6/22 We're in!!

The day was a bit stressful as I had to teach two classes - one of them a new format and entirely new students.  The move took a bit longer and was a little more than I expected.  We had to move via taxi.  The first guy wanted to charge us $5 dollars which doesn't sound like much but we stopped him out of principle as it should be less than $1.  So we unloaded and found a metered taxi.  It was a bit crazy and very frustrating.  But by the time Sacha and I opened a bottle of wine later that night on our lovely terrace, all was right with the world and we felt "at home".  Seeing as I haven't had one in ten months, it felt mighty good!

6/21 Gliding

Just can't explain how much I love riding a bike around Saigon.  Granted there are moments of extreme tension .... sometimes even terror especially with the buses and left hand turns across nonstop expansive streets.  But for the most part, riding up on the sidewalk, two inches away from 8 million other bikes, going against traffic, going the wrong way down one way streets, clad in a little helmet and pretty little face and neck mask all feels quite normal and almost natural now;).  I love it and am starting to finally be grateful for Saigon ... everyday.

6/20 Going Away Party

And then there were seven.  Said goodbye to Gabi tonight at our little party restaurant Aroma.  Our CELTA group is getting smaller and smaller.  Sacha and I have decided to have a half birthday in August before everyone leaves;).  If they can do it for Chinese New Year, why can't we?

6/19 Happy Home

We found a lovely house today ... finally.  Three levels, two rooms, two bathrooms, a beautiful kitchen, very high ceilings, lots of light and windows, modern furniture, and a fantastic terrace sitting in the trees.  We move in on Tuesday .... which will hopefully take all of an hour or two as everything I own in Vietnam can fit into my backpack and a few little bags.

6/18 Am I really that shy?

The beautiful Indian man that I have a crush on talked to me tonight.  He waited outside while I was eating and totally caught me off guard.  I stuttered a few words in response and walked very fast to my hotel.  I really don't remember being this shy?  But it did make my day;).

6/16 Half Tet

Worked on the database at Green Bamboo Shelter and was invited for lunch to celebrate Half Tet - or the day that marks the Chinese half year.  Was served a fried tofu noodle pancake that we put into lettuce leaves with basil and some other greens and then dipped into yummy fish sauce.  One of the boys gave my a Bon Bao- a doughy desert to celebrate the day.  Later that night, one of my students brought in fermented rice that was basically just alcohol, red rice that was supposed to be lucky and lychees.  Happy Half Tet;)! 

6/15 Oh Soooo Lost

Left work around 8p, felt pretty confident I could find my way home.  An hour later, I realized I was lost ... oh soooo lost.  While my super power is my sense of direction, the stinky canal is definitely my kripton.  I ended up all the way out by the airport.  After two hours and five stops to get directions later, I finally got home.  Cranky and oh sooo ready for a beer.

6/14 Green Bamboo Warm Shelter for Boys

Visited the Bamboo Shelter today.  I'll be volunteer teaching about 20 street boys English three times a week.  After meeting with Mrs. Phat, we also came up with a plan to set up a much needed database for all of the boy's information. I'll also be helping her to write and edit grants.  It's a perfect balance to teaching.

6/13 First Official Day on a Motorbike

Learned to drive the motorbike around the park while old men and kissing couples watched, laughed and eventually clapped.  It only took about ten minutes and I was out into the sea of motorbikes ... very timid, slow and wobbly, but successfully navigated a few round-a-bouts and even a left hand turn on a eight lane street with my instructor on the back!  However, one hour was enough, so I headed over to Dune to relax and memorize my map.

6/12 Tangy yogurt

Mom you would be in heaven.  There are beautifully decorated tangy yogurt shops everywhere.  I just can't believe I didn't see them before.  I crave one everyday now - probably because they make me think of you and Cali;).

6/11 A little bit of India ... well kind of

Watched Slumdog Millionaire with two of my classes and they loved it.  The words most of the students wanted to know where chai wallah, gang, gangster and silencer - crazy;).

6/10 Dune

Ah Dune Cafe - I spend my breakfast and planning time here everyday.  Thuan, Khoi, Lap, Quan, Dang and Phuong are teaching us Vietnamese and greet us with Cao Chi ( hello elder, yes elder, sister;)). 

6/9 Pham Ngu Lao

Can't wait to get out of Pham Ngu Lao - the backpacker tourist area that I've been living in for 3 months. Ready for a home, ready to go grocery shopping, ready to do my own laundry, ready to have movie nights with Sacha and dinner parties for friends;).

6/8 Normal Day

Work. Errands. Lovely dinner with lovely Chilian red wine and lovely friends.  Then off to see the Prince of Persia.  What a wonderfully normal day .... it's been awhile;). 

6/7 New Class New Neighborhood

New class new neighborhood today.  About a twenty minute bike ride across the toxic canal into a more authentic district.  The class is a bit older, a slightly lower level and so enthusiastic.  We only have three weeks together, but I'm hoping we can all sign on for the next class that would last about 8 weeks. 

6/6 Still miss India

Still miss India everyday.  Typically we as westerners tend to mysticise and exoticise India, but I think I fell in love with real time India.  I can list all the things again and again, but I wish I could describe why I find absolutely everything about that complex challenging beautiful tragic proud country fascinating.  Maybe that's part of it - I love that it's not easy.  I love that everything, the people, the politics, the languages, the food, the history, etc. is so complicated but so incredibly inspiring and amazing..

6/5 Big House No Go;(

Sacha and I have been looking at a beautiful big three bedroom house the last few days.  Big terrace, lovely kitchen, huge living room space.  Our third roommate fell through though, so no go.  Just too bad as it was by far the best place we have seen. 

6/4 Vietnamese Post

Mailed my first package from Vietnam today.  No canvas and red wax;(.  Instead I had to fill out four forms detailing the contents.  The post office itself was beautiful with huge high ceilings and numerous kitschy souvenir stalls.  I was in and out in under a half hour.  I sent it "surface" which means it should arrive around January;).

6/3 Toilet Paper

Most of the Pham Ngu Lau restaurants have little rolls of toilet paper in a funky plastic dispenser in lieu of napkins;).  Toothpicks, ketchup, soy sauce and two kinds of chili sauce are the condiments.  More authentic Vietnamese restaurants don't have salt and pepper of course.  And when you sit down you are given a moist towel to clean your hands.  If your lucky it's cold;). 

6/2 Monsoon on a Motorbike

Drove through my first serious monsoon on a motorbike.  After about ten minutes, my eyes started burn.  As a friend on Facebook said: "Acid Rain: the new Eco-chick body scrub". 

6/1 The Search for a Flat Continues

Still no luck.  Everything is too small, narrow and dark.  Looks like we may have to look at flats further out;(.

5/31 Priceless

Saigon Blue - cool leather helmet with little red rhinestones $3, full face and neck mask $2, motorbike for a month $40, gas $2, riding up onto the sidewalk during rush hour traffic... priceless;).

5/30 Weird Warm Rice

Our favorite little old lady gave us a cup full of sweet weird warm rice paste with bland brown little jelly balls.  We sat and smiled gratefully sipping beer to disguise the taste. Even though we tried and tried to hide our disgust, I think she saw through us.  We haven't been given any since:(.

5/29 Little Ones

Started class with the little ones today.  They are all around 6 years old and so painfully shy.  All of my tricks and games failed miserably so I resorted to coloring which was just what they needed.  They will be a challenge but I look forward to it;).

5/28 Power

So the power goes out at least once a week.  As I write this, it's out again and due to be out for at least 8-10 hours. I'm still mystified by all the black electrical wires.  Actually saw a man walking along them yesterday!  It is unclear if they replace defective wires or just add more.  From the looks of it they just add more;).  Last night it rained and for the first time it felt like a monsoon, we were all stuck in a cafe looking with awe and fear out at the the wires swaying in the downpour. 

5/27 Cafes

Just a note about Vietnamese coffee shops to supplement the rocket fuel post.  They are everywhere.  Big beautiful luxurious multi-level coffee restaurants with huge water features and big beautiful trees, small intimate local cafe sua da stops with metal tables and plastic stools, at least five different Starbuck style chains on every other corner downtown (similar in decor and price or should I say over price) and hip little cafes with Sinatra and Buble playing that make me feel like I'm back in the states.  Definitely one of my favorite things about Saigon.

5/26 New Roommate

New room mate today - Sam the cockroach.  Even though he's quiet and tends to keep to himself, he did insist on taking a shower with me this morning.   Considering he hasn't paid the rent, I am gonna have to ask him to move out;).

5/25 HIghrise flats

More flats today but in sterile highrises on a canal that stinks so bad it burns your eyes - smells like a really bad perm.  Needless to say, we will continue looking. 

5/24 Flats

Sacha and I went to look at our first flat today.  Dark, narrow four story house on a windy narrow street with way too many rooms and resident cockroaches.  We've heard it can take up to two months to find "the perfect place".  Hopefully the perfect place doesn't involve cockroaches. 

5/23 Almost got the better of me today

They almost got the better of me today.  I ended up playing one too many games so by break they were wild and crazy.  By the end of class, almost everyone was in the naughty circle ... including me;).

5/22 First Day teaching

Taught my first class of bright and very fluent, if not a little unruly, 10 year olds today.  I'll only have them for about three months two days a week two hours a day.  Ended only getting through about a third of my lesson plan and already learned a lot about what to do and what not to do.  Thank god I have a teachers assistant;). 

5/21 Rocket Fuel

Rocket Fuel (noun) /raketfjel/ a sinister strong iced coffee. or cafe sua da, with condensed milk served at the Dune Cafe in Ho Chi Minh City.  After drinking one can expect to get the shakes, see double and talk too fast for comprehension.  While cafe sua da is the life blood of Vietnam, this particular concoction is deadly and not recommended if you have to teach or operate moving vehicles;). 

5/20 Ice

Huge blocks of ice show up around 6am to sit covered in canvas in front of a narrow shop.  Restaurants buy small blocks broken off with a huge metal comb. Tiger, Heineken and San Miguel beer is stacked to the ceiling leaving a small space for helmets and a stool.  The coolers piled up outside all seem to be empty.  Considering the amount of energy saved in refrigeration, this seems to be a pretty sustainable service;).

5/19 Vietnamese purse

Thought you would enjoy this Mom.
Contents of my Vietnamese purse in order of importance:)

1. Wallet with thousands of dong, hundreds of business cards and always a dry cleaning ticket
2. Netbook
3. Power cord for my Netbook
4. Map of Saigon - already tattered and torn (will be great to share with the kids;))
5. Smashbox lip gloss (grateful everyday for this by the way) and powder
6. Vietnamese phrase book
7. Jump drive
8. Head phones with mic to talk on Skype
9. Bulgari hand lotion - thanks for sharing

4 out of 9 in technology. Interesting to see where our priorities lie;).

5/18 A Hole in the Road

Day one: a little hole in the road appears outside our hotel
Day two: someone sticks a small bushy broom to stop up the hole - in lieu of a hazard sign?
Day three: a conical hat is placed on the broom
Day four: an old bundle of flowers is stuffed around the bottom of the broom
Day five: the hole is now an art piece;)
Day ten: the hole is sadly filled with dirt;(
...so a hole in the road turned into a little temporary communal art piece ... gotta love Saigon;)

5/17 Strange Fruit

Some of the fabulous fruits of Vietnam:
Dragon Fruit (yummy mild ever so slightly sour), Jackfruit (huge strange taste, not my favorite), Mangosteen (definitely my favorite by far tastes like mango with a lychee texture), Hairy Cherries (I'm pretty sure these are lychees), Sour sop (sour;) and very tasty).
....and of course pineapple and papaya everyday!  

5/16 Floating Villages

Floating villages - huge beautiful homes floating above 50,000 catfish.  Houses on stilts. Sturdy monkey bridges. Little girls selling pastries at a mosque.  A huge stucco home just completed with money from Little Saigon in California.  Broken ATMs makes me think of India. Strangely happy to be back in Saigon on busy Bui Vien - almost felt like home;). 

5/15 Floating Markets

Sat and drank iced coffeetea with Tre in a tightly packed outdoor market waiting for the tour group.  Said our goodbyes and we were off to the floating markets.  There were about a hundred big boats selling produce. Lettuce, squash, pineapple, papaya, and various other things I couldn't identify were tied to 10' poles that served as a kind of advertisement.  Drove to a truly amazing temple that was surrounded by ornate cemeteries on Sam mountain at the Cambodian boarder.  After climbing up the stairs, into a cave beyond statues of Buddha, Quan Yin and various other local deities and ancestors, we finally entered a small mirrored room with golden Buddhas.  It was so startling and so very beautiful that it made me cry;).  I spent the night at a corner cafe in a small low lounge chair watching the motorbikes and all the crazy things they manage to fit on to them. 

5/14 Mekong Monkey Bridge

After about 8 hours of driving, a stop at a coconut candy factory, a lacquer factory that employed the disabled and victims of the war, and a boat ride to a bee farm, I was dropped off on the side of the road and put on the back of Tre's motorbike bound for a night at a home stay.  We drove through stunning lush scenery, tiny crooked bridges and even smaller canal paths to his home on a little delta island at the juncture of two canals.  He introduced me to his mother, father, three daughters, grandmother, aunt, and two sisters.  The house was simple, big, and very open. There were lots of very small hammocks on the long wide porch that sat over the canal. We took a walk along the main canal to meet his wife who was working in their bean fields. We reached a small canal that had a few pieces of very small bamboo tied together.  He looked at me, then the bamboo, laughed and said "Monkey Bridge".  I thought and may have said "WHAT??? You want me to cross that?".  I couldn't even see half of it as it was submerged in the water.  I took a deep breath, took off my shoes and slowly awkwardly and half bent over attempted to cross.  About half way, I thought this is not so .... and the bridge broke.  I fell into the canal, sinking into what felt like quicksand terrified of all the crazy creatures and deadly diseases.  Tre helped me out.  I was soaked and covered in mud, but apparently creature and hopefully disease free. .  By the time we reached his wife, we were all laughing.  I helped to water the beans, then we walked over to some rice paddys and watermelon fields.  Observation: the women were the ones who were doing most of the work.  On the way back, Tre fixed the bridge in about three minutes.  I passed safely and quite gracefully - well compared to the first attempt anything would be graceful;). Dinner was the best meal that I have had since I've been here.  Perhaps one of the top 3 in the last 6 months of being abroad.  Tre sat next to me squatting on his chair and guided me as we ate elephant fish, spring rolls, incredible sour green mangos in a dark rich fish broth, rice, and cold cucumber soup. After dinner, we walked down the same path to his mother-in-laws house/cafe.  All the houses were open.  Most families were watching tv.  Most of the main living rooms were sparsely decorated except for large ornate cabinets with ancestral Buddhist shrines  We then sat and had really strong iced coffee.  As soon as we finished half, he poured green tea to top it off!  It was surprisingly refreshing and good. Thanks to that amazing coffeetea, I lay awake for a few hours grateful for the quiet, the food, and even monkey bridges;).