or cafe sua da, with condensed milk served at the Dune Cafe in Ho Chi Minh City.  After drinking one can expect to get the shakes, see double and talk too fast for comprehension.  While cafe sua da is the life blood of Vietnam, this particular concoction is deadly and not recommended if you have to teach or operate moving vehicles;). 

5/20 Ice

Huge blocks of ice show up around 6am to sit covered in canvas in front of a narrow shop.  Restaurants buy small blocks broken off with a huge metal comb. Tiger, Heineken and San Miguel beer is stacked to the ceiling leaving a small space for helmets and a stool.  The coolers piled up outside all seem to be empty.  Considering the amount of energy saved in refrigeration, this seems to be a pretty sustainable service;).

5/19 Vietnamese purse

Thought you would enjoy this Mom.
Contents of my Vietnamese purse in order of importance:)

1. Wallet with thousands of dong, hundreds of business cards and always a dry cleaning ticket
2. Netbook
3. Power cord for my Netbook
4. Map of Saigon - already tattered and torn (will be great to share with the kids;))
5. Smashbox lip gloss (grateful everyday for this by the way) and powder
6. Vietnamese phrase book
7. Jump drive
8. Head phones with mic to talk on Skype
9. Bulgari hand lotion - thanks for sharing

4 out of 9 in technology. Interesting to see where our priorities lie;).

5/18 A Hole in the Road

Day one: a little hole in the road appears outside our hotel
Day two: someone sticks a small bushy broom to stop up the hole - in lieu of a hazard sign?
Day three: a conical hat is placed on the broom
Day four: an old bundle of flowers is stuffed around the bottom of the broom
Day five: the hole is now an art piece;)
Day ten: the hole is sadly filled with dirt;(
...so a hole in the road turned into a little temporary communal art piece ... gotta love Saigon;)

5/17 Strange Fruit

Some of the fabulous fruits of Vietnam:
Dragon Fruit (yummy mild ever so slightly sour), Jackfruit (huge strange taste, not my favorite), Mangosteen (definitely my favorite by far tastes like mango with a lychee texture), Hairy Cherries (I'm pretty sure these are lychees), Sour sop (sour;) and very tasty).
....and of course pineapple and papaya everyday!  

5/16 Floating Villages

Floating villages - huge beautiful homes floating above 50,000 catfish.  Houses on stilts. Sturdy monkey bridges. Little girls selling pastries at a mosque.  A huge stucco home just completed with money from Little Saigon in California.  Broken ATMs makes me think of India. Strangely happy to be back in Saigon on busy Bui Vien - almost felt like home;). 

5/15 Floating Markets

Sat and drank iced coffeetea with Tre in a tightly packed outdoor market waiting for the tour group.  Said our goodbyes and we were off to the floating markets.  There were about a hundred big boats selling produce. Lettuce, squash, pineapple, papaya, and various other things I couldn't identify were tied to 10' poles that served as a kind of advertisement.  Drove to a truly amazing temple that was surrounded by ornate cemeteries on Sam mountain at the Cambodian boarder.  After climbing up the stairs, into a cave beyond statues of Buddha, Quan Yin and various other local deities and ancestors, we finally entered a small mirrored room with golden Buddhas.  It was so startling and so very beautiful that it made me cry;).  I spent the night at a corner cafe in a small low lounge chair watching the motorbikes and all the crazy things they manage to fit on to them. 

5/14 Mekong Monkey Bridge

After about 8 hours of driving, a stop at a coconut candy factory, a lacquer factory that employed the disabled and victims of the war, and a boat ride to a bee farm, I was dropped off on the side of the road and put on the back of Tre's motorbike bound for a night at a home stay.  We drove through stunning lush scenery, tiny crooked bridges and even smaller canal paths to his home on a little delta island at the juncture of two canals.  He introduced me to his mother, father, three daughters, grandmother, aunt, and two sisters.  The house was simple, big, and very open. There were lots of very small hammocks on the long wide porch that sat over the canal. We took a walk along the main canal to meet his wife who was working in their bean fields. We reached a small canal that had a few pieces of very small bamboo tied together.  He looked at me, then the bamboo, laughed and said "Monkey Bridge".  I thought and may have said "WHAT??? You want me to cross that?".  I couldn't even see half of it as it was submerged in the water.  I took a deep breath, took off my shoes and slowly awkwardly and half bent over attempted to cross.  About half way, I thought this is not so .... and the bridge broke.  I fell into the canal, sinking into what felt like quicksand terrified of all the crazy creatures and deadly diseases.  Tre helped me out.  I was soaked and covered in mud, but apparently creature and hopefully disease free. .  By the time we reached his wife, we were all laughing.  I helped to water the beans, then we walked over to some rice paddys and watermelon fields.  Observation: the women were the ones who were doing most of the work.  On the way back, Tre fixed the bridge in about three minutes.  I passed safely and quite gracefully - well compared to the first attempt anything would be graceful;). Dinner was the best meal that I have had since I've been here.  Perhaps one of the top 3 in the last 6 months of being abroad.  Tre sat next to me squatting on his chair and guided me as we ate elephant fish, spring rolls, incredible sour green mangos in a dark rich fish broth, rice, and cold cucumber soup. After dinner, we walked down the same path to his mother-in-laws house/cafe.  All the houses were open.  Most families were watching tv.  Most of the main living rooms were sparsely decorated except for large ornate cabinets with ancestral Buddhist shrines  We then sat and had really strong iced coffee.  As soon as we finished half, he poured green tea to top it off!  It was surprisingly refreshing and good. Thanks to that amazing coffeetea, I lay awake for a few hours grateful for the quiet, the food, and even monkey bridges;).

Working in the Land of Motorbikes

I'll update this weekend.  Just needed to get used to my new schedule.  It's really good to be working;).  I have spent a lot of time on the back of xa om's, or motorbikes exploring the city, going to work and looking for flats.  While it is one of my favorite things to do, as each day passes I lose the hope and confidence that I will be able to ride my own.  I am, however, really excited about getting my own helmet;).

Photos from India

I've started to upload some of my pics from India on Facebook.  Some are redundant, fuzzy etc... but there a few great shots;).

5/13 Off to the Mekong Delta

With my CV out and most critical errands taken care of, I'm off to the Mekong Delta for three days.  It's actually cheaper to take a tour than stay in Saigon!  Can't wait to get out of the city.  I'll be visiting floating markets and the Cambodian boarder and will be staying with Vietnamese families for some real authentic cooking.  Stoney, I'll send you some recipes to practice on;).

5/12 Happy Birthday Chance, Stone and Myler!!!

Happy 13th!!! I can't believe you three are teenagers.

Chance, you would love Saigon because:

• There is wifi everywhere!
• Electronics are dirt cheap
• The money is facinating - its plastic;)

Stone, you would love Saigon because:

• All the crazy food.  Every block offers something different.  (I'm taking another cooking class for us next week)
• Really inexpensive and good golf courses

My, you would love Saigon because:

• There are people who walk around with a stack of books 20 high and sell em for a dollar - everywhere;)
• Tailors to make the clothing of your dreams!

But the most important reason you would love Saigon is because your big sis is here;).

Miss you guys more than I can even begin to say.  I'm sending off a package of Vietnamese surprises tomorrow.  Should be there soon. 
Huge love and will try to Skype you tonight.

5/11 Embassy Day

Visited both the Indian and American embassies today.  They couldn't have been more different.  The Indian Embassy was like entering a beautiful estate.  The visa window was small non threatening no line quiet peaceful.  The American Embassy was all barbed wire barricades and security checks. The queue took an hour and they had no information for me.  Ironic really;). Spent the rest of the day on the back of a motorbike actually telling him where to go.  I was shocked I knew my way around.  My superpower was definitely kicking in;).

5/10 Curriculum Vitae

Finished off my Curriculum Vitae (CV) or resume today.  Sacha and I explored some beautiful areas of Saigon but the heat got to us by about 1p despite my lovely red and pink parasol. It's our goal to get used to the heat again as we spent the last month in air conditioned bliss.  Supposedly its going to cool down in a week or so! Went and saw Iron Man on the 13th floor of Diamond Plaza.  The Vietnamese love everything sweet ... including their popcorn;).

5/9 Happy Mothers Day and BDay to David

Almost caught up after begin behind on the blog for almost two weeks;).  It's been nice to have downtime.  However, I am really ready to start working.  Feels good after so long.  Can't wait to find an organization I believe it.  This week I will start the search! 
So happy Mothers Day Mom.  As I said yesterday, I just wish you were here.  But we will celebrate when I see you in December.
David, I hope you had a wonderful day with your family and most importantly that Gail is doing better.  My thoughts, prayers and love are with you guys everyday. 

5/8 Happy Birthday Mom

Happy Birthday Mom.  I wish you were here with me.  I wish we could go to the tailor together and laugh as they take our measurements.  I wish I could show you the parts of Saigon I've come to love and explore those parts I don't yet know.  Mostly, I just wish you were here to talk to.  Love you. 
ps Watched TMZ last night but couldn't find any champagne. 

5/7 Vung Tao

After a late nite and a late morning, a few of us got onto a hydrofoil bound for Vung Tao, a beach town about an hour east of Saigon.  The excitement of my first hydrofoil ride quickly faded as an old dilapidated boat pulled up.  We boarded the beast to find no AC and broken chairs.  We did get to Vung Tao pretty quickly, jumped into the first cab we saw and set off for Daniel's cousin 18th floor apartment.  The apartment was lovely but quite a ways from town.  We all decided to do a bit of exploring.  The little back roads reminded me of the big island of Hawaii. We found a huge resort that felt very communist - more explanation later;).  Then walked around the mammoth complex to finally find the beach.  Ended up walking about four miles to what we though were beach restaurants but ended up being off season and very closed local resorts.  Along the way, we must have seen at least 100 jellyfish (and other unmentionables).  I'm not sure at what point I became so squeamish but every time I saw one I jumped and let out a little scream.  To say the least we were all ready for a good meal and a cold beer.  To put is succinctly, after about two hours of bad restaurants, more walking and many taxis we found a friendly bar with cold beer ... finally. 

5/6 Dinner with the Students

Tonight we were treated to dinner at the most beautiful restaurant that I have yet been to in Saigon. About 10 students and 10 teachers crowded into a private room gratefully with AC around a huge square table.  They ordered plate after plate of traditional food: yummy little molded rice cakes, lots of strange seafood wrapped in big lettuce leaves with basil, the most tender beef on little bruchettas.  The final meal, seafood hot pots, came on portable little burners that immediately turned the room into a sauna.  However, the hot pots were incredible - clams, mussels, prawns, bok choy, and morning glory  in a pot with the most amazing broth. After a few tears and a lot of hugs from the students, we all headed out for another nite of "celebratory" dancing:).

5/5 Bad Hair Day

After we signed off on our porfolio's and had a very brief and empty goodbye with our tutors, we found ourselves milling around the teacher resource room not wanting to leave.  Finally we all reluctantly departed.  Half went karoaking with the students, the other half for celebratory drinks and Sacha and I went for a massage.  We should have gone to karaoke;).  Sacha decided to get her hair done and after three hours of a bottle of bleach, a lot of yelling and no refund we left sore and ready to write some really bad reviews.  Regardless, we met with friends for dinner who didn't even notice the damage;). 

5/4 Fish Bowl II

We all went for Mojitos and Mexican food both of which were fantastic.  The restaurant was on a small little alley off of Bui Vien.  A funeral was being held opposite.  A large picture of the deceased was surrounded by little pulsating rays of neon lights.  Men in white came in and out while other people sat outside.  Lots of incense and bowing.  Lots of flowers and pho.  We all went out and drank out of the famous fish bowl for one of our "last" nights together (our "last" nights ended up going on for about a week;)). 

5/3 Sunny Saigon

To be fair, my impression of Saigon has been very limited.  I have primarily been in the backpacker district of Pham Ngu Lao and at the ILA building for the last 5 weeks.  I'm anxious to explore the city and countryside.  To see the beaches of Mui Ne, the architecture of Hoi An, the rice paddies of Sapa and the Mekong delta.  I'm anxious to hear the different dialects of the north and experience rural living.  Just hope I can fit it all in before the next phase.  Then again, if I decide to stay, I am sure I will have time to see and experience the real Viet Nam;).

5/2 India Blues II

Missing India something fierce today:

• the constant tiny little ceramic cups full of milky sweet tea
• the autorickshaws, cyclerickshaws, and even the taxis
• driving on the wrong side of the road
• the ubiquitous cow
• black sulfurous salt on green guavas
• hearing and trying to speak Hindi (after 5 weeks I still speak it here)
• Punjabi, Bollywood, and classic Hindi music everywhere
• the sweet smells (that cover up the horrid ones;))
• the intensely personal investigations by every Indian you meet 
• eating with my hand
• the trains - especially a lower side berth with a big window
• the food - I even miss hot cornflakes and a hot dog bun with jam
• palaces, temples and forts
• wearing salwar kameez and all my beautiful scarves
• the kids, food, and peace of Dakshinayan;(

Hope this is not too redundant ... just trying to process;)

5/1 Celebration

Celebrations kicked in a bit early today.  Got to hang out with Sacha's honeymooning friends before they left who shared wonderful and hilarious stories of their travels and wedding (the wedding being the former;)). Met a guy who is kite surfing around the world.  Met up with most of our classmates for drinks and dancing.  Sat outside a packed nite club on my favorite little stools next to a beautiful fountain meeting new people, debating, dancing, laughing, and drinking till the wee hours of the morning. I think we finally found Saigon's nite life. Thank god we didn't find it earlier!

4/30 Da Lat Wine

So Vietnam has it's own wine called and from the region Da Lat.  It's inexpensiveness and not bad ... not necessarily good but just fine after a glass or two;).  Sacha and I sat outside one of our favorite restaurants, Dune, chatting and joking with all the waiters as they called in white tourists, watching upper middle class Korean business men secretly entering a clandestine club next door, taking pictures with our favorite old street vendor and wincing as the dried squid seller stopped in front us to sell an unsuspecting tourists some flat stinky fish.  Couldn't ask for a better evening;)

4/29 Last Day teaching

Taught my last class today in front of the assessor.  It went quite well.  I felt strangely flat after wards.  We had a four day weekend ahead of us before our last two days.  Bittersweet.  However, looking forward to job hunting and planning for the next year .... where to go next?;) ... back to India, stay in Saigon, go to Indonesia, Eastern Europe?  The next month will tell ... no matter what I have a feeling its going to be an adventure!

4/28 PJ's

Observation of the day: all the older women and most of the "non-working" younger women seems to wear pj's all the time.  Comfy little cotton pants and shirts with the typical Asian conical hat or helmet of course;).  Pics coming soon ...

4/27 Only one week left

Only one week left and even though I was really stressed, I was also already a bit sad about leaving the course and the friends I had made. I would miss breakfast with Sacha at Dune every morning where
Thinh and Khoi would bring us our tea and eggs with out even asking our order, lunch with everyone on the 10th floor trying to figure out how we were going to get through the week, dinner at the Lam with its huge cheap plates of vegies and fruit -  looks like I am going to mostly miss the meals;).

4/26 Wires

Today was relatively typical so I thought I would share another observation: the wires.  The huge masses of black electrical wires that line every street.  They look like thick black stringy hair hanging about ten feet from the ground.  They mass up at every corner creating a tangled mess that is a great analogy for the chaos but seemless flow that is Saigon.

4/25 Study Study Study

Even though it was a four day weekend, we all were studying studying studying.  Anxiety is running high and we were all so ready for the course to be over and start exploring the city and country side.  Observation for the day: soupy soupy salad.  The Vietnamese love soup and seem to translate this love to salad;). 

4/24 Poolside

Ended up sitting by a posh pool with cozy seats and bad service.  Even got a little work done;).  Tried vainly to get Sacha to go out dancing with me but she persisted.  Thanks to her I stayed in getting good rest for another long day of studying.  Funny observation of the day: at our little 10th floor Saigon Starbucks, there is a small cupboard behind the counter.  Today, it totally took me by surprise when the door opened and one of the girls got out - after what looked like a very refreshing nap;) Wow they sleep everywhere!

4/23 Thai Silk

Shopping therapy today!  Found really inexpensive thai silk today (a third the price of the very cheap silk I bought for my first copy-that promptly fell apart after the first wearing;)).  Three stunning colors.  Sach and I wandered the market some more and went to our regular hang out for lunch.  Joined some other folks for drinks later and went to bed early to get ready for a day of lesson plans and writing. 

4/22 Wallet

Sad news of the day, while we were out celebrating the completion of our third week and the upcoming three day weekend, I lost my wallet.  Quite a bit of money, my card, etc.... But thanks to Sacha, I'll be covered till the new one arrived.  Guess we missed a great night out to all the Saigon clubs.  Once of which is called Apocolypse Now ... of course;).  Sacha and I ended drowning my sorrows at the ex-pat bar and were in bed at a decent hour. 

4/21 Face Masks

Found out today that the face masks (which can cover the neck and shoulders), long elbow length gloves, and thong knee high thong socks the most of the women and some of the men wear on their motorbikes are for sun not smog protection! The masks that come in every color shade and fabric are sold in all the stores and on the streets. It's still really strange to look out into a sea of people mostly covered from head to toe - kind of feels like some kind of epidemic apocalypse and creates a subtle feeling of isolation and seperation.  The obsession with white skin is similar to India - and, from what I've heard - the rest of Asia.  It's very difficult to find lotion that doesn't have bleach or "whitening" cream in it.  While I'm fair and don't mind the "whitening" cream, most of my fellow Western travelers have to search for days to find normal face cream.Don't get me wrong, still starting to love Saigon more and more just had to comment on the strange mask phenomenon.;).

4/20 Early Morning Motorbike

Took a motorbike to observe classes early in the morning.  It had been weeks and I forgot how fun it is to be on the back of a bike smoothly gliding through a million bikes. I even got a good price - only 10,000 dong.  Three weeks ago, I would have probably paid 100,000;).  The facility where we observe is massive.  Mostly catering to young learners and 20 somethings.  Both classes were great.  Dynamic and fast paced.  The CELTA methodology naturally encourages facilitation rather than the old school teacher centric style.  It's a fascinating approach to learning language.  I'm really excited about learning more of the postmodern philosophy behind it. May have to stay on and take the next course to learn more;).

4/19 Resistance

I'm still resisting Saigon.  Resisting its kind vendors, sales people, shop keepers, hotel clerks, ILA staff.  It's fastidiously clean streets and beautiful parks.  It's deeply respectful people and strangely beautiful culture.  It's weird opera and funny pop music.  It's bouncy and argumentative language.  Still resisting its generosity.  One thing is for sure though, I have not resisted its cheap and abundant pedicures;).  The pho and motorbikes do make me smile.  And the skyline at night is stunningly clear and beautiful.  Maybe the resistance is waning ... maybe phase four of culture shock has arrived;).

4/18 Grandma Brown

"Live your life, love your life, and let your critics be damned".  My Grandma Brown wrote this in a book that she handed down to me quite a few years ago.  It describes her and inspires me.  She has always had the right words at the right time.  Always given me the advice that I need to hear ... even if I wasn't listening.  Gentle, kind and persistent.  A grandmother but also a friend. My favorite is my blog quote, "Live your life as though when your feet hit the floor every morning Satan shudders and says, "Oh &#$% she's awake".  I only hope I can make him shudder like she does;). 

4/17 Phenomically Speaking

As I write this, there is a a full blown Vietnamese variety show happening in the park opposite my cafe. It's a mixture of opera, communist national songs and strange pop ballads. The street is packed with the usual million motorbikes, book sellers (they walk around with a stack of 20 books high), back backing tourists, dried fish vendors, pastel tour buses, and my favorite tiny plastic stools. The rain has not come yet, but it will ... soon.  I guess it brings the rats and cockroaches (bigger than my little poodle friend I saw the other day).  We all spent the day trying desperately to decipher the phonemic alphabet for one of our assignments.  Can't wait to share what I've learned with the triplets.  Definitely an entertaining day.  Spent the night at an ex-pat bar meeting young volunteers and jaded teachers.  Learned a lot to say the least;).

One more day!

Just one more day of CELTA craziness. Posts should be updated by this weekend;)  with pics hopefully!

ps Grandma the next ones for you;)

4/16 Deb

This post is for my Aunt Deb.  While I was remiss in mentioning her in my "I miss" post, I have to say that I have missed her for longer than I've been away.  She helped to raise me.  Was a teacher.  Taught me how to eat peaches and make really good grilled cheese sandwiches.  Was my confidant. And is one of the best writers I know.  Has a brilliant dry sense of humor that I wish was in my life everyday.  Deb, I miss you and wish with all my heart that we can walk and laugh together on the streets of Saigon, Kolkata or even Kathmandu someday very soon;). Love you.

4/15 Potato clock

Phonemically speaking these two sentences are the same.  Just say them quickly one after another;):

• I get up at eight o'clock.
• I get a potato clock.

Thanks to Ian, our phonology workshops are, to say the least, engaging;). 

3/14 Familiar Chickens

Started to fall into a comfortable routine.  Run in the morning, Dune cafe for breakfast with Sacha, stress a little about teaching (perfectly), teach or observe, lunch with computer and books on and open, workshops in the afternoon, stress a little about planning every lesson (perfectly), dinner at Lam, write (not so perfectly) and finally sleep.  Faces, shops, a million motorbikes, students, conversations, food, and chickens, of course, are all starting to become familiar;).

3/13 Lunch with Thanh

Today I had lunch with Thanh, a confident, genuine, open but slightly overbearing student.  She asked me to edit some of here writings.   We sat and ate overpriced mediocre food on the 10th floor of the ILA building (where I go for tea and an omelet everyday - not overpriced and very tasty;)) while I fought the urge to get back to my studies.  She eagerly invited me to dinner but I had to decline until after the course is over.  I am, however, really excited to eat at her favorite local spot and shop with an expert.  Hopefully, I'll be able to pick up some fun and "local priced" gifts for everyone at home;).  I hate to be redundant but India is in my thoughts everyday .... still waiting for stage three of culture shock! Hindustan dil me hai .....
ps the cockroaches are coming.  Just saw one the size of a small poodle.

4/12 A Little India in Saigon

Observed a new level of students today.  It's interesting to switch levels so quickly.  Each level has its own set of challenges.  These students because they are more fluent are much more demanding.  It makes the class dynamic and fast with lots of dialogue - they really need to speak.  It was a lot of fun to watch and will hopefully be even more fun to teach;).  Finally found a little Indian oasis with Bollywood music, good palak paneer and great masala chai.  Stayed in Hindi bliss studying, researching and writing until they very nearly had to kick me out.

4/11 Badmintton in the Park

Sacha and I finally got to play Badminton today.  We gave up after about 15 minutes as we were surrounded by what seemed to be the Vietnamese Olympic Badminton team.  We have decided to practice in private before we go back to the park;).  Skyped way to briefly with the family.  Studied, wrote and planned for about ten hours and don't really even remember going to bed.

4/10 An Honest Tailor

Despite feeling a little foggy due to a late nite, the morning was fantastic.  I found an honest, professional, inexpensive and fast tailor.  They made two dress shirts and a copy of a beautiful silk shirt I found in India for less than $30.  Shopped for groceries in my favorite outdoor market and even got some studying done.  ... Still haven't found any good shoes though;)  but I still have hope!

4/9 Happy Friday

Strange but great to have what felt like a real work week after so long.  I taught well and even enjoyed it.  Got an above standard which made my day.  It was however a 16 hour day after teacher observations in the evening.  But we all headed out for a drink and dinner even though we were exhausted.  We definitely needed to download and process everything.  Ended up not getting home until the wee hours of the morning, but it was worth it.  We all had a great time and shared some great stories. 

4/8 I miss ...

I miss ...

• Dealing with small bills (the Vietnamese dong is 19,000 to the dollar and all the bills look alike.  It literally took me three weeks to get used to paying for stuff. ie dinner costs 100,000 dong.  My hotel for ten days cost 2,000,000.  Crazy! oh and they are really slippery and slick - so just forget it if you get them wet;) - they are pretty though.)
• MAC, Bobby Brown and Smashbox 
• Honest cab drivers
• Am I really saying this?- American malls
• Fancy hair products
• my Mom;) - so miss being able to talk to you when ever I want and staying up to watch TMZ
• Chance - our technology Sundays and just hangin
• Stone - cooking together and watching you golf
• My - your laugh and our talks
• David - ahh the guiness fairy and your BBQ'n
• Nana - looking at pictures together and wine tasting nite
• My Echo ladies - there's too much and too many to start;)  but I miss our Sundays to put it way too briefly!
• Floss and Scott - our dinners together
• My Soph:(
• and last but not least good red wine!

4/7 Culture Shivers

Since today was relatively uneventful, I thought 'd share a little about my experience with culture shock.  In my case, its more like the shivers:).

Here's an excerpt from Wikipedia.  My experience is in brackets:

Culture Shock:
The process of cultural adjustment, which is also known as the U-shaped curve of cultural adjustment, encompasses five distinct stages:

• Stage 1: The feeling of excitement and eagerness. This stage occurs before leaving to go to the new culture. [just ask my friends/family.  Thanks for your patience by the way;)]
• Stage 2: The feeling that everything in the new culture is great. This stage occurs upon arrival to the new culture. [yes.  EVERYTHING was incredible.  I was in a constant state of awe]
• Stage 3: The feeling of everything in the new culture is terrible. [In the case of Saigon, everything is just "not as good as India"]
• Stage 4: The feeling of adjustment. The stage where the visitor begins to feel comfortable and takes steps to become more familiar with the culture. {I'm waiting for this stage ... hope it happens soon...]
• Stage 5: The feeling that everything is fine. The stage where the visitor has adapted to the culture and in some ways is embracing it as their own. [see above]

There are many symptoms of transition shock, some which include:

• feelings of helplessness and withdrawal [;( just a little]
• irritability [oh yeah, many apologies to my fellow classmates]
• glazed stare [definitely]
• desire for home and old friends [see below]
• physiological stress reactions [oh yeah]
• homesickness [more like friend/familysickness]
• boredom [yep]
• getting "stuck" on one thing  [and then when I was in India ....another apology to my fellow classmates;)]
• compulsive eating/drinking/weight gain [well we did go out a few times BEFORE the course began;)]
• stereotyping host nationals [no comment]

^{And for my friends and family, beware;)}

• Reverse Culture Shock (a.k.a. Re-entry Shock, or own culture shock^[7]) may take place — returning to one's home culture after growing accustomed to a new one can produce the same effects as described above. This results from the psychosomatic and psychological consequences of the readjustment process to the primary culture.^[8] The affected person often finds this more surprising and difficult to deal with than the original culture shock.