3/19 Last day in India ... for now at least

I spent the day trying to not think about leaving.  Had lunch with Ardaman.  Walked around drinking too much tea and eating all the fresh fruit I could find.  We listened to Punjabi music and I still tried to not think about leaving;).  My unofficial last day in Chandigarh.  Took a long cycle rickshaw ride to parts of the city that I had not yet been.  It's just so beautiful.  So incredibly unique in India.  There are no buildings over 6 stories.  Even though the streets and markets are wide, it still feels intimate and accessible.  People are always crowding the streets but never once did I get the "oceans of humanity" feeling.   Stayed up really late talking about TED, movies, and what to do next.   Went to sleep still trying to not think about leaving ...

3/18 Indian Parcel Post

Today was my second visit to an Indian post office.  First was in Kerela mid February.  As I write this, all 3 of the packages I've sent home have reached their destinations with all of their original contents.  I'm still amazed.  Each visit took about three hours.  Once you get the form to fill out, you then have to take your package to a tailor.  They wrap it in thin canvas, sew the entire package up and seal it with red wax.  The finished product is straight out of the 40's.  Even though I sent some great little gifts to my family, it was the packaging that they can't stop talking about;).  Gotta luv it.   

3/17 Finally a Rooftop

Had to have my fancy Kashmiri Shoes repaired today.  Those shoes that were made so well fell apart in about two weeks.  Regardless, even with the staples the street cobbler put in the side arches, they still look great and now they are incredibly strong;).  Walked primarily around the center of Sector 17, the main market area.  Still so strange not having every person on the street invite you in for tea.  No tourists and no staring.  Awesome.  I felt like I could just fit it.  I felt safe and comfortable.  But most importantly after days of searching, I finally found a rooftop restaurant and with a thriving green roof.  The floor was all soft real green grass.  It would have been a dream come true except there was no internet;).

3/16 Rock Gardens

Visited Nek Chand's Rock Garden today.  Here's a little Wikipedia excerpt:  "The Rock Garden project was secretly initiated by Nek Chand around 1957. It was discovered by the authorities in 1975, by which time it had grown into a 12-acre (49,000 m²) complex of interlinked courtyards, each filled with hundreds of pottery-covered concrete sculptures of dancers, musicians, and animals. The authorities took over, and the garden was inaugurated as a public space in 1976."  Like the rest of Chandigarh, the garden shattered my expectations.  I was expecting some cute little folksy pottery sculptures and a waterfall.  After four hours of wandering, I discovered it was so much more.  Everything is constructed out of recycled materials.  It is now over 40 acres.  There are small tiny spaces that you have to bend over to get into or through and huge mammoth spaces that make you feel really small.  Waterfalls that make you stop dead in your tracks.  Big Swing sets.  More pics to come ... downloading is slow as usual.

3/15 Ruby Tuesday's are you serious?

Ardaman took me for a drive around Chandigarh today. We saw the University, a new IT complex with fantastic architecture and tons of development. The streets are beautiful, quiet and calm.  The traffic moves seamlessly. Roundabouts everywhere. Gardens and parks everywhere. We went for lunch ... at Ruby Tuesdays.  I couldn't help but laugh.  It was totally bizarre.  American paraphernalia all over the walls, happy hour and a soupy Ceasar salad. I think that was the only time I actually enjoyed a restaurant chain.  We walked out of a way too serious movie, Kartik calling Kartik.  Too bad because I really like Farhan Ahktar.  We drove around for the rest of the day.  The city has not exceeded my expectation but shattered them.  It's just so different than what I thought it would be. There are no plastic bags in site.  Every store gives you a little fabric bag.  It's totally smoke free.  There are a million trees. However, I hadn't yet seen this many cars or parking lots in India.  Come to think of it, I don't think I had seen any parking lots. The old cars are small and the new ones are big ... mini SUVs that is.  Middle class India - India real time;).

3/14 Indian Modernism with a Swiss Twist

I woke up to a sleepy Sunday crowd wandering around the center of Sector 17 below my balcony. Sat and people watched while I had breakfast.  Then checked out, determined to find a better cheaper hotel.  After another two hours, I found a lovely room with a view of a busy round-a-bout.  Despite the intricate planning of Mr. Le Corbusier, the Swiss Architect that designed the city,  I had and would continue to have a hard time finding my way around and I never found north (which, if you know me, drives me crazy).  Every block, or Sector, looks the same.  It's still an incredible feet of civil planning.  It feels like an entirely different India - maybe India real time;). The streets are wide and clean.  I only saw two cows.  The tourists are again nowhere to be seen.  I was, however, comforted by the chai wallahs, fresh fruit and food vendors and out of service ATM's.  By the time I actually checked in, I was ready to spend some time emailing and catching up on the blog.  I watched a few Amir Khan movies and got some much needed sleep.

3/13 Temple Tea and A Night on the Dance Floor

Lois and I took a very rushed tour of the temple in the morning. Oceans of Humanity yet again so our visit was limited.  But as she was to come back to see the temple the next morning, I took her to the massive kitchens and tea house that feed thousands of people everyday ... for free and staffed completely by Sikh volunteers.  I made my bus by seconds and got to watch two Bollywood movies on the way to Chandigarh - India's progressive and modernist capitol. I arrived late. My poor cycle rickshaw had to lug me and my pack all over the city before we actually found an open and way overpriced room.  However, Ardaman and I went for drinks on a rooftop and dancing at a local club - something I had been waiting for since Pondicherry.  Despite the exhaustion, I got a few good dances in thinking of the girls back in Denver;).

3/12 Indian Hair Stylin

Ardaman had to get back to work in Chandigarh in the morning, so I wandered the streets a bit and decided to get my hair done.  Never have I had such hair stylin luck in America.  It's official this is one country that knows how to work with curly fussy hair;). However, the highlight of the day was meeting Lois, an older Brit woman traveling alone.  We stayed up way to late talking about politics, feminism, our really bad hotel and the horror of getting ripped off by auto after auto.  After a few beers, I went to bed realizing that women really have come a long way;).

3/11 Bollywood and the Heart of God

We were off to a midday movie at the local mall.  Turns out we were the first official visitors.  As we sat at Cafe Coffee Day, India's Starbucks, a group of PR guys came over and video taped us.  No free gifts though;).  We totally should have worked that one.  The movie, 3 Idiots, was definitely one of the best Bollywood movies I've seen.  I have officially reordered my favorite actor list - Amir Khan is now number one.  Sorry Hrithik.  We then took a long rickshaw ride through a local and, what seemed to be, upper-middle class neighborhood.  It was beautiful and tranquil with modern architecture.  After snacks and some internet time, we walked a few kilometers to the Golden Temple.  There were no tourists or hawkers in site.   It was really nice to walk the streets without getting bothered ... maybe starred at but not bothered. I have been debating whether or not to try and explain the Golden Temple.  But I guess I will try.  I was lucky enough to visit with Ardaman, who is Sikh, so got the insiders tour.  We arrived after sunset and the temple just glowed.  It was more powerful than the Taj, but in a different way of course.  We walked clockwise around the water tank that surrounds the Temple.  It wasn't until we were sitting on the small lamp post lined walkway in front of the temple, that it hit me.  This is where I hate to even put the experience into words and saying anything almost seems to trivialize it.  But I felt like I was walking into the Heart of God.  Maybe this is good for now ... maybe more later;) One thing is for sure, and I know I've said this before, I am grateful for this experience and humbled by India everyday.

Shiny Toys

Saigon ... like a shiny new toy.  There are 15 million motorcycle-scooter hybrids.  They all come with helmets, face masks, and only one rider (as opposed to a family of five or load the size of an elephant;)).  Lots of loud large chickens.  No trash.  Older white people everywhere.  And everyone has a bright genuine smile.  I'll be catching up over the next few days just wanted to share my first impressions;).

In Transit

I'm in transit to Vietnam and will hopefully be able to catch up in the next two days.  My last ten days in Chandigarh were wonderful:).  A totally different experience than the rest of India ....

3/10 Pedicures can do miracles;)

Having spent a few hours in a musty room in Jallunder and almost missing my train, I finally arrived.  While trying to get off the train, a kind older and very short Sikh gentleman insisted on carrying my pack, waiting with me till I found a decent culi, and then walked with us to my hotel. Punjabi Chivalry;) After a much needed pedicure, I headed back to my hotel to meet a friend, Ardaman, from Chandigarh for dinner and a few drinks. We stayed up late in the relatively quiet garden restaurant feeding the cats, talking about Punjabi's, 21st century India and scorpions. It was a really long day of traveling but ended quite sweetly.  I have a feeling the Punjab may be better than Rajasthan;).

3/9 The long road to Amritsar

I had debated yesterday whether or not to make the trek to Amritsar.  After the excitement of the scorpion safari, I just didn't know if I was up to a rickshaw, bus, rickshaw, layover, train, layover, train and another rickshaw;).  But after meeting a larger than life older Israeli man who insisted that go, I booked my travel.  So early in the morning, I found myself chatting with a bunch of locals drinking tea waiting to board a totally substandard bus.  I read my Hindi book and got lost in the scenery but by hour seven was ready to be in Amristar despite the fact that I had twenty hours of travel to go.

3/8 Stung by a Scorpion

We woke up relatively late again, but the toast was not as sandy.  I brushed my teeth, washed my face and got up to give Fernando some sunscreen.  I felt a terrible burn in my upper inner left thigh and thought I pulled a muscle. It burned so bad I screamed and grabbed my leg. Sunny shouted something and ran towards me.  India ran to the top of the dune to get cell service. The next thing I knew Sunny was stomping on a the ground.  I turned around to see a scorpion squirming in the sand. Everything started to go black. I knew I was going to die.  Sunny took me to a pile of blankets and India shouted to rub sand on the wound.  I looked at Sunny and said there is no way I'm taking my pants off.  That is when I knew I was going to survive. Patterson held up a blanket and Eri rubbed sand on the sting.  All I can say is thank god it happened with a bunch of crazy Americans - my Scorpion sisters;).  We laughed and joked while I panicked and thought I was going to lose my leg. Ends up that I had to walk 3m to get out of the desert to meet the jeep. But it was much better than riding a camel.  Funny thing was that I was wearing thongs - not so funny while I was fighting the sand but it sure is a good story;).

3/7 Different Dunes

I was surprised that we woke up so late, but because the dunes were so high the sun didn't show up until around 8a.  This was good though because sleeping was tough. The ground was very hard.  However, waking up several times during the night surrounded by silky soft white dunes and a million stars is really not a bad nite.   Breakfast was sandy toast, butter, jam, biscuits and tea - quite the indian tourist staple minus the sand of course.  India and Gunpat packed up the camels and we were off.  A note on mounting a camel - it's not easy:)  First thing is you have to swing your leg up and over the hump and packs.  Second, there are no foot holes - at least that we were told of in the first two days.  Third, when the camel stands and sits it is very important that you either lean forward or backward or else your off.  By lunch time, I felt relatively comfortable with the camels but my bum didn't.  I almost thought of leaving with the German girls but decided to tough it out.  In the afternoon, the team was switched.  We met up with two young girls from North Carolina and a young man from Brazil.  After a visit to a watering hole for the camels, we set off to another dune.  Another nite under another million stars ... I was humbled and grateful to say the least;).  Sub kuch tigh hai!

3/6 Into the desert

Our first stop was at a cenotaph just outside of Jaiselmer.  Just another moment where I couldn't believe I was really here.  I had seen these in a few Bollywood movies.  So fabulous.  I was joined by two very sweet if not reserved German girls.  We stopped in a small village for tea.  I played tag with the kids.  We reached our camels around 11a and it was of course already pretty hot.  It wasn't quite clear who our guides were or what the plans were but thank god the three of us were flexible enough to just go with the flow.  After an hours ride we stopped in what seemed like a little oasis - peacocks, giant trees, and lots of shade;).  Sunny, India and Gunpat made us a lunch of Magi noodles (just like Top Ramen), aloo ghobi, chapatis and the best chips I have ever had ... ever.  I can't wait to share these with the triplets;).  Afterward, we were joined by four children and two older women.  At first, they just wanted money, but we all warmed up to each other.  Played some games, shared some food.  Then we were off.  Back on the camels to a temple on the top of a remote mountain.  By the time we reached the sand dunes where we were to sleep, we were all very ready to dismount. After a dinner of veg pakora, rice, daal, and aloo ghobi, we all had a hard time falling asleep under a million stars;).

3/5 Melting Fort

I almost feel redundant now, but woke up and walked to the fort this morning;).  However, I don't see how you could get tired of them as they are all so different.  Jaiselmer's fort allows no rickshaws, cars or bikes ... only cows and very big ones.  I can't tell you strange it is too see a huge cow lumbering up a very tiny sandstone colored cobble stone street lined with brilliantly colored fabrics, the most beautiful architecture and tons of people.  The fort is endangered as water is scarce, it is literally melting.  It's just too bad that most of the streets are cluttered with tourist vendors.  I decide to go into the city to buy some supplies for the safari.  It's still pretty touristy but no where near as much.  After a decent but totally overpriced lunch at Trio, I head back to the hotel for an early nite as I have to wake up early for the safari;). 

3/4 Temple Sweets

In the early morning, I wandered through the blue streets - elephants, fruit stalls, temple songs, men hanging out with their bikes drinking tea, small shrines, but surprisingly no tourists which is refreshing after Udaipur and Cochin.  Early afternoon, I head to Jaislemer at the edge of the Thar desert.  Another beautiful temple stop but this time with a free temple guide.  He took me up a long stair case to the shrine where we rung a bell.  I was given a tikka, or saffron dot on my forhead and two very sticky sweets that were basically pure sugar.  I arrived in Jaislemer around sunset.  Another decent room but a lot of pressure to take a camel safari.  Considering the price, only about $20 a day, I opt for two days as its almost cheaper than staying in the hotel.  I spend the night on the rooftop (surprising I know;)) blogging and Skyping with family.

3/3 Blue in the Blue City

  

As with Holi, I have wanted to visit Jodhpur for a very long time and for many reasons, but the most obvious is the Blue connection;).  The maze of tightly woven streets is surprisingly easy to navigate.  After about a half hour, I find my self at the clock tower which seems to be both a market and tourist hub. However, I can't seem to find the way up to the fort palace so I opt for a rickshaw which was wise as it was quite a hike.  I took my first audio tour and it was so good that I listened to it several times.  The views matched Udaipur but were especially magnificent because they were blue.  Deep inside the fort, I had my palm read by an old man who kept falling asleep.  Regardless, I hope his fortune telling was correct as there are some good things in store;).  

3/2 Goodbye Udaipur ... Hello Blue City;)

  

It was really hard to leave Udaipur but it was time.  The drive to Jodhpur was gorgeous.  After driving through the wildlife preserve full of monkeys that looked like skinny lazy old men, we stopped at Rangpur, a monolithic Jain temple.  I circled the outer edge of the inner temple.  It was of course stunning.  The architecture was so intricate.  So many columns and devotees.  We arrived in Jodhpur late at night and I was shocked and relieved that my very inexpensive room had orange and red murals on the walls, many windows, and, most important, a great view of the bluest part of the city;).  

3/1 Sab Loq Holi

     

So I have been waiting for this day for almost two years.  Holi is a festival of color and friendship.  There are no enemies, castes, etc ...  Everyone buys neon powdered paint ... and then the fun begins.  In the morning, I had breakfast on the roof of my hotel and then met some friends for tea.  Midday we headed over to a party just a few feet away.  I ran into my hotel to drop off my laptop making sure not to get any color on the technology.  I emerged to meet the Czech couple who were already completely covered.  I got a little friendly color and on rounding the corner saw a crazy group of young men.  I wasn't quite up to playing as I didn't know them so I ran and dodged just barely making it into the party.  Only to get dowsed with water by my friend. The noise in the streets was fantastic.  Loud singing, music, drumming, laughing.  It was infectious and unreal.  I still can't believe what a great time I had.  After a few friendly paint fights, beers, dances and card games, I went back to take a shower, rest and meet up with everyone later. 

2/28 Holi Danika at the Palace

  

I arrived at the palace just a little early.  There were about 100 tourists and then another 100 special guests and dignitaries.  The Royal family arrived with quite a lot of pomp and bagpipes!  Women sang and played various instruments at the corner of the courtyard.  An effigy was burnt after the Royal family walked around it several times.  The heat was instant and there were huge pieces of ash flying in the air.  The fire rose to about 15 feet.  It was awesome.  Around 7 p, the guests were escorted to another courtyard for dinner.  Walking through the gate on a brilliant orange carpet, young women threw rose petals from the second floor.  The inner courtyard was magnificent.  I wandered around trying to find a friendly table.  Ended up sitting next to a lovely British couple.  They had spent their 31st wedding anniversary at the Taj and were in love with India.  So much so that they seemed like children.  They served really good french red wine - really good;).  We all chatted.  The buffet was a mile long and amazing.  When I came back from my first trip, I noticed that the Prince was standing right next to our table.  Taking interviews.  Accepting gifts.  The dancers came in again and I went for a second plate.  When I came back this time the Brit couple was taking their picture with the Prince.  They sat down and I timidly stood behind him waiting for an opportunity.  I gently tapped him on the shoulder which I'm sure I shouldn't have done and a friend from my table took our picture.  I said Dunyawad and he bowed.  He is very handsome, but also very accessible.  A nice combination. It was so hard to leave, but it was getting late and I didn't trust the dark streets of Udaipur.  I said my goodbyes and slowly left the palace relishing every second.  I met up with the Czech Couple again but went to bed early ... dreaming of Palaces and Princes;).

2/27 Cooking with Sushma

Wandered into a temple but was really put off by all the touts so did not stay too long.  Maybe I will visit in the early morning.  Was lucky enough to get into a cooking class with Sushma at my hotel.  We made chai, butter paneer and chapatis.  Then we all ate dinner together.  Met an American-Russian couple traveling with their son, a wonderful Brazilian woman travelling alone, and a young Canadian couple.  Again, I just wish Stone was here with me.  He would have been in Heaven.  Later that night, I had drinks with a fascinating couple from the Czech Republic.  I stayed up way too late but had a great time talking about Russia, Rajasthan and the upcoming celebrations for Holi. 

2/26 Monsoon Palace on a Motorcycle

At breakfast I met a very kind local who offered to take me to the Monsoon Palace on his motorcycle.  The Palace sits on a mountain high above the lakes and was also used in the James Bond movie.  The ride was a little scary but I tried to keep my eyes open as he dodged cows, cars, and tourists.  Again the views were extraordinary and made me think of Italy.  The palace its self is in disrepair but it's a nice contrast to the opulence of the City Palace.  My motorcycle guide drops me off in the market as I need to find a chuni, or scarf, for the party.  Most of the vendors cater to tourists and don't have what I'm looking for so they put me into an auto for a sari shop.  What's funny is the sari shop shows me the exact same scarfs.  So I decide to wander again.  In the backstreets, I am ambushed by a bunch of bright wiry kids. After a lunch of greasy mutton biryani with the kids, I go to meet Binny for tea. He shows up with tee shirts (enough for the boys in my family;)), key chains and pens from his company.  So thoughtful.  And after another dinner on yet another rooftop, I go to bed amazed and in awe of Udaipur ... by far my favorite city in India.

2/25 Palaces

Early in the morning, I walked through Udaipur's tiny crammed hilly streets filled with cows, vendors ("Hello", "Where are you from?", "Come and have chai with me" over and over and over;)), dogs, tourists, motorbikes, autorickshaws and more cows.  I found the City Palace and a seemingly decent guide - one hour $2.  We sped through the palace and by the time I was done I found myself with a ticket to the Maharani's fancy Holi celebration on the 28th.  I decided to stay and walk through the palace again at my own pace.  It was stunning.  The views of the city, of the lake, of the courtyards.  At dusk, I went for dinner at a rooftop restaurant (one of many - I'm in Heaven) with cushy window seats and a fantastic view of the Lake Palace.  Back in my room I tried to review and organize my pics but end up going through all the Dakshinayan pictures - nostalgic.  I miss the kids.  The simplicity. 

2/24 Saved by the Bus

Up at 5am and on a stinky sleeper bus (but I'm on the second level so at least there is a great view) bound for Udaipur - the city of Lakes and of James Bond Octopussy fame.  The scenery has changed drastically.  High desert reminds me a bit of Palm Springs and New Mexico.  Finally at Hotel Krishna Niwas around 4p.  And thanks to Binny safely and a day early.  Tiny windy hilly streets.  Once in my hotel, I can see the lake, see the palaces and temples.  I think its the most beautiful city I have ever seen.  Had dinner with a peaceful lake palace view on a soft lazy cushioned window seat.  I really wanted to stay up and explore but I was exhausted. 

2/23 Train for a day

Woke up to two loud but clearly very happy Indian couples.  Read in my little side berth most of the morning as did the rest of the train (except for the happy couples;).  I finally emerged and with my little Hindi attempted a conversation.  They fed me wonderful little treats - a dried thin chapati with a coconut chili paste, sweets, and samosas.  Another gentleman joined us who spoke very good English and translated for me.  Turns out he is also going to Udaipur and perhaps because he was Catholic and knew I was baptized decided to personally escort me, saving me a whole days worth of travel.  A note on conversations with Indians - they get personal quick;).  Within ten minutes they know your religion, your family status and the why's and why nots of your private life.  But they are also genuinely concerned with your well being - asking where you are staying, how you are getting there, constantly giving safety tips.  I ended up giving one of the women my berth as it was easier for her to get into and fall asleep surrounded by snoring and other body noises;).

2/22 Temple moment

Walked over 4k with my back pack this morning.  Took the ferry to Ernakulum.  Dropped my pack off and headed to the Shiva temple.  I was sad that I would not have time to visit the bigger Shiva temple where there would be 10 elephants and a big ceremony, but the Shiva temple in Ernakulam was amazing.  I walked around the perimeter unsure if I could go in or not but a very nice older man must have sensed my hesitation and ushered me in.  The ceiling was very low. The space small. It was dark, smelled of incense and oil. And there was a constant flow of people.  I sat and watched for awhile and got to see a few of the men making really strange (to me that is;) gestures and movements.  They would lift one leg and put it over the other, cross their arms and grab their earlobes then bob up and down.  I had seen this on a documentary before but of course that doesn't do it justice.  Finally I walked around the circular inner temple to look at what everyone was praying to.  The space was of course smaller, darker and inside was a statue that looked like a golden branch decorated with tons of flowers and surrounded by little oil lamps.  Breathtakingly beautiful.  As I was leaving, I stopped to watch the firework maker.  I was on my train before long talking with a kind couple from France.  I set up my side berth trying to prep myself for the two day train ride ahead.  

2/21 A Few Beers and A Lot of Laughs

Mostly wandered the streets of Cochin today trying to get lost;).  The homes are beautiful.  They remind me of Balboa Island except for subtropical and many of them are converted to guest houses (the state government gives huge incentives for this). Its deadly hot and humid so my walking is limited to the early morning and late afternoon.  I venture out for a late dinner and meet up with a few of the folks from yesterday's tour.  We have a few beers and a lot of laughs before I head back to sleep.

2/20 Pendo

Somehow I lost a day - I think I may have combined two.  So this post will be dedicated to Pendo, a little boy I met in Fort Cochin.  He was policing a street corner.  When I asked to take his picture, he was very specific as to where and how;). 

2/19 Spice Wilderness

Up for a lovely breakfast on the roof.  Then off for a day long tour (only $15!).  Was greeted by a sleepy bus full of tourists.  After an hour and a half we reached the little boats that would take us through small canals to a spice farm that was really a wilderness.  A wedding procession went over the bridge as we passed by carrying the bride in an auto rickshaw.  The canals were small and shallow.  The landscape lush and sparsely populated.  We got out of the boat to watch men split open coconuts and a woman make rope.  Then we walked to a private farm.  I got to taste cinnamon from the tree, raw nutmeg flesh, neem more bitter than anything I've ever tasted, and curry leaves. We had lunch on an island.  All the Germans, Brits, and I were especially surprised that they had really cold beer.  The afternoon was spent on a house boat navigating the larger waters and some "back water" of Kerela.  By the time I got home and took a shower, I was way too exhausted to have drinks with my new found friends, but luckily I was to meet up with them tomorrow.

2/18 Heaven in the land of coconuts

Arrived around 6am in Ernakulum, Kerela..  Took a 10 minute ferry ride to Fort Cochin.  Very nice auto driver drove me around to various guest houses.  Finally settled on a lovely moderately priced room with a garden terrace, friendly staff and great breakfast.  Rested a bit in the morning.  Wandered in the afternoon.  Got to help pull up a massive Chinese fishing net - another moment where I just couldn't believe that I was here.  They are just so big and ancient.  I will upload the video soon. Joined a cooking class in the evening.  Great fun.  Just wish Stone could have been here with me;).  We made fish curry, pumpkin curry, Thoran, and chapatis - pics up soon;).

2/17 FRRO IV

Up before the sun.  Pretty much used to the substandard room.  Funny smells. No space.  Cold water.  Lots of noise.  Caught a local bus to Chennai. Clean, comfortable, and a great view - sooo much development.  Massive tank with a beautiful temple in the center right after Mamallapurum.  A huge beautiful pristine hospital complex.  Quite a few 20 story buildings in progress.  One Lotus Pond mixed use complex complete. Mamallapuram was kind of a seedy little tourist town.  Chennai Hotel room service was hilarious - a hot dog bun with jam and butter and tea in an ancient thermos - the tea was really good though .  Train ticket line was at least fifty people deep but they didn’t seem to mind.  The man at the inquiry window was so helpful  and kind when I said "Vanakam", he replied "Many late welcoming to you.":) and invited me behind the glass door. 
Wow so after four visits and a weeks wait, I get my visa officially extended.   Had a most amazing lunch with the best saag palak I have ever had.  And the gulab jamun - incredible.  Nice to be in a local restaurant.  Found the best samosa I've ever had on a side street and got on my overnite train for Cochin.    Spent the evening listening to a slightly overbearing but quite nice older accountant from Tamil Nadu.  Slept well in my little side berth anxious to get to Kerela;).

2/16 Holy Cow

I have one more day in Mamallapurum but was not feeling well so I rested and read during the day.  More chalk drawings but this time specifically for the tourists. Favorite sighting of the day: two huge cows with colorful horns covered in bells.  Ate a whole fish and was instructed to try the cheek flesh. Even though it took me forever to find my way through the bones, it was wonderfully tender and delicate.

2/15 Kashmiri Shoes

Walked around the beach and temple grounds around sunrise - the best time as the shops are all closed and the town was still sleeping.  My flip flops broke so I had to go bargain for a new pair.  It was my first attempt and even though it was exhausting I think I did pretty well. I did find out later that I paid twice the amount I should have:).  Had an ice cold beer with a crazy Bavarian Kollywood actor and headed off to bed hoping for the best (ie last night a mouse ran over my mosquito net and ate all my bisquits;().