A Promise

I solemnly swear that the moment I start living in a new country I will begin learning the language.  The bad habits of bad Vietnamese that I've accumulated in the last year are driving me and my VN teacher crazy. 

Mua Mua Mua

After a few days of sauna hot days, the rain returns.  And it's serious.  It doesn't want to stop ... after almost a day.  Huge powerful in your lap thunder storms. I'm so looking forward to a little mild SoCal sunshine for Christmas:).

Sand Worms

Another amazing meal on Woman's Day with a group of beautiful ladies all in blue. Turns out that it's Women's Day for communists.  Mam Son is a beautiful little Northern Vietnamese restaurant.  The food and atmosphere was stunning.  First we had stuffed snails with fried eel, then chicken stomach and pineapple, clam tomato dill soup and  a lovely little sand worm quiche. Dessert was loganberries stuffed with lotus seeds.  My first time tasting worms and lotus seeds ... both were ngon or delicious! Perhaps the best meal I've had in Vietnam - Thanks Thu!

The Wonderful World of Tones

For a year, I've been saying "pencil" instead of "Hello" and, very sadly, "stupid" instead of "flower".  Sad as the latter is a common name for women.  "Pencil, Stupid" ... nice. My goal for the next month is to master the wonderful world of tones in a monosyllabic language.  Wish me luck.

Soggy

A stinky raincoat, soggy clothes, frizzy hair, an even more stinky face mask (even though I constantly wash them), runny makeup .... monsoon living.  I've gotten to where I can read the sky.  Last year, I was amazed at how people knew when to pull out the awnings or stop and put on a raincoat. But now, I can see it in the sky and trees.  Feel it in the wind and temperature.  The feeling can be blissful if at your back .. fun and playful.  But if at your face, fierce and just plain mean. I feel slightly damp at all times and have completely given up on any kind of rational hairstyle. Only a month of mua (rain) to go!

Questions

How old are you? How much do you weigh? Why aren't you married? Almost two years later and I've come to love asking and answering these questions.  It's very open and freeing.  What is private in the states seems to be public here.  What is public in the states is private here eg physical affection. I watched a few painful minutes of the Bachelorette recently and was really annoyed and kind of disgusted by all the kissing ... almost two years later and I see kissing as a very private affair:). ... or I'm just getting older?

Market Ladies

Crowded little stalls of soap and shampoo, coffee and ginseng.  Flower stands, fruit stands, tea stands and incense everywhere. Women sitting on top of long steel counters hacking huge pieces of meat.
My favorite is by far my vegetable ladies - Long and Dung.  We banter in sign language and laughs with a few Vietnamese words thrown in.  I get a huge bag of cucumbers, lettuce, broccoli, limes, dill, cilantro, onions, garlic and chilis.for ten dollars ... and they always throw in more ... always something extra.  This has definitely become one of my favorite things to do.

Birds Nest

There is a little bird, the swift bird, high in the mountains that makes beautiful little nests out of it's saliva.  This is used to make bird's nest drink that for a year and a half have avoided.  This morning, one of my fellow teachers threw out my water and made me drink an entire can saying that I looked sick and was loosing too much weight.  "That's the plan", I said as I tentatively swallowed the sugar water with strings of what felt like thin gummy worms.  Supposedly it has amazing healing powers.  I'll let you know next week ... although I'm not quite sure what I'm being healed of.

Kindness

Several times in the last week, I have found myself in need of help whether I thought I needed it or not.  On an anxious drive home due to too much planning and a heavy schedule, one of my bags fell off my bike and a hundred copies spilled onto the street - most of which thankfully were to be recycled.  Regardless, three little street boys appeared out of nowhere and picked them up in a matter of seconds in the middle of jammed packed traffic no less.  Two other gentlemen made sure my bag was securely attached to my bike before I left.  I gave most of the copies to the kids half of which they returned to me after they saw that it looked like homework.  The next day, I was struggling to start my bike - as usual - it's typical of a Nouvo. Great bike - bad starter.  A young man looking very concerned, wouldn't leave until he started the bike.  We then realized that there was no gas.  So, he then walked me to up and out of the parking garage to the little man who sells gas across the street.  He wouldn't leave until I was firmly on my bike with engine running.  The next day I lost my parking ticket and the attendant refused to let me out.  I was trapped in City Plaza Supermarket.  A young woman approached me asking if I was okay.  I explained and she helped me to look for the ticket.  We wandered around the lot and stores for about an hour.  No luck.  She stayed with me until the owner of the bike arrived with proof of registration.  Today, my little corner cafe was closed and I stood staring blankly.  A man stopped and asked me what I needed.  I explained and he insisted on taking me to a cafe down the street. A true genuine concern - a natural one.  Not asking for anything. All these gestures just felt selfless and immediate..  Maybe that's why they always ask "An com chu" - have you eaten yet?. A real concern for your well being. I've heard so many people say in the last year that the Vietnamese are rude or demanding. All I can see is people who help you just because ... nothing asked in return ... well, most of the time;). 

Two Months

It's been over two months since I've posted.  I have a long list of drafts to update.  Only one of which was a fabulous trip to Hanoi, Ha Long Bay and Hoi An.  More than ever I feel grateful to be abroad, but, to the same extent, miss my family and friends deeply.  Rarely have I missed the states, only the people and certain small details (organic food, uncensored internet, hair products and reliable hot water and power;)). The plan is to see 30 countries in the next 10 years.  That should make it 50 by the time I'm 50.  More to come....

More Yay

At least that what it sounds like ... yay or de is goat.  Had a goodbye goat dinner with at least six different dipping sauces.  Chili, lime, pepper, miso, more chili, and basil.  Steamed goat, bbq goat, fried goat. The miso chili sauce is by far my favorite ... very sour and earthy.  Fantastic with a few beers, but so sad to say goodbye to a group of engineers I've been with for almost a year.  They gave me a beautiful gift of fabric for an ao da (a traditional Vietnamese long dress with silk pants)  the color of the sun.  Thanks Tafico. I will so miss you.

Thunder Palace

Three months ago, I moved into a highrise that I  said I'd never do.  I moved into another district that I adamantly refused as well.  But it's luxury on the 13th floor.  Stunning views and amenities.  And thunder storms like I've never experienced.  I honestly felt like I was in a war zone.  The booms and cracks were terrifying.  I usually love a good storm ... this one not so much.  May have to build a bunker.

Summer Roasted Chestnuts

On my walk home from the park, I found vendors trolling outside my house in front of the late night snail restaurants.  Little push carts with a bowl of hot sand and baskets of chestnuts. Warm fragrant  and amazing with some salt ... in summer no less;).

Silly Signage

This is posted in my grocery store restroom. I've been wanting to post it for ages. 

One leg and two wheels

A one legged one armed man rode a bicycle gracefully in and out of the cars, buses, inching pedestrians and crazy taxis during rush hour traffic.  I nearly had an accident watching him.  It was almost hypnotic.

Has it really been over two months?

Has it really been almost three months since my last post? I guess it's time to go to weekly posts;).  I still have so much to say every day, but will sum it up in weekly posts for the next year ... until I move to the next country.  Hope to get caught up soon.  Have had some lovely experiences especially with the food and language .. just hope I can remember them all:).

3/8 40 ... really

I've always said I can't wait to be 40 ... I'm 40 and it just doesn't feel any different.  Where's all that wisdom, grace and charm I was expecting ... maybe it's 50 they were all talking about;).

3/7 Lodge Hill

Lodge Hill is definitely the best wine I've had since I've been away.  We tasted it in Da Lat and it was an oaky heaven.  I've tasted it in Saigon and it continues to be truly amazing.  If you like the oak, please please oh please try it.  One great thing about being in Vietnam, as opposed to India, is the good wine;).

3/6 Tear Down

Our house is being torn down in two months, typical in HCMC, so we move in a few days.  Never thought I'd move into a highrise ... but am truly excited about the 13th floor.  Beautiful views, no cockroaches or other creepy crawlies and an oh so lovely new neighborhood.  District 4 here we come;).

3/5 Not an Alien

I sat quietly at a table full of Vietnamese women at a company outing.  Trying not to be too American, too Western,.  After eating a meal of hot pot fish and squid, one of the women finally said to me in English, "because of your acting I don't see you as an alien just a foreigner". It's nice not  being an alien;).

3/4 In Sight

Aspects of the VN culture are slowly starting to reveal themselves.  I guess this is why I choose two years in each country.  I think I finally understand the 24/24 ads.  Tram for tram or 100 out of 100 (translated as 100%) is a common saying.  So while I was confused about this earlier, I now understand.  24 hours out of 24 hours.  Little in sights every day;).

3/3 Big Brooms

The streets are cleaned by hand for the most part.  By men and women with big Wizard of Oz brooms. However, for the first time in over a year, I  saw a street sweeping machine today - it was very tiny and efficient by American standards.  We have a lot to learn I think;).

3/2 The Massage Bikers

Since I arrived over a year ago, I've been fascinated by the masseuses on bikes.  They ride around on bicycles shaking bottle caps on a wire, stopping to give mostly men massages.  In the last year I have seen maybe 2 percent actually giving a massage.  It's very curious. 

3/1 Basket of Dogs

Driving home from Phu Nhuan, I was stuck in traffic behind a small motorbike with a very large basket full of medium sized and, what seemed to be, sedated dogs.  They were layered on top of each other so tightly wound that at first glance I thought it was just old dirty laundry.  But after sitting for a moment, I noticed some open eyes and panting tongues - it was very disturbing and continues to haunt me as I write this almost two months later.

2/28 Inspiration?

For some reason, I haven't had the inspiration to log on the blog.  Still have so much to share everyday.  I'm still dedicated to a daily post as it's a really good process to deal with being abroad just need to sit and dedicate some time.  Inspiration coming soon;).

2/27 Brief Observation #6

If you ride a bike, you are "poor".  This is not so much an observation but more of a statement made by the Saigonese. It's interesting that it is so looked down on.  Thus the million motorbikes I guess. 

2/26 Brief Observation #5

Ice Cream is a very important part of life here. My favorite are the little kem carts.  Ice cream cones and most importantly ice cream sandwiches ... in a lovely french baguette.

2/25 Brief Observation #4

The Vietnamese love their french pastry shops - especially Tous Les Jour which at first I avoided and now love.  Very inexpensive lovely pastries and lattes and a beautiful environment.  Synonym:  a cheap Starbucks.

2/24 Brief Observation #3

After over a year I am still not able to download ITunes songs.  Definitely not a brief observation;)

2/23 Brief Observation #2

Vietnamese women usually don't drink wine and only occasionally beer.  The wine being rice wine primarily.  I have to find out if red wine is ok?

2/22 A New View

Drove to a new district today. Quiet streets, trees everywhere, lovely little cafes, and massive supermarkets (aka malls;)). Fabulous to get a new perspective of the city.  Sometimes that's all it takes;).

2/21 Two Months Behind

As I'm two months behind, my posts will, of course, be brief observations.
Brief Observation # 1 Vietnamese men have very long fingernails.  After a year and a half, it's still strange when they point something out especially in close proximity.  However, I did take note today that there is a small minority that don't wear their nails long ... I wonder why?  Hopefully, an answer soon;).

2/20 Pirate Comfort

Of course, just sad today.  Comforted myself with some  VN TV - American Idol, Master Chef, Top Model, and pirated movies (sorry it's a horrible reality here).

2/19 Goat Hotpot

Early early wake up with a really really deep sadness.  I sat on my motorbike watching them leave just wishing they could stay or at least come back once a month.  I was full of tears all day. Arrived at my afternoon class to get an invitation to lunch in lieu of class which I very gratefully accepted.  We sat on the second floor of a nondescript, District One restaurant at long low to the ground stainless steel tables with tiny blue plastic chairs.  Course after course arrived while I tried to get information about exactly what it was that we were eating. I came to find out after about three hours, a few beers and some fabulous rice wine that we were eating goat and many interesting goat parts.  The translation is as follows: nipple, bone marrow, leg, head, and, most importantly brain.  I arrived home comforted in a strange way.  With very swollen eyes, a heavy heart and some wonderful texts from mom, I went to bed - at 7pm and didn't wake up for 12 hours.

2/18 Parks and Tailors

The ladies finally got their park experience and even though it wasn't in the morning it was still fabulous.  They got a good taste of one of my favorite things about Saigon.   After the final fitting at the tailor, or at least we thought, we grabbed Sacha for dinner at Ngon-another stand by. So great to have her join us.  Enjoyed a nice bottle of wine even though the dinner was a bit questionable - sorry ladies;).  Headed back to the tailor to only find they wanted a "final final" fitting - of course.  Had a drink while we waited and the dream started to fade.  I was just sad.  I could have had another three weeks with them.  There was so much more to do.  We finally came home and I feebly helped them pack. We all got to bed late for a way too early morning.

2/17 Rooftop Tears

After my morning class, I met the ladies for lunch at a Japanese steak house which was surprisingly delicious. I gave them a quick tour of the cool kitschy shops on the block and headed off to plan.  They met me an hour later for class in one of my Vietnamese public schools.  The 50+ students were, of course, fascinated by them and ended up grilling them the entire lesson.  I think everyone had a blast.  Let the ladies wander again while I finished my classes.  We headed to the 23rd floor of the Sheridan which I have wanted to go to since I arrived. While totally overpriced and over crowded, it was still lovely and very very special.  We talked, shared, cried, and, of course, laughed hysterically. 

2/16 Tailor and the Hokey Pokey

I woke early to go to park for some exercise and a pastry run. Wanted to share the lovely baked goods that Saigon has to offer.  After breakfast, we were off to the tailor which, as usual, took longer than expected.  The ladies met me at Be Ngoi Sau, the kindergarten I teach at, for an afternoon of songs and, of course, more laughing.  I headed off to my next class to let the ladies wander.  When I got home, we headed off for a dinner at a bbq garden.  A good choice - but there are definitely better.  Regardless, we had a great nite and got home exhausted as usual. 

2/15 Embroidered Beauty

We returned to the Soffitel to peruse and get Deb her amazing silk embroidered painting.  While they packed it for shipping, we went to the "village" where the silk embroidery artists work to meet the artist.  It was a bit touristy, but still beautiful.  Headed back to the hotel and said goodbye to the dream.  Flew back to Saigon for a quick dinner and early nite.  The next few days would prove to need the rest.

2/14 Easy Riders

Woke up to breakfast in the suite then we were off to meet our Easy Riders. I had read about it and was lucky enough to meet Hung when we arrived.  He brought along two other gentlemen and within in hour all three of us had our very own Vietnamese boyfriend.  They were accessible, kind, down to earth, and just plain fun.  We visited the Crazy House (think Gaudi in Spain), toured the country side, witnessed a video taping of a Russian Hip Hop band and got to see a very large and very happy Buddha. But the best moment of the day, was Deb, my aunt having her first beer.  She was definitely more impressed with the scenery. The ladies visited the spa while I took advantage of the mammoth bath tub in the master bedroom.  Another amazing day in DaLat. 

2/13 Best Birthday Ever

 Woke up to wonderful gifts and a wonderful sunrise over the lake thanks to my Mom and Aunt. Woke up to a fabulously decorated suite thanks to Sacha. Had a leisurely brunch and wondered over to the Dalat Palace to check out wine tastings.  Made a reservation and wondered back to the hotel.  Arrived to find a cake and wine.  More celebrations then back for the wine tasting.  Sat with my Mom and Aunt in a private room tasting the old and new world but most importantly laughing hysterically.  This was by far my favorite part of the trip - having those two all to myself.  Went for an after tasting drink;) and met a gorgeous Dutch man who ended getting my second birthday cake - thanks Mom.  Really just a very special day with my two favorite ladies.  So very grateful to have had them here on such a special day. 

2/12 Dalat Dreams

This is kind of where the dream starts. We woke up at the crack of dawn, haled a taxi, got on a prop plane, landed in a misty valley, took a quiet taxi and arrived in the sleepy city of Dalat.  A little like San Fransisco, a little like Paris.  We got in early so our room was not ready of course. However, upon closer inspection the presidential suite was.  So as we enjoyed a fabulous champagne brunch on the roof, we were informed that our suite awaited us. Wow. Definitely a dream and a fabulous hotel - Ngoc Lan.  Really luxurious, a little extravagant and a beautiful view (or views;) of the lake. The ladies had their first VN spa experience which turned out to be just plain hilarious ... think ABBA hair.  We wandered the market while taking pics and tasting street food (well I tasted the street food).  Had a decent dinner and fell asleep in the dream suite. 

2/11 I still can't believe it

As I write this almost two months after the fact, I still can't believe my mom and aunt were really here.  We flew out of Siem Reap in the morning.  Why oh why do I torture myself with 12 hour bus rides? Why?  It was so seamless. So gentle.  Stayed at the airport for two hours waiting for their arrival ... this perhaps was just as painful as a 12 hour bus ride;). Then, they were just here.  All I could do was try and contain my excitement.  To remain calm so that I could navigate the crazy world of HCMC transportation.  We finally got to the house, unloaded a bit, gave a quick house tour and were off again.  I decided due to time that the motorbike was best. So I gave my mom a helmet, put her on the back of my bike an we were off.  I'm still surprised at how calm and collected she was.   When I first arrived, I was overwhelmed and honestly, totally freaked out on the back of a bike.  She, however, loved it. You rock, Mom.

2/10 Finally

Really cranky in the morning, couldn't be because of the wine I'm sure;).  Went to confirm our flights. To find out Sach had no reservation.  So I turned into the typical abusive irate westerner only to find out minutes later they had made her reservation under a different name.  We apologized profusely and left laughing and ever so grateful for the graciousness of the Cambodian people.  We then decided that it was time for Dr. Fish.  I thought no big deal a bunch of little fish nibbling away at the dead skin on my feet.  We had watched it the night before.  No harm no foul.  Except that these fish had teeth .. the soothing little gums I imagined.  I flipped out and could barely keep my feet in the water.  But Sacha's firm resolve made me persevere and after a half hour we removed our fee to find ... lots of chewed at dead skin.  Definitely try it for the experience but do not expect to be soothed or smoothed. My day ended with a beautiful walk on the river and through the quiet streets.  After a year and a half, I finally saw my first banquet of fried gooey insects.   They were beautifully laid out in a nondescript alley.  Crickets, ants, cockroaches and a few others I couldn't identify.  I hurried back to the hotel telling Sacha.  I'm hungry.  I'm ready to eat some ants.  But after searching, the banquet was gone.  Guess I have to come back to Siem Reap ... again;).

2/9 Birthday at Angkor

Staff at the hotel helped me to decorate a birthday breakfast table for Sacha including 40 messages from everyone that loves her.  We met our guide who at first I thought was a little dull and young but turned out to be hilarious and quite in tune with what we needed. It was wonderful to see everything with someone else.  To share what I had seen and what I was seeing now.  It's quite different on the second viewing.  Different but still totally amazing and now top two.  There's nothing like it.  Perhaps because it has really just opening to the public in the last few years.  I just can't imagine what it will be like in ten years.  I hope they protect it.  We waited with the masses on the top of the hill for sunset for over an hour.  And honestly, I was more interested in watching the two hundred people around me than the sun.  It was a fabulous show.  Bday cake and a lovely sparkling hamburger for dinner and it was an early night surprisingly.  Happy Birthday Sacha.  You deserve the best life has to offer. 

2/8 Wander

Had a nice little wander searching for birthday treats for Sacha.  It was a long list so took me all day. Small hole in the wall local flower shop for a bracelet made of jasmine. Cake shop negotiations in mime. And market bargaining for Cambodian kiitch. Went to bed early in preparation for my second visit to Angkor Wat ... and the birthday festivities of course;).

2/7 Salt Shaker

We laughed when the guy walked down the aisle with black plastic bags and stopped to mime vomit.  But after six hours in broken chairs at the back of the bus, I was almost in tears.  I just kept chanting I've been through worse.  Just months ago, I sat covered in people in a freezing bus on a road that was not a road in India.  I can do this!  But after 10 hours, I almost had them stop the bus.  After twelve, we arrived to a handmade sign saying AmiBlue and again I was almost in tears.  Our room was lovely, comforting and painted like a yellow sun.  We were invigorated and wandered our way to pub street.  What a different world.  A little more upscale.  Beautiful musicians on the street.  Fabulous restaurants everywhere. Kitchy boutiques.  Two mojitos later, all we could do was laugh at the black plastic bags and salt shaker seats.  I love Siem Reap.

2/6 Fried

We both let our sun guard down and got terribly sunburnt our last day on the beach.  The waters were still rough so no swimming or kayaking.  Just a lovely little dinner of barracuda and beer and an early nite in lieu of a long day of bumpy buses.

2/4 Monks and Umbrellas

Needed a break from the beach so went into town.  In just an hour, got to see such a different side of the city.  Watched two monks going from business to business with there begging bowls.  Bright orange robes and umbrellas. At night we decided to walk through the local or Khmer half of the beach.  Again such a different perspective.  Khmer: little chairs.  Fluorescent lights. Fireworks. Swimming with your clothes on. Kids playing.  Lots of bbq'd squid. Lots of beer and wine. Western side: soft yellow lights. Big chairs and tables.  Swimming with close to nothing on.  Kids selling. Lots of Lots of beer and wine.  Interesting to say the least.

2/3 Malcolm and Mojitos

Another phenomenal walk along the beach for an hour to our little secluded beach.  However, I did find out that the 2 hour kayake to the island was really 6 hours so again opted for Malcolm and later Mojitos.

2/2 Bikinis

After walking down a 10 mile beach of cool languid waters, I broke down and bought a bikini.  I lost all shame ... especially after walking past many large and much older Europeans in much less than I purchased and some in nothing at all;). I swam for hours and even contemplated kayaking to the islands in the distance, but decided to read Malcolm Gladwell's Outliers instead.  This would prove to be a wise decision over the next few days.

2/1 12 Hours

12 hours to Sihanoukville from Saigon.  6 in comfort in seat 1 and 2 surrounded by flowers and 6 in painful anticipation in the back of the bus with no arm rests and very strange Cambodian Love songs.  After carrying my all too heavy suitcase over rocks and thru numerous beach front restaurants we reached our bungalows and a very substandard room.  Sach was in high spirits ... I was definitely headed in the other direction.  Turns out all I needed was a good nites sleep;).

1/31 Ready to Go

Honestly, it's been a very long three and a half weeks.  However, I have just realized I haven't planned for this trip.  This was kind of an unspoken pact with my flatmate, but really, I haven't planned anything except for transportation and accommodation.  Since I've already been to Cambodia, I'm not worried, but I am curious to see how I cope with six days at the beach as I am definitely not a beach person.  For some reason, I have total faith that this big 40 Bday holiday will be fabulous no matter where I am;).

1/30 American Idol II

Hooked on American Idol ... never ever ever ever did I think I would be so dedicated.  Love it and look forward to it.  Still not as good as Lambert though;)

1/29 No Focus

Not many students in class. Only two days till we leave. Traffic has doubled.  Lines have tripled. Shops are closing. Just hard to focus.  Just time to go on holiday;)

1/28 Tet Parks

All the parks in Saigon have turned into massive flower and tree markets.  Some are closed and require a fee as they are decorated with elaborate Tet flower arrangements.  Stores on the main streets have equally elaborate window scenes with Tet themes.  Grandparents giving their grandchildren lucky money. The Ban Choi(sp), rice and meat beautifully wrapped in banana leaves tied in perfect little packages.  Kind of sad I'll be missing Tet in Saigon. Maybe next year;).

1/27 My Shadow

Tet Celebration at my favorite Kindergarten.  One of my three year olds who is very quiet in class followed me around all day ... glued to me like my shadow.  He would bring me food and insist on feeding me.  At one point started yelling at me in Vietnamese ... came to find out he needed to go to the bathroom;).

1/26 Bonsais and Topiaries

The park is slowly filling up with tiny My bonsai trees and tangerine topiarys. The wide pathways are becoming small and packed with motorbikes effortlessly carrying enormous trees.  The smells are intoxicating.  Earthy, sweet, citrusy ... Tet is fabulous.

1/25 Heaven and a Day Off

Visit to Heaven for all the treatments I haven't had.  It just seems to get better.  Must spread the word!

1/24 New Faces

New Class.  New faces.  New techniques. New dynamics.  New demands and new rewards;).

1/23 The Pleasant Season

The rains stopped while we were away.  Now it is just plain pleasant.  Slightly hazy and overcast but lovely.  Still have to say I sleep with the AC.  But nights are cool especially speeding around on the bike.  Should stay like this for a bit then back to the heavy penetrating heat of Summer. 

1/22 Discount Cards

Feel like such a local today.  My favorite bag check lady at the supermarket stopped me with great excitement.  Made me wait for about 20 minutes returning with a golden discount card.  I felt quite honored and was convinced it would save me at least 10% until Sacha read the details.  3% savings ... still feel very special;).

1/21 Locked Out!

Stayed out a bit late with a friend and got locked out of my house as we have to deadbolt the gate.  Felt like I just arrived as I had to stay at a guesthouse;).  Grateful to the old couple who took care of me and gave me a very good room and rate.

1/20 Coffee Day

Coffee class with my eight Nam Viet guys.  Talked about Christmas, Tet, the economy, Americans and family.  Lovely morning but I realized I will miss them since we won't have class for a month. 

1/19 Dalat!

It's decided! Dalat for four days for my big birthday with my Mom and Aunt.  It'll be perfect.  I almost settled for Mui Ne as we couldn't get tickets to Hanoi/HaLong.  But this will be even better.  A short plane trip to a lovely hotel on a lake.  Ladies, I'm counting the days!

1/18 A Day of Rest

A whole day of rest.  Absolutely luxurious.  Would have been perfect wifi was working;).

1/17 Is Anyone Out There?

Had ample time to Skype, but couldn't get through to anyone.  Missing the family as usual:(.

1/16 Dark Narrow Houses II

Looked for houses today and very disappointed.  90% of Saigon, and urban Vietnam for that matter, is long and extremely narrow.  Offering little light, long cramped spaces, but if you are lucky, spectacular views.  So we will stay where we are and live through the construction unless we find an equally beautiful house.  March is going to be interesting.  Demolition Vietnamese style will be even more interesting.  Sacha and Amie living together happily during construction and working seven days a week ... extraordinary;).

1/15 Two weeks

Two weeks till Sihanoukville's "undiscovered" beaches and Angkor Wat via bicycle!10 days of Cambodian bliss. Very grateful indeed.

1/14 The Hover

One important bit of culture shock advice/notice/warning for anyone coming over to Saigon.  When shopping almost anywhere but supermarkets, you will always encounter the hover.  The smaller the shop the closer the hover.  Even at my favorite spa, the hover.  They stand quietly with there hands crossed about a foot or two feet behind you.  After almost a year, I'm finally used to it, doesn't mean I like, I'm just used to it;).

1/13 40

40 in a month. Crazy.  I'm convinced it's not really middle age ... I have at least 15 years.  I could live to 110;).  Honestly, "middle age"? Really?

1/12 Tet II

Six foot high Tet packages full of biscuits and wine - in shops, on the sidewalks and of course on motorbikes.  Fabulous.

1/11 Tet

Yellow flowers everywhere. Watermelons.  Lucky Money. Rice wrapped in banana leaf packages. New Year excitement is building;).

1/10 What Can I Say?

In Vietnamese ... not much:(
Hello
Thank you
Finished
Beautiful
How are you?
Fine
1-999999
See you tomorrow
Pineapple
Papaya
Mango
Take Away
... but interesting to see where my priorities lie;)

oh and Chuc Mung Nam Moi - Happy New Year!

1/9 Afternoon BBQ

Steamed muddy fish in a gourd.  Heineken. Spicy prawns. Gigantic Squid with mint.  Twenty different fish sauces. More Heineken.  Massive lanterns begin hung for Tet.  Pages and pages of Vietnamese translations.  All on a sleepy Sunday afternoon, hid in a beautiful BBQ restaurant in District 3.  I love Saigon.

1/8 Organized Chaos

Nothing like the organized chaos of Saigon.  The traffic, the laws, the language, the grocery stores ... a mystery.  Fabulous.  Just a year to figure it out!

1/7 Just a Dream

Colorado feels like a dream - a gingerbread filled snowy dream with fireworks and people who understood what I was saying.  A dream with presents everyday and hot water in every faucet.  A dream with friends on platforms and food in the fridge. A dream with fireplaces and snowmobiles.  A dream with men in drag and pregnant ghosts.  A fabulous but all too short dream. 

1/6 Jitters

Feel like a newbie on my bike.  Actually found my self looking to the right and left.  Looking in my side mirrors.  Stopping at stop lights.  ... it only took me about 20 minutes to get back into the swing of things.  Silly side mirrors. 

1/5 A Day of Rest

First Day of rest since September.  TV sucks in Saigon;). 

1/4 Lost Time

Traveling back in time. Fighting with taxi drivers. Regardless Saigon feels welcoming.  The humidity is instant and wonderful.  The traffic is congested but flows.  The noise is ceaseless but comforting. It all feels like home. 

1/3 Blue Traveler

Long lines, long flights, rushed connections, no sleep, no wireless - a very blue traveler indeed.

1/2 Organic Shopping

A day with my aunt shopping in Boulder.  Nostalgic pics, antique spoons, fabulous earrings and a delicious visit to an organic pharmacy.  Dinner at a fantastic French bistro with my last glass of truly amazing wine and delicate mussels. Thanks Deb;).  Can't wait to see you in six weeks!

1/1 12 Days of Christmas

On the 12th day of Christmas and the first day of 2011, we all packed up and said goodbye.  Goodbye to my favorite Leachman Skinner Blue Christmas Holiday to date.  Just can't say how grateful I am to have such a wonderful family. Bittersweet but softened by the fact that I will see my mom and aunt in just under six weeks in Vietnam for my big 40;).

12/31 11 Days of Chrismas

On our 11th day of Christmas together, we celebrated by finishing the gingerbread village - everyone was involved in the construction and design;) including some amazing gum drop trees by my Aunt Debra, playing Allen's "Put for you Life" of which Myler won again with a book no less, and, of course, the finale of finales-fireworks.  We had watched fireworks almost every nite, worked on the gingerbread house every nite and played games every nite.  But tonight was the night ... and it was cold.  So as the ball dropped in Manhattan, we stood outside bundled and cheering for a the best firework show of all. Thanks Dad;)!

12/30 Lazy Day

Fabulous lazy day at the house.  Dad built a zip line in the gingerbread village. "Who Wants to be a Millionaire" Vietnam thanks to Chance's brilliant tech skills.  Only one day left;(.

12/29 Roller Coasters and a Lone Snow Man

Went to the caves and braved a roller coaster on a mountain in the snow - I was only able to watch the latter due to the fact that it was totally CRAZY!;)  My made our one and only snow man of the trip due to lack of snow at the house.  Games, gingerbread construction and a lovely nite by the fireplace one again.  One thing I realize that I love about the states is that I can get hot water anywhere anytime;). Had an incredible steam shower.  However, I do miss my weekly spa visit.  Spoiled here or spoiled there? Hmmm...

12/28 Ice and more Diners

This time last year I was freezing in Jharkhand, but it was nothing compared to the chairlift today.  My and I finished 20 minutes early. Painful as it was to stop, it was just too cold.  Stone and Allen were, of course, the last on the lift.  Mom, Deb and I went to a diner for dinner and drinks.  Had perhaps one of the best nights I've ever had with those two.  I'm sure it didn't have anything to do with the gorgeous bartender;).

12/27 Aspen Cafe

Dropped the Skinners off at Aspen's family friendly Buttermilk Resort - heated ski boats and all. My goodness. Dad, mom, My and I had a little lunch at a lovely crowded cafe in the heart of town.  Only one celeb spotting - John Stamos's wife in Full House.  Meet a wonderful couple who filled us in on all the hot spots in Carbondale. The four "adults" went for drinks that night as we "kids" played connect, or should I say them "kids" played connect.  I failed miserably, but absolutely love the concept.  Want to buy one for Saigon;).

12/26 Saigon Sadness

Up at 7am, looking out at Mount Sopris as the sun rises in front of a fire.  Beautiful.  But some reason, I missed Saigon. Crazy. 

12/25 Speed

Unconventional Christmas.  Brunch at a diner.  And four totally amazing hours with the entire family racing up mountains and speeding through powdery valleys on snowmobiles.  It took me leaving Colorado after 16 years of living there to do this - thank god I didn't do it before.  I would have never left;).

12/24 Movie Madness

Another great day of skiing.   Topped off by a fabulous game night.  I wasn't sure if we were all up to the task, but as soon as Stone and I started, it was clear everyone was game.  Simple enough - act out a scene from one of the top ten Christmas movies.  Team Holly - White Christmas.  Team Mistletoe - A Christmas Carol.  Before I could shout go they were gone.  Mistletoe ended up in the laundry room planning for over 20 minutes.  Holly immediately started applying make-up - think "Sisters".  What I thought would take about 15 minutes took well over an hour.  Pictures up soon as nothing else could demonstrate the incredibly superb acting skills and creative genius of Christmas Eve 2011.

12/23 Ski Ski Ski

Stone and I got to the mountain early and skied all day.  Felt amazing. Started the gingerbread village.  A ten house plan with two mountains, a valley and lake ... so far;).

12/23 Jeopardy by Chance

Skiing.  Intense anxiety over the old school chairlifts was gone the moment I got on them - like I never left.  Stone and Myler took care of me, though, when I was panicking - they were very patient.  My and I had a great lesson together.  Home to drinks, dinner and a fabulous game of Jeopardy designed by Chance and expertly co-hosted by My. I won two hours of technical support;)

12/21 She'll Be Comin Around the Mountain

Hectic morning organizing gifts and bags. Amazing to see the aunt, uncle and cousins.  Off to Carbondale in the late afternoon.  Tunnels closed.  Had to go around and up the mountain.  Six hours, instead of three, later we arrived to fireworks, my little brother Stone dancing in the driveway and surprisingly no snow.  Reunion was fabulous.  Thank god I was able to keep the tears at bay.  Still no reverse culture shock.

12/20 Boulder

Surprised my Nana at the airport.  Spent a wonderful day in Boulder with family.  The highlight, besides seeing my grandmother, was an incredible grilled cheese sandwich in the most beautiful Victorian I have ever seen.  Spent the evening with two close friends in their gallery/home drinking wine and pomegranate margaritas, talking about food, family and community - all of which they are both masters.  Love you Tracy and Kelan.  Awesome day. 

12/19 Echo

Lunch with my Echo ladies.  Amazing.  Malia on Skype from Maui after an hour of technical difficulties.  Incredible to be with everyone, but still feels like I never left.  It will be almost five years since we all talked about where we would be when we are 60.  Now I know, we will all be still be friends, still be Echo.  No matter where we are. No matter what we have become.

12/18 Like I never left

Expectations shattered.  Arrival in Colorado feels like I never left.  Dinner with good friends after 35 hours of travel was incredible.  Wine just tastes better.  Organic food, hot water everywhere. Lovely but just feels normal.  Not better, not worse and definitely not home.  Nor is Saigon.  But I don't think that is the point in my life ... a physical home. Hopefully, my "home" is travel. My "home" is visits with family.  I feel at home in different countries and I feel at home with my family no matter where we are. 

12/17 Transit Luxury

South Korea rocks.  I had a layover for 12 hours and promptly checked into a "transit hotel" where I had the best shower I've had since I've been gone.  Awesome.  The next 12 hours were spent watching 4, yes 4 movies, and then sleeping for about two hours.  Arriving in LA, I felt great especially when I realized I really really really wouldn't be charged $200 for 160 lbs of luggage.

12/16 And I'm off

The 30 hour journey begins.  No bag charges a good sign.  Free wine an even better one;).

12/15 Ao Dia

Wore my Ao Dia for Hoa Binh today.  The principle came in and gave me a hardy handshake,  Merry Christmas and a sweet but awkward "you look so lovely".  The cardinal rule in wearing an Ao Dia is that you must wear you hair down - so I did feel quite "lovely" except for when my motorbike ate the bottom of it;(.  I guess the second cardinal rule is always tuck.

12/14 30/4 again

Christmas coffee with my favorite class of executives at 30/4 restaurant.  Have to take my mom and aunt there.  Lovely view of Independence Palace and the gardens.

12/13 Inflation

Inflation is up to 10% so says the government.  But it's really around 11.5%.  So my lovely Aussie based bank won't sell me any dollars.  Ludicrous and infuriating.

12/12 Excitied

Can't focus. Excited.  Nervous.  Expecting serious reverse culture shock.  Only four days;)

12/11 Hand Stitched Painting

Started the day with 15 of my 20-40 year old corporate students eagerly grabbing out of another class.  They looked like 7 years olds as they presented the most beautiful hand stitched picture of a yellow Vietnamese countryside.  They were adamant that I take it home to show my mom.  Spent the evening with a dear friend sharing secrets and drinking too much wine.

12/10 Dinner at La Maison

Dinner at my 10 year old students house aka weekend apartment on the 26th floor of a highrise just outside of the city.  Didn't know what to expect.  Was greeted with a handmade candy Christmas wreath and many desperate pleadings to play wii.  Ate  yummy cold mussels and a chicken drumstick with chopsticks and a spoon.  Was entertained with magic tricks by an 8 year old and invited to go swimming.  The view was spectacular but the conversation even better.  Left even more convinced and very guilty that he is indeed my favorite student;).

12/9 Ao Dia

My favorite public school gave me the gift of an Ao Dia, a traditional Vietnamese dress,  for Christmas.  Met with one of the teachers to choose fabric.  We then drove down the road to the tailor.  Truly a hole in the wall with no address.  He took about five strange measurements (ie the length of my fingers and wrist to my elbow).  He did not measure my hips or legs.  Two days later I cautiously tried on the pink and black silk to find that it fit perfectly ... and quite beautifully;). 

12/8 Bookstore

Spent my afternoon in a bookstore buying far too many Christmas presents.  Western magazines, calendars, books.  I was in heaven.  The only thing missing was Dwell ... ah Dwell. Only two weeks left;)

12/7 Vietnam Wins!

Motorbikes, red flags, golden drums, pots and pans ... wheelies and reverse wheelies.  For hours.  Vietnam beat Singapore.  I was stuck in Dune for over two hours because the streets were so crazy.  It was perhaps one of the best nights I've had in HCMC.  I inched my bike out into the madness and it took me about a half hour to go a half mile home.  Fabulous.  National Pride on big red and yellow starred flags beaten out on golden drums.  

12/6 Directions

Directions are primarily verbal.  Maps only seem to confuse and inspire more questions.  Okay if you have time ... infuriating on a deadline.

12/5 Vietnamese Sayings

Today I learned one of my first Vietnamese saying "Learn to forget".  Interesting.

12/4 Dryers

I just realized I haven't seen or used a clothes dryer in over a year;).  The great thing is that I haven't missed it.