4/17 Phenomically Speaking

As I write this, there is a a full blown Vietnamese variety show happening in the park opposite my cafe. It's a mixture of opera, communist national songs and strange pop ballads. The street is packed with the usual million motorbikes, book sellers (they walk around with a stack of 20 books high), back backing tourists, dried fish vendors, pastel tour buses, and my favorite tiny plastic stools. The rain has not come yet, but it will ... soon.  I guess it brings the rats and cockroaches (bigger than my little poodle friend I saw the other day).  We all spent the day trying desperately to decipher the phonemic alphabet for one of our assignments.  Can't wait to share what I've learned with the triplets.  Definitely an entertaining day.  Spent the night at an ex-pat bar meeting young volunteers and jaded teachers.  Learned a lot to say the least;).

One more day!

Just one more day of CELTA craziness. Posts should be updated by this weekend;)  with pics hopefully!

ps Grandma the next ones for you;)

4/16 Deb

This post is for my Aunt Deb.  While I was remiss in mentioning her in my "I miss" post, I have to say that I have missed her for longer than I've been away.  She helped to raise me.  Was a teacher.  Taught me how to eat peaches and make really good grilled cheese sandwiches.  Was my confidant. And is one of the best writers I know.  Has a brilliant dry sense of humor that I wish was in my life everyday.  Deb, I miss you and wish with all my heart that we can walk and laugh together on the streets of Saigon, Kolkata or even Kathmandu someday very soon;). Love you.

4/15 Potato clock

Phonemically speaking these two sentences are the same.  Just say them quickly one after another;):

• I get up at eight o'clock.
• I get a potato clock.

Thanks to Ian, our phonology workshops are, to say the least, engaging;). 

3/14 Familiar Chickens

Started to fall into a comfortable routine.  Run in the morning, Dune cafe for breakfast with Sacha, stress a little about teaching (perfectly), teach or observe, lunch with computer and books on and open, workshops in the afternoon, stress a little about planning every lesson (perfectly), dinner at Lam, write (not so perfectly) and finally sleep.  Faces, shops, a million motorbikes, students, conversations, food, and chickens, of course, are all starting to become familiar;).

3/13 Lunch with Thanh

Today I had lunch with Thanh, a confident, genuine, open but slightly overbearing student.  She asked me to edit some of here writings.   We sat and ate overpriced mediocre food on the 10th floor of the ILA building (where I go for tea and an omelet everyday - not overpriced and very tasty;)) while I fought the urge to get back to my studies.  She eagerly invited me to dinner but I had to decline until after the course is over.  I am, however, really excited to eat at her favorite local spot and shop with an expert.  Hopefully, I'll be able to pick up some fun and "local priced" gifts for everyone at home;).  I hate to be redundant but India is in my thoughts everyday .... still waiting for stage three of culture shock! Hindustan dil me hai .....
ps the cockroaches are coming.  Just saw one the size of a small poodle.

4/12 A Little India in Saigon

Observed a new level of students today.  It's interesting to switch levels so quickly.  Each level has its own set of challenges.  These students because they are more fluent are much more demanding.  It makes the class dynamic and fast with lots of dialogue - they really need to speak.  It was a lot of fun to watch and will hopefully be even more fun to teach;).  Finally found a little Indian oasis with Bollywood music, good palak paneer and great masala chai.  Stayed in Hindi bliss studying, researching and writing until they very nearly had to kick me out.

4/11 Badmintton in the Park

Sacha and I finally got to play Badminton today.  We gave up after about 15 minutes as we were surrounded by what seemed to be the Vietnamese Olympic Badminton team.  We have decided to practice in private before we go back to the park;).  Skyped way to briefly with the family.  Studied, wrote and planned for about ten hours and don't really even remember going to bed.

4/10 An Honest Tailor

Despite feeling a little foggy due to a late nite, the morning was fantastic.  I found an honest, professional, inexpensive and fast tailor.  They made two dress shirts and a copy of a beautiful silk shirt I found in India for less than $30.  Shopped for groceries in my favorite outdoor market and even got some studying done.  ... Still haven't found any good shoes though;)  but I still have hope!

4/9 Happy Friday

Strange but great to have what felt like a real work week after so long.  I taught well and even enjoyed it.  Got an above standard which made my day.  It was however a 16 hour day after teacher observations in the evening.  But we all headed out for a drink and dinner even though we were exhausted.  We definitely needed to download and process everything.  Ended up not getting home until the wee hours of the morning, but it was worth it.  We all had a great time and shared some great stories. 

4/8 I miss ...

I miss ...

• Dealing with small bills (the Vietnamese dong is 19,000 to the dollar and all the bills look alike.  It literally took me three weeks to get used to paying for stuff. ie dinner costs 100,000 dong.  My hotel for ten days cost 2,000,000.  Crazy! oh and they are really slippery and slick - so just forget it if you get them wet;) - they are pretty though.)
• MAC, Bobby Brown and Smashbox 
• Honest cab drivers
• Am I really saying this?- American malls
• Fancy hair products
• my Mom;) - so miss being able to talk to you when ever I want and staying up to watch TMZ
• Chance - our technology Sundays and just hangin
• Stone - cooking together and watching you golf
• My - your laugh and our talks
• David - ahh the guiness fairy and your BBQ'n
• Nana - looking at pictures together and wine tasting nite
• My Echo ladies - there's too much and too many to start;)  but I miss our Sundays to put it way too briefly!
• Floss and Scott - our dinners together
• My Soph:(
• and last but not least good red wine!

4/7 Culture Shivers

Since today was relatively uneventful, I thought 'd share a little about my experience with culture shock.  In my case, its more like the shivers:).

Here's an excerpt from Wikipedia.  My experience is in brackets:

Culture Shock:
The process of cultural adjustment, which is also known as the U-shaped curve of cultural adjustment, encompasses five distinct stages:

• Stage 1: The feeling of excitement and eagerness. This stage occurs before leaving to go to the new culture. [just ask my friends/family.  Thanks for your patience by the way;)]
• Stage 2: The feeling that everything in the new culture is great. This stage occurs upon arrival to the new culture. [yes.  EVERYTHING was incredible.  I was in a constant state of awe]
• Stage 3: The feeling of everything in the new culture is terrible. [In the case of Saigon, everything is just "not as good as India"]
• Stage 4: The feeling of adjustment. The stage where the visitor begins to feel comfortable and takes steps to become more familiar with the culture. {I'm waiting for this stage ... hope it happens soon...]
• Stage 5: The feeling that everything is fine. The stage where the visitor has adapted to the culture and in some ways is embracing it as their own. [see above]

There are many symptoms of transition shock, some which include:

• feelings of helplessness and withdrawal [;( just a little]
• irritability [oh yeah, many apologies to my fellow classmates]
• glazed stare [definitely]
• desire for home and old friends [see below]
• physiological stress reactions [oh yeah]
• homesickness [more like friend/familysickness]
• boredom [yep]
• getting "stuck" on one thing  [and then when I was in India ....another apology to my fellow classmates;)]
• compulsive eating/drinking/weight gain [well we did go out a few times BEFORE the course began;)]
• stereotyping host nationals [no comment]

^{And for my friends and family, beware;)}

• Reverse Culture Shock (a.k.a. Re-entry Shock, or own culture shock^[7]) may take place — returning to one's home culture after growing accustomed to a new one can produce the same effects as described above. This results from the psychosomatic and psychological consequences of the readjustment process to the primary culture.^[8] The affected person often finds this more surprising and difficult to deal with than the original culture shock.

4/6 Nervous

Just one word ... nerves.  Wow.  Very nervous.  But the students are great of course.  They are pretty fearless and open.  Our tutor, Ian, is a sardonic and very succinct Brit - helps to lighten the mood and relieve some of the pressure and stress.  Since the school is 70% young learners we all teach in classrooms painted with Mickey Mouse, Mini, Donald Duck.  Crafty smiley suns, moons and little animals made out of straw hang from the ceiling.  Kind of strange setting as we are technically teaching adults.  The afternoons are spent in workshops and planning for subsequent lessons.  Stayed late planning. Went for dinner with some other students at a pub.  It's run by an Ex-Pat whose best story was about a recent trip back home to Baltimore where he just instinctively walked out into traffic.  Keep in mind here in Saigon, you have to just go for it - crosswalks and lights don't really matter.  The motorbikes and cars (for the most part) respect your confidence and just gently smoothly weave around you.  You can successfully cross a four lane road packed with bikes just by inching your way across the street.  But he completely forgot and attempted to cross a very busy street with all of those massive SUV's that I miss so much ... at rush hour.  Stopped himself midstep saying, "@$%^ This is definitely not Saigon." I will have to tell my family as soon as I go home in Dec ... "Please don't let me walk into rush hour traffic;)"

4/5 First day of class

First day of class was good - demanding, rigorous, entertaining.  Looks like it's going to be a fast furious and full four weeks:)  We start teaching tomorrow and even though I usually have no problem speaking in front of people, I was very nervous.  This will fade, but right now it's a little distracting;). We have a range of experience, age and background in class and everyone seems to be very supportive and collaborative.  So far so good.  Can't wait to see how I feel in four weeks:). 

4/4 Chillin

We all decided to just chill today as the course starts tomorrow and all free time, or any time for that matter, will be gone.  I hung out in the Vietnamese Starbucks reflecting on the last month of crazy wonderful travel.  Still amazed at all the things I saw, experienced, ate, did.  At all the people I met. At all the rickshaws, autorickshaws, cylerickshaws, motorbikes, trains, tiny taxis, buses and camels I used to get around. At all the palaces, dunes, spice jungles, backwaters, forts, rooftops and temples I had visited. At all the rice, daal, chana masala, palak, fish tikka, and cornflakes;) I had eaten.  At all the masala chai that I had drank.  At all the festivals, dances, sacred moments and generosity I had experienced.  Just amazed ... and so grateful;).

4/3 Party

Khoi, a fellow Vietnamese classmate, took Sacha and I shopping today.  We walked by the department of defense.  Daunting, strangely serene, totally unmarked and massive.  He led us around to different shops while we desperately tried to find shoes that fit us (another theme - finding good shoes;)).  Sacha, Khoi, Andrew and I met for a drink then went to the CELTA kick off dinner at a BBQ garden.  It was beautiful.  Huge trees with low hanging branches laced with hundreds of tiny white lights.  We sat next to a Vietnamese birthday party ... one two three yo (or cheers) every five minutes.  The food was phenomenal.  Little flat BBQ's built into the tables cooked vegetables, meat, prawns, squid and lots of it.  The food just kept coming.  After we had drinks at a pub closer to home, Sacha and I wandered back to our quiet alley and fell asleep ... excited and just a little anxious about what lie ahead.

4/2 Walk in the Park

Sacha and I woke up at 5:30 for our first walk in the park.  I thought it was going to be hot and quiet.  Instead, it was bearable and packed.  Packed full of runners, joggers, walkers, dancers.  Packed full of people doing Tai Chi, aerobics to blaring pop music, yoga, a form of hacky sack, exercises on various equipment built into the park.  And lots of Badminton.  It was fantastic.  We left determined to get our own badminton rackets.  Found a little sports store and purchased them for just fifty cents;).  Definitely a good day!

4/1 Two Hands

Things I love about Saigon:

• The Vietnamese always give and take with both hands-a very sincere and endearing gesture.
• The traffic.  Crazy, I know, but it's just so easy and nonthreatening to cross the street once you get the hang of it.  One of my goals is to take a picture standing in the middle of the road surrounded by hundreds of bikes..  
• The tailors!  They can make anything fast and cheap.  It's a dream come true.
• Wifi is everywhere.  
• Quiet Alleys.  My hotel room has a beautiful view of a serene bonsai garden.   Who would have known you can find such peace in a city of 8 million!
• And of course pho and the river;).

3/31 Creepy Crawly Creatures

The next few post will likely be short as I'm trying to catch up.  With 14 hour days at ILA,  running in the morning, and trying to fit in meals, there really isn't time for much else;).  However, it's really good to be so busy. 
Today was a very lazy day as Sacha and I stayed up late drinking, talking and bonding.  I feel really grateful to have already met such great people taking the course.  I'm sure we will need each other over the next month and a half!  I did go to the outdoor market.  Wandered mostly in awe of all the creepy crawly creatures, frogs, crabs, catfish ... huge mounds of snails.  Little neatly tried plastic bags full of coconut juice and fruit.

3/30 The River!

Sacha, Andrew and I walked through parks full of those same tall graceful trees.  There were also fantastic topiaries of dragons and tigers.  We wandered around the National museum for a bit.  Then, and I still can't believe it, we found the river;).  I got so excited that I ran to a restaurant jutting out into the river. It had a spectacular view of the opposite bank which was lush and crowded with fishing boats and ferries.  We sat for hours on the water watching all kinds of strange things float by - helmets, motorcycle tires, parts of a sink.  It was difficult to leave but at least I know where it is now ... I just hope I can find it;).

3/29 Graceful Trees

Sacha and I stopped by the school for a tour today.  Then with a little direction from a local, set out on a mission for clothes.  Not so easy in a city of smaller women.  We walked and walked ... and walked.  Found a street lined with extremely tall graceful trees that towered over the buildings.  My new favorite avenue.  Found furniture stores (with their own chickens of course), motorcycle dealers, and glossy doughnut shops but no clothing stores for the "Western" woman.  Stopped and sat on  little stools for a pho and got hit by a heat so heavy I almost felt sick.  But all it took was a shower and beer to feel right again.
ps was still not able to find the river

3/28 Secret Rooftop

Observation of the last few days - in the markets the young women usually just take a nap in their stall which is, at most, 4' wide and 4' deep.  Mind you there is always someone to sell you something and always at a cheaper price ... just for you.  Meet up with two future classmates in the evening for a few beers.  We around Bui Vien in the Backpacker district.  Found a decent restaurant.  Climbed up the dark stairs through what seemed to be a living room, then another area of the restaurant and still up another dark set of stairs to a quiet vacant rooftop.  They turned on the Chinese lanterns and gave us our very own waiter.  The conversation was easy, the beers were numerous, and the secret views into apartments were straight out of a Hitchcock movie only in Saigon;).

3/27 Little dogs

Walked and walked some more today.  I'm fascinated by the lack of dogs.  Maybe they are just all so small I just don't see them.  But then compared to India, most countries would be lacking.  There are however roosters and chickens everywhere.  I have some great pics to share with my friend Tracy in Denver;).  Still no river today but I have hope.  Another market visit for a kettle and pho on a little stool.  I'm growing to really like the little stools.  I may look really silly but they are space efficient. I drank my cafe su da staring at all manners of animal parts half fascinated half disgusted.  The smell of beef is really heavy and thick in the markets. My rooster and I sat and watched the tourists, touts and dried fish sellers for dinner.  It is  really disturbing to see so many older white men with young Vietnamese women on their arm.  But it rained fast and furious clearing the streets and I loved it.

3/26 Is there really a river?

After a pretty successful if not rushed interview with ILA's CELTA program,  I walked again determined to find the river.  Found bookshops full of English teaching books, grocery stores full of chewing gum and dairy products, small department stores for small people, fabulous gardens, immaculate streets, hidden markets, more manicured parks, but no river;).  Regardless it was a wonderful if not brutally hot walk.  By the time I got back to my favorite table, and time challenged rooster, I was ready for pho and bed.  

3/25 Nyoung and the Market

I was roped into a motorcycle ride to the market today.   Nyoung, a 49 year old man with two kids and book full of passport photos and references, drove me what must of been half a kilometer. He then took my arm and walked me across a six lane very daunting round-a-bout.  It was a bit strange and uncomfortable but really just funny.  We walked through the enclosed tightly packed clean and very organized market - mostly clothes, strange food, knock off perfume, jewelry, and shoes.  He sat me down on a little plastic stool designed for a two year old.  A pushy but smiley girl manically pulled out shoe after shoe shoving them on to my feet.  I was sick of walking on overpriced cardboard.  These seemed to have a little cushion.  Bargained a bit.  Then Nyoung took my arm again and led me back through the bikes insisting on a city tour.  I decided I wanted to wander the market alone.  Gave him a few thousand Dong and braved the round-a-bout alone. 

3/24 Application

Felt relatively normal today except for feeling bruised and battered.  Worked on the CELTA application for four hours -  I thought it would only take twenty minutes. Walked around the park and city a bit trying to find the Saigon River but it kept eluding me.  Found some lovely little streets lined with huge old trees and tons of cafes.  Wifi is everywhere you go, but, more importantly, pedicures are everywhere.  You can get a pedicure in the park, in the market, in a hotel lobby, on the street ... anywhere.  Interesting to see the priorities of a place and its people;).

3/23 Pho for Breakfast

Had a fantastic pho for breakfast.  Really hot big bowl of noodle soup served with a mound of basil, dandelion greens, chili's, bean sprouts and limes.  It's one of my favorite smells in the world.  Mostly basil and lime but still unique.  Sadly got really sick again and still felt really beat up so the day was spent resting and watching the people below. 

3/22 Moved by Motorbike

Still sick today but moved to another less expensive hotel with a view of a park.  I was loaded onto a small bike with my huge pack and a very small driver. Given a helmet but was a little disappointed that I didn't get a face mask.  We drove through the streets mid-day mass traffic.  Great way to see the city.   Still felt very safe and was actually comforted when we drove on the sidewalks and went against traffic.  At dinner, I had a rooster under my table that kept insisting that it was dawn;).

3/21 Crazy Timezones

Arrived at Kuala Lumpur sometime in the early morning.  This has got to be one of the best airports in the world.  All the amenities including great recliners to rest on.  My plane to Ho Chi Minh City was full and packed with tourists.  Older white couples.  Sat next to a lovely Aussie couple who were going to do the Battle Tour of Vietnam.  He had been in the war and she was a world traveler.  We had so much to talk about that the  two hour flight seemed to only take about 20 minues.  By the time I got my visa and bag, I was feeling really worn down exhausted cranky.  The lines to get through customs were long and slow.  It took me two hours to get out of the airport.  I was feeling quite sick by this time.  The first thing that hit me about Vietnam was the shininess.  It is like a new toy.  Then the bikes.  Then the millions of little shiny new motorcycle scooter hybrids with helmuts and face masks.  The traffic is phenomenal - its instant immediate in your face but somehow gentle and polite.  The buildings are all small with drastic changes in scale but it still feels small like a little pastel toy land.  I ended up splurging on a nicer hotel cause I was really sick by this time.  I spent the rest of the day in my room in really bad shape.  So much so that the next day I would feel like I had been beaten up.  Regardless, its good to finally be here. 

3/20 8 ways to travel

Autorickshaw at 5:45am to the train station.  3 hour train to Delhi.  6 hours in Delhi and I loved it.  I had left in December with such a bad impression.  Now it's great - it of course feels smaller, less threatening and much easier to walk.  After skyping and taking care of a little business, I took a taxi to the airport.  Talked as much Hindi as I knew to the driver.  3 hour plane ride to Chennai.  Arrived around  9p.  Didn't have much time to be sad about leaving as I only had a two hour layover.  As the plane took off for Kuala Lumpur, I refused to say goodbye;).