Final Days;(

We only have about two days left here at Dakshinayan.  It seems we have become so busy ... murals for Class I and II, the Pen Pal Project for Class III and IV, helping Siddarth organize (if you know me, you know how HAPPY I am bout this one;)), ect... I promise to catch up on the blog as soon as I reach Kolkata!  Some slightly sad news, because of visa regulations I may not be able to see the rest of India.  I still have hope though ... anything can happen over the next two months!

1/9 Moral Science

There was a ruckus outside class today.  Then I heard my name.  Kartik had caught a snake ... a beautiful nonpoisonous snake.  After we had a good look, they threw it over the wall.  Most of the snakes are poisonous around here (vipers, cobras, etc...) so they usually get "disposed" of.  After things calmed down, we were off to class.  Both Class IV and I asked for Niti Ratna or Moral Science.  The older students read a story about Mother Teresa and the younger ones read about all the good things that God has given us.  The books are interesting as I don't remember any of their kind growing up or in the western context at least.  They really aren't used anymore but the kids really enjoy them so it seems to be a good way to get them to read English.  Besides Class I loves the sing song poetry of the words.  Never thought I would be a singing dancing teacher;) We had another bonfire with tangy tomato soup (Thanks to Mitali) and soft flaky paratha's (flat bread). Without a doubt, today was a good day;)

1/8 We Must Find Out!

Turns out Dani, Tak, and I are infamous in Godda.  Page 6 of the paper featured a color picture of us waiting in line at the ISB ATM. Caption, "There was a long queue at the ISB ATM today with many foreigners.  Who are they? Why are they here?  Where are they going?  We must find out!"  There has not yet been a follow up article ... to our dismay;).
More importantly, it was admissions today. Most of the old students returned with their parents.  Siddarth sat with each in turn.  Mitali, Dani, Tak and I spent the day writing, reading, bathing, chatting ... Monday the new students are admitted and Tuesday we can begin teaching.  The timetable, or schedule, has been set up.  I will be teaching Class VI in the early morning and Class I in the late morning.  I welcome the structure;) for the next three weeks at least.  Then I go .... to Kolkata, Chennai, Mamallapuram, Pudacherri for my Birthday, Kolkikumari, and Sri Lanka.  I still am unsure what will happen after that due to visa restrictions.  Over the next few weeks, I hope to set up introductions with various NGO's in India and Sri Lanka.  If all goes well, I will be working late summer early fall.  Whether it be in project management or teaching, I have a gut feeling that it will be a grand experience. 
p.s. Miss talking with you Mom.

"Ain't no sunshine..."

Haven't been online due to the lack of sunshine for the last week.  The little we had was needed for the bare necessities;) It got reeeally cold down to 0c/30f ... freezing actually.  But the sun came out in earnest today.  So I will be able to catch up on the last two weeks pretty soon.  Amazing, wonderful, funny, embarrassing and shocking things continue to happen every day.  Can't wait to share them all;)  Basant Pancha Me (Happy 5th Day of Spring)!

1/7 Sparkly Shawls

Bhola, Dani, Tak and I set off for Godda in the morning.  I'm a little ashamed at how excited I am to talk to other foreigners about "the experience".  We stopped to pick up Bhola's wife and little daughter.  Both Dani and Tak speak some Hindi so they break the ice with a few simple words.  In Godda, we stopped for tea but were surprised with an amazing cup of cappuccino!  They sat us down on a little bench and we watched as they frothed milk from a specially rigged pressure cooker.  It was delicious.  After checking Dani and Tak in at the district police station, we searched for an ATM.  We ended up finding one open with a very long line.  The girls shopped a little while we waited buying fantastic sparkly shawls.  This was my third trip to Godda and I feel like I saw familiar faces.  The kids on the balcony opposite the book shop.  The Ayurvedic vendor.  The old man at the sewing machine.  Bhola got us some muri mixed with peanuts from a street vendor.   Then we took a shortcut through a small walkway lined with sari shops - brilliant cloth above and below.  I bought biscuits as I had been craving them during last weeks cold spell.  We returned to another bonfire and stayed up late talking about Dani and Tak's adventures, Bollywood (of course;), ghosts, and the hope of warm weather. 

1/6 I love Coal

It's really hard to believe that I've been here for five weeks! I only have three weeks left on the project.  With the new visa restrictions I don't know if I will be able to really travel in India like I had planned.  I am starting to feel a little anxious but remind myself  to be gentle and have a sense of humor.  Everything happens for a reason and I still have three long weeks in a beautiful ashram in Northeast India.  So, for the moment, I snap out of it;).
The sun came out today - but just for show as it stayed around 10c all day and into the night.  I took some beautiful pictures of some the girls and videos of them singing.  Can't wait to upload!  I broke down around 6p and joined the boys in the kitchen around the tiny coal oven (about 6" wide and 18" high) to warm up my numb toes.  Siddarth, Mitali, Dani and Tak (the two returning Aussie volunteers) arrived around dinner.  They had been traveling all day so quick hello's, introductions, dinner and everyone was off to bed.  I can't wait to talk with the girls about their travels and share experiences and impressions of Dakshinayan.  

1/5 Chalky Frustration

It's getting colder and colder, so I tried to do some silly exercises with Class III in the morning.  Mostly they just looked at me confused - I sure felt a lot better when I was done though;) I read stories and we worked a little on grammar.  I brought out my laptop and played some of my favorite Bollywood songs.  They sat in rapture.  I just wish I had downloaded a bunch of videos.  A note on the classrooms.  I'm really frustrated with the chalk and chalkboards.  It may seem silly but the chalk breaks so easily and the chalkboards are so old that it is hard to write on them.  I wish I had packed a big bag of chalk instead of twenty packets of hand sanitizer;)

1/4 Do Re Mi

As I'm trying to catch up on quite a few days, these will be short and sweet;)  Was able to teach today for an hour in both Class I and III.  This will be the perfect amount of time once we have more structured lesson plans.  Class I struggles after the half hour and their attention wanders outside.  I start drawing pictures on the board, but it wasn't until I started singing, yep singing, that they really got excited.  I sang Frere Jacque (over and over - they loved the tune I think) and Do Re Mi.  But I think their very favorite was when I started dancing - glad there wasn't any camera's around for this one;)

1/3 Washing in 10c

Today being a holiday, or Sunday;), the day is mostly spent in search of warmth. It's only me, Kartik, Bhola, Suman, and the pups on the project.  I do have the luxury of loads of internet time and battery power - I'm shamefully comforted by this.  It's been days since I did any washing as I was waiting for the sun, but I break down and get busy.  It's a whole lot easier than I anticipated.  I'm just afraid it's going to take my clothes a few days to dry.  Ah well I'm surrounded by boys so hopefully I'm not too much of a stinky nuisance;)  Bhola made Chachuri for dinner - I totally forgot about the cold.  Suman ground up ginger, mustard seeds, and garlic into a paste.  This was added to vegetables.  Creamy, slightly spicy, and so so delicious.  Turns out that Bhola is Bengali.  Perhaps this is why he is such a good cook.  He keeps saying that we should all go to America and open a restaurant;)  You would all be in for quite a treat!

1/2 Fidged in the Fog

Neera and Siddarth left before the sun rose for Kolkata.  The fog rolled in early.  Despite the cold damp, there is something so beautiful and strange about it.  It is very very quiet except for the whir of the rice husking machine across the road.  The rice husk mounds have gone from a  little village to a small incorporated city.   Unexpectedly was able to Skype with the family.  Some of the kids were able to chat too and kept asking to see my Mom.  What a huge treat!  After the call, it just seemed to get colder, but I enjoyed it as I sat bundled on the veranda with hot strong tea and biscuits.  I read in the afternoon focused mostly on staying warm.  Ended up that a long walk was the best way to battle the cold.

1/1 New Year Picnic

To celebrate the New Year we all had a picnic today!  About twenty kids pitched in and made kitchardi (?), a daal and lentil soup.  They set up the fire, brought all the water, cut the vegetables and still managed to play soccer;)  As the soup was simmering, Bhola did a little mowing of the grass Indian style which means setting a random fire and letting it just go.  The first time I saw this I was sure there was going to be a massive wild fire.  However, each time the fire stayed surprisingly docile clearing a small piece of the land.  The Indian lawnmower, inexpensive and efficient - who would have known;)? I have some great videos that I will upload in a few weeks.  I was still feeling a little bad and was trying to follow the BRATT (Banana, Rice, Apples, Teas and Toast) regime - I suspect Siddarth kept telling Suman to sneak those raw banana's into my kitchardi but with a little lime it was delicious.  I also found that grated apple, lime, and ginger is wonderful when you need to take care of your tummy!  The night ended chatting with Neera and hearing her stories about teaching teenagers in Delhi.  She likes to treat them as "live bombs" - I love it.  It's pretty amazing to talk to someone who lights up like a child when she talks about a career that she has had for over thirty years - there is hope for me yet;)

12/31 Blue Moon Bonfire

Last night was another sleepless night.  But at one point I went out side, it was completely silent.  The moon was almost full and the light was soft but bright.  The ground looked like white sand.  I felt like I was walking on the bottom of the ocean.  It rained a bit but very gentle rain.  It hit the tin roof so softly it was actually comforting.
During class, I brought out some maps I got in Kolkata for the class rooms.  Siddarth had a large world map laminated for Class IV, so I thought I would add a few more.  For only $3, I got two India Political Maps, one India Geography, one World and one Jharkand map in Hindi.  They are only about 11"x14" but I think they will be useful. Besides today we were reviewing nouns, so it was perfect to list all the places we could find.  Everyone, least of all me, had a hard time finding Godda (the closest town);).  At break Rekha and Lata sang for me.  They showed me a song to Ganesha in their notebook - but it was in the Devenagari script in Hindi so I talked them into singing it for me.  I will post the video as soon as I can! Just lovely.
To celebrate the New Year, we are having another bonfire.  I can't wait, not just because of the food, but simply for the heat.  It's starting to get a bit colder each day.  I end up eating one two many daal pakoris (lentil, tumeric, cumin, scallions, cilantro rolled into little balls and fried) and the warm Pepsi tastes really good! By the time we all wander away from the fire it is almost 10pm!  I went to sleep with a raging party in my tummy but honestly was willing to pay the price;)

12/30 Ubuntu Rocks!

I didn't get any sleep during the night so I sleep most of the morning.  Early afternoon, Siddarth returned with Nira Kapur, one of the Dakshinayan Board Members.   She has been a teacher in Delhi for 33 years and has a fascinating perspective and even better stories.  After a few minutes though, Siddarth breaks out the two donated laptops that Bhola picked up in Ranchi last week.  It was pretty funny because we all went silent as soon as we had some technology in front of us.  Turns out (Chance you are going to love this;)!), they have installed Ubuntu as the operating system.  I'm thrilled.  Before I left Chance and I had tried to download to my Netbook but ran into problems as I didn't have a CD drive.  The operating system is really simple, intuitive and free!  For those of you that don't know about it,  please check it out www.ubuntu.com.  As the website says, "Ubuntu is an African word meaning 'Humanity to others', or 'I am what I am because of who we all are'". By the time dinner rolls around, my energy and attention span are simply gone so I opt for bed and another sleepless nite. 

12/29 Ferocious Spiders

My determination was slightly distracted by some very tasty parathi's today but it was worth a sleepless night;)  Today there were only 20 students and a short day.  So I decided to clean and reorganize the kitchen.   I dusted and polished.  Organized and scoured.  Kartik helped to sweep and move shelves.  At one point I was almost attacted by a very ferocious spider.  I didn't know spiders had teeth;)!  Well, this one was out for blood.  Thank god for Kartik who rangeled the poor thing out of my site.  After I stopped screaming, we finished up only to find that Suman is indeed returning.  Before I came back from Calcutta, it turns out that his wife appeared at the walls of the project.  Suman decided to go back to her and then she up and leaves again.  Who needs soaps or Bollywood when you have the Song of Suman? Current Status: He wants to come back.  I really don't know whats going on except that when I go back into the kitchen, everything is back to where it used to be - the only difference being a little extra shine and a lot less dust;)

12/28 Diagnosis: Delhi Belly

Safely back on the project, I wake up Monday happy but my tummy is very upset.  It's easily ignored seeing the kids.  There are only about thirty students as this week is really light with more games and fun time than real studying.  We all do a US Map puzzle that I brought.  I probably had as much fun if not more than they did;).  But by the afternoon, I'm down for the count.  After I wake up, Bhola, Kartik and I share our favorite music.  At sunset, sleepy and cranky, I go to bed early determined to feel better.

12/27 Very Population Part II

Around midnight we stop and the movie stops.  It seems that half the population of Jharkhand boards.  They pack so many young men and women, babies, and old men and women into the bus that they are literally standing on the arm rests.  Siddarth and Mitali had suggested that I buy two seat tickets for this very reason.  I had a moment of really ugly guilt but my conductor said I was not allowed to give up my seat. After the movie, we all tried to sleep.  Two hours in I was basically a pillow with someone at my feet, on my lap and at my head.  Given that it was really cold and there was no conventional heater, the extra bodies were a blessing in disguise;).  I really couldn't sleep though.  So by the time I reached my destination, I was really ready to be in the sanctity of the project.  Bhola got me some hot tea - I didn't realize how cold I was. and within two hours we were back.  A little alu and I hit the sack. I woke up in the afternoon.  Even though I have only been here under a month, it just felt so comforting to be back;)

12/26 Push on this Button

Siddarth called this morning with an invite to lunch so I headed off to meet them at BarbQ - a wonderful Indian and Chinese Restaurant.  As we said goodbye, they all look extremely worried as I take down the bus details.  Considering my traveling skills over the last few days I don't blame them;).   Walking to the Internet cafe, I was reminded of the passage in Culture Shock advising to walk on the streets NOT the sidewalks.  Even though you have to dodge cars, motorcycles, rickshaws, buses, bicycles, etc... it is a whole lot safer than what you have to dodge from above and below on the sidewalk;)  I saw some interesting graffitti - a "Push on this button" (button = a hammer and cycle)".   West Bengal is run by the Communist Party.  Nearby there was also a group of men sitting around the entrance of a small house all wearing pink shirts.  I haven't yet found out if this was a particular caste or Communist Party members.  As we drove out of the city I saw another "Push on this button" tag except this time the symbol was a flower.  After I checked out of my hotel, I heard the drumming I had heard a few nights earlier.  Turns out it is a roving band of drummer boys.  They immediately eye the tourist and for a moment I'm sucked in surrounded by eight boys all with different kinds of drums.  However, they evaporate once they realize there is no hope for any ruppees. I get another slightly overpriced irritated taxi cab to Babu Ghat Bus Stop and pray for the best.  Siddarth calls while we are sitting in traffic just to make sure I'm on my way.  I'm pretty shocked when we reach the right destination and even more surprised that I can find the correct bus.  It's dark by now.  There is no bus station, no legible (legible to me;))signage and dozens of buses.   Siddarth has called ahead to make my reservation and assured me that the conductor and ticket salesmen know of my arrival.  He says, "You would be surprised to know that I always know where my volunteers are".  Somehow I go directly to the correct table where a few men sit behind tea stands and food vendors.  I look at them questioningly and they nod.  I'm still amazed that I got on the right bus.  Siddarth seems to be pretty amazed too;)  I settle in anxiously waiting to see which movie they are going to play. It's Krrish with my absolute all time favorite Hrithik Roshan! So today,  I just want to say thanks for relatively scrupulous taxi drivers and the superb dancing skills and devastatingly good looks of Mr. Roshan;)

12/25 The Guru of Dance

I left early from the hotel to have some tea, get my presents wrapped in New Market and watch the sunset from the rooftop. After I finally found someone willing to wrap my gifts, I had to wait another twenty minutes watching them slowly wrap with deliberation if not expertise.  It took two people and lots of tape.  Sitting on the roof, the city seemed so much larger at dusk. Huge hawks darted in and out of the iron railing.  After the sun went down, I tentatively went to catch a taxi giving myself ample time to get lost;).  Two cabbies flat out refused and the other three wanted rates up to three times the normal fare - all refusing to run the meter of course.  My getting lost time was  pretty much gone by this time so I took the next cab regardless of the fare.  While he claims to know my destination, as we get closer, he has to confirm with a shopkeeper.  We stop in front of a house that I thought looked similar to Mitali's and indeed one of the gentlemen waved at me.  So I got out, payed the fare and went to join the group.  However, as I walked up to the crowd I didn't recognize one single person.  One woman stepped out and kindly asked me if I needed help.  I declined saying I would call my friends.  I walked out to the main street unable to get Siddarth or Mitali.  I ask a few folks which way to go but am leery, not of there directions but of my capacity to understand them;)  In the end I find Mitali's house.  Turns out their power is out.  So Siddarth and I sit and talk in the dark as they get ready.  After driving over the bridge to the party, we get out on a little street lined with sleepy shops and dark small homes.  Walk down a windy path lined with cramped little three to four story houses and enclosed courtyards with towering  trees.  It's really lovely - a mixture of a medieval city in Europe and certain neighborhoods in Cairo.  We arrive at the little house that is Suman's Dance studio. We enter the court to find a cook outside stirring a large hardia (pot).  Bartenders are waiting inside.  Suman wisks in wearing a beautiful vest and tie and promptly wisks out again.  We go and sit in the dance studio.  Everyone is quietly sitting in chairs against the walls except for the mirrored wall where a man is video taping with a light bright as the sun.  Most of the twenty or so people are wearing western clothing.  Thank god there are a few women wearing Indian style clothes.  I guess it is quite typical for westerners to show up wearing Indian style clothing to find Indian's wearing western clothes;)  Mitali assures me that I don't look silly, so I relax in my pink Salwar Kameez and am happy to hear it's time for a drink.  One of the women shouts at me "I saw you! I know you!"  Turns out it was the woman who had offered to help me earlier and it was her husband who had waved at me!  Small small world in a city of ten million my goodness.  Suman turns on the music and grabs one of the women for a waltz.  The evening progresses with other dances - cha cha, rumba, the swing, etc.  It's fantastic and just a little surreal to be sitting in this lovely little Christmas decorated studio tucked away somewhere in Calcutta watching Indian's boogey and salsa the night away.  So we drink for a few hours than eat - a lot of both;)  They served whiskey, rum, and vodka with soda, Sprite or Pepsi.  After about two hours and a few drinks, Suman invited everyone up to dance.  A little salsa and before I know it I am dancing the Merengue with Suman!  Except for a few moments of self conscious "1,2,3 ... 1,2,3"'s, I relaxed and absolutely loved it.  I typically have a very difficult time following, but I didn't have time to think about it too much and besides the rum had loosened up my inhibitions a bit.  I really could have stayed and danced the night away.  As we all ate, Suman turned on the Bollywood music and kept loading my plate with food.  I really couldn't finish and got some very very concerned looks as I returned a plate with food still on it.  In the cab home, Mitali and I both conferred that for some reason we couldn't take the smiles off our faces;)  Merry Christmas with an extra helping of Merengue!