12/24 What? It's in English?

More of my favorite breakfast with extra email;)  I hover around the internet cafe hoping to catch my family online.  Time rolls around to meet Siddarth and Mitali for the movie.  I grab a cab outside of New Market - Calcutta's Grand Bizarre.  He asks about five people where the Forum is.  I have hope.  He seems genuine.  After about a half hour, I get a call from Siddarth asking where I was.  Just passed Science City.  What?  Turns out my impeccable sense of direction and excellent communication skills get me lost ... again:).  I was warned well in advance of the treachery of the taxi.  You win some and you lose some to taxi fare.  Eventually I get to the cinema, the cabby is a little richer;) no harm done though (seems to be another mantra). Turns out we are seeing Avatar.  Both Mitali and I thought it was a Hindi film.  We have a good laugh and try to enjoy the movie.  More wandering and of course hovering around the cafe.  I finally catch the family and we get to Skype.  Much needed and so incredible to see everybody's faces.  Throughout the day, I sat and listened to all the other tourists blow horns, sing carols, talk to relatives .... my turn rolls around so Merry Christmas and off to bed early.

12/23 Cotton Floss and Skinny Santas

Toast, tea and Internet for breakfast.  I then walk to meet Mitali for a little clothes shopping.  I've been wanting to get a few salwar kameez' both for traveling and a nicer one for the party on Xmas:)   I opt to take a rickshaw - not auto but human - something I always said I would never do.  But it is very common in Calcutta and I really didn’t know where I was going.  Ends up neither did he;)  I hop in and for a few blocks have a seat high above the crowds, cars, and candy vendors. He tried to charge me five times the correct amount and for only taking me a sixth of the way!  I gave him twenty rupees and take a deep breath.  Calcutta traffic is deadly!!! However, it is much easier to navigate than Delhi ... regardless of the confusing signage. The walk is pretty effortless so I arrive a bit early.  After entering through metal detectors,  we shop in what looks like a mini Macy's.  Mitali helps me to find a few outfits.  Trying them on is pretty comical though.  The pants have very tiny tight foot holes.  After our purchases, Mitali heads out to get our movie tickets for tomorrow and I wander back to the hotel.  Sightings: A green parrot eating a bright red chili.  Cafe Coffee Day or India's Starbucks.  A few fast food restaurants - Mom, I filmed McDonalds for you;).  Cotton Floss Stands.  Tempting street food.  Dreadlocked backpackers. A handsome man from Orissa (There are millions of handsome men - This one just happened to stop and chat).  Lights, lights and more lights all for Christmas.  I hear drumming as I get cleaned up in my room.  Dinner and beer on the roof.  The crowd is a mixture of local and tourist.  The service good.  But I return for the view.  The day went too fast though and I don't feel it's wise to wander around alone at night.  So I fall asleep to Bollywood music videos. That'll do any day;)

12/22 Do crows talk in Kolkatta? Only if you haven’t slept in a day in a half

Early am, I was very entertained by Mitali’s little kitten, Booku, who kept peeing on all of Siddarth's things while totally ignoring mine. No harm.  Everything got all washed up;) Tea and toast with Mitali, her husband, Raj, and Siddarth and I’m off in a taxi to find a hotel.  I have a few ideas and look forward to wandering around.  Seems to be washing hour as lots of men in blue checkered sarongs wash at water pumps on the sidewalks. After two hours of walking up and down the same street and looking at overpriced, dirty, or booked hotels, the excitement has turned into bleary eyed sleep deprivation.  There are no street signs and if there is an address, there is usually and old English name and a new Bengali name.  People are helpful but even hand gestures are different so sometimes I go straight when I should have gone left.  Skinny Santa Claus' are everywhere.  I try to stay focused and calm but when the crows start talking I get a bit nervous;)  Thank God I finally find Sudder Street - the backpacker hotel area and eventually find Hotel Ashreen.   I have to wait an hour to see if there is a room.   I find a a little café, Blue Sky Café, and have toast and tea.  I return with good news and am taken up to a wonderful little corner room with two windows with a view of old colonial buildings, banana trees and partially built office buildings.  I really like Calcutta so far.  It feels like an Indian Paris.  The curtains and molding of my room give it and me some much needed charm.  I watch a little tv and am out.  I make myself wake up and have dinner at Blue and Beyond (Blue is everywhere;)), a great restaurant on the ninth floor rooftop of Hotel Lindsey.  I felt quite at home.  I have realized that if I can get a view of the city whether it be from a bridge, a rooftop, a hill, whatever, it helps me to understand it more.  It helps me to feel more comfortable. So I go back to bed and notice gratefully that the crows have stopped talking;)

12/21 Buses with Personality

Today was the result and report card Assembly.  Everyone is nicely dressed up.  Siddarth looking smart and Mitali in a beautiful blue (maybe it was green;)) Salwar Kameez.  Siddarth, Mitali and I line up in front of the temple and the kids line up as they do every morning for Assembly.  Bhola takes pictures.  Even though I have only been with these kids for two weeks, I feel so excited when Sumaniti gets first in class and so very sad when Krishna fails - just to name a few.  Only seven women and one father attend.  Mitali says this could be because it is a market day.   We have a special lunch of black eyed peas, rice and daal.  Siddarth can tell that I really like them and continues to fill my plate.  This will be the last meal until Calcutta so I guess it’s a good idea to fill up:)  The afternoon is spent chatting and packing.  I take another walk and shower.  By the way, I was very intimidated by bucket showers but after the first few awkward attempts they are quite lovely.  Suman heats up a large bowl of water everyday after lunch.  So the shower is warm but invigorating.  I even manage to get a bit clean! Six of us pile into Bhola’s little taxi (Just a little bigger then my Mom's trunk btw;)) headed to Godda to catch the bus.  On Saturday’s trip, I noticed that certain villages seemed to be making baskets others pottery.  One village in particular was making beautiful bamboo baskets.  Siddarth says that years ago the villages did specialize but for various reasons the specialization has blurred. More on this later. The bus station is total chaos and I’m very grateful to have friends to rely on. Some of the buses are totally decked out with colored neon flashing lights.  They all have multiple pictures of gods, goddesses, and guru's on the front dash.  Myrrh is burnt to keep away the mosquitoes.  Mitali and I take the two front seats.  I get the window to enjoy the view at dusk.  Ends up they usually play a movie or two around midnight!  However, they are usually more masculine and violent.   Siddarth and Mitali are both happily surprised though when they play some beautiful Hindi music instead of the usual piercing pop.  I get lost in days dreams or dusk dreams until it is too dark to see anything.   Ends up Siddarth has asked the conductor if he will play a movie with Hrithik, Abhishek or Ajay!  They don’t have any, but will buy some at the next stop.  Lovely!  So around 11p they put in Zameen with Abhishek and Ajay.  It’s a good movie but keeps poor Mitali up.  I tried to sleep after wards but just couldn’t. Arriving in Calcutta, we cross over the Vidyasgar Setu bridge.  Very exciting as it was in one of my favorite movies Yuva.  Also with Abhishek and Ajay.  Okay enough Bollywood;)  By the time we get to Mitali’s, I’m really awake but can’t do anything or go anywhere for a few hours so read and watch the news with Siddarth. Interesting note on Indian politics:  Gujurat is the first Indian state today to pass a law requiring mandatory voting!

12/20 Fruits and Roots

Every few days, Sumun makes a yummy little flat savory pancake with cilantro and scallions.  They are similar to a vegetarian omelet and are served with tomato sauce. I decline the sauce and everyone is shocked that an American doesn’t want ketchup;).   After breakfast, Mitali and I talked about our animals.  It was fun to hear stories about her life in Calcutta.  Made me think of little Soph;) Feeling a lot better today but still took it easy in the morning.  Mitali, Bhola and Siddarth set the report cards.  Twenty students out of around eighty have failed.  Some will come back some will not.  I notice that the parents are listed as guardian.  I ask the Hindi word and find that it translates to “He who thinks of him at the moment”.  Goes back to the fact that there is only now in Inida.  Only aaj.  Yesterday and tomorrow are both kaal and almost irrelevant.  After lunch, I take a long walk around the project.  Even though I was sick for only a few days, its really good to feel well and even better to eat.  Siddarth breaks out the dried mango that I wasn't able to eat the other day.  It's delicious.  Just like fruit leather, it is only sun dried juice - sweet and tangy yummm.  I have fasted before but eating after three days has never been so good. I go and watch Sumun in the kitchen.  He tells me names for all the spices then brought out a root that looked like ginger but was orange.  I got so excited to see something new - turns out it was raw turmeric.  As always it is the small things;)

Xmas in Calcutta Pictures

I'll be posting the blog soon;) just wanted to get these uploaded while I had excess electricity and bandwidth;) 

12/19 Bonfire and Xmas Cake!

Feeling a bit better today as Bhola and I head to Godda to buy the new Hindi books.  We usually stop at Bhola’s house on the way in Devdan.  His oldest daughter has been giving me sour little looks but today I got a smile.  We stop at the Ayervedic store for more supplies.  I go inside sit have some really good strong tea and watch my first Hindi tv.  Bhola tells them I love the movies so he turns to a music video channel.  Abhishek in Delhi 6.  Awesome.  I’m pretty low energy though and stay in the car for some of the errands.  Not quite up to be surrounded today;)  However, I go with Bhola to buy the books, sit down and wave at some of the kids I had seen the week before.  A school bus drives by and within a few minutes the girls have ambushed me.   Gratefully though because they are so friendly and curious.  One asks for my autograph then there are a dozen notebooks in and around my face.  I have a hard time signing but a leader emerges and tells the girls to wait their turn.  We then go to the post office to mail about thirty postcards.  It would have cost about $30!  So I decide to send only a few to those people that don’t get email or read blogs;)  We buy some sun dried mango juice but my tummy is just not ready for anything crazy …. Not like I need anymore raw banana’s though;)!   We get back around three.  I rest a bit then go and help Bhola and Sumum get ready for the bonfire.  Bhola makes Pakoris and Sumun makes my very favorite Muri (puffed rice, chilies, scallions, cilantro, tomatoes, - I will post the recipe soon cause you have to try it!!) There is Xmas cake and warm pepsi.  Quite a little celebration.  I’m really only about 60% but at this point who cares.  How can I pass up pakoris and muri;)  I indulge and its just so very good.   Siddarth plays some music and with the light and warmth of the fire it’s a lovely late night. 

12/18 Raw Bananas Again?

I wake up still feeling sick so decline breakfast.  I am given the exams for Class I and II and also give dictation.  I’m a little cranky but manage to mime most of the words to help the students.  The kids seem to understand but when I look at the results the opposite proves to be true.  I help to grade the papers.  But as soon as I’m done I go to sleep. Mitali wakes me up saying that I need solid food.  So I get a lunch of rice and boiled raw bananas!  I was a little horrified as I don’t like bananas but they really just tasted like bland potatoes.  Then I go swiftly back to bed.  Dinner is also rice and raw bananas.  And I try my hardest to eat the whole thing but am full and still just not right.  Mitali and Siddarth are so genuinely concerned that I’m sick and discuss every possible means of getting me well.  However, I break down and take one of the travel kit medicines that I have and of course go to sleep early. 

12/17 Banana Flowers for lunch!

Today was Social Studies and Science for the upper classes and English for Nursery.  I give dictation - only ten words and it's very difficult for them.  More importantly they want “Time, Time” and all grab for my watch.  Once gone I help with the other classes.  When the students are done, they help to clean up, water, etc… I stop by to get some water in the kitchen (btw one of my concerns was the availability of water which has not been a problem as they have a water filter that is always full thanks to Sumun)  He seems to be preparing something very strange - a big red pod when opened reveals delicate white leaves.  Turns out it is banana flowers which are really baby bananas.  They are cooked in spices and absolutely delicious.  A little bitter alone but when mixed with rice delicious!  The texture is similar to artichoke leaves but more delicate.  For the second time since I arrived, I attempt to wash my clothes.  I had watched Sumun trying to pick up some technique, but wasn’t very successful;) So I took my sweet time and probably way too much water, but enjoyed the view.  At one point, I could here soft voices behind me and saw a girl smiling or more likely laughing at tmy attempt.  At dusk, we had visitors again.  On my visits to the markets I had noticed many small turbaned men pushing bicycles carrying huge dirty black loads sweating and intensely focused on keeping the weight steady.  Turns out they haul coal.  The weight that they push carry is extraordinary and sometimes for very great distances.  Also turns out that Bruni and the pups have to be relocated, but they will go to the safety of Sumun’s room so all is well.  After tea and a brief discussion of the illegal coal mines, Bollywood takes over.  Siddarth plays some of his favorite music from his cell phone - some of which I recognize.  I have a surreal moment while listening to one of my favorite songs from K3G and am overwhelmed by the night sky, the music, and the fact that I really am in India.  Dinner rolls around and I’m still not feeling well so I go to bed early … happy … but early.

12/16 Earth Movers

Maths Exams today.  I help to monitor Nursery mostly.  Most of the students at the least struggle at the most barely understand the instructions.  I have gotten a cold  and may have a little stomach bug so my afternoon is really lazy.  I lay on a cot in the sun reading The Argumentative Indian - makes me think of Siddarth and Dr. Trehan.  Most exchanges seem to be argumentative but this is natural.  An intrinsic part of communication in India it seems.  At dusk, a tractor arrives towing dirt that Siddarth had purchased over six months ago.  Three very young teenage girls shovel the dirt out of the truck in the complete darkness while the driver, also very young, watches.  Sumun yells at me "Torch, Torch" and so I take a small light out to help them see.  I feel ineffective and lame as I watch them sweat in outfits similar to saris.  By dinner I’m really tired and a bit sick but still have my ghostbuster so go to bed feeling safe;)

12/15 Who ya gonna call?

Today I helped to monitor the first exam in Hindi.  I also take attendance which I love of course because I can familiarize my self with the names and pronunciations of the kids.  I‘m still a bit clumsy but as always they are so patient  After about an hour and half, everyone is basically finished.  The afternoon is spent prepping for the rest of the exams.  I take a little run around the ashram in the afternoon.  Someone plays flute outside the walls making me think of Krishna.  Two little boys pop their heads up and laugh as I sweat, huff and puff around the perimeter.  As mentioned it’s very hazy this time of year, but on clearer days you can faintly see hills to the south east.  This is where C.H.E.O. (Children Health Education Organization) is.  Siddarth was and still is involved with this project.  One of the teachers visited Siddarth the other day - I was shocked to learn that he was in his 50’s I would swear he looked like he was 30.  Siddarth says they don’t grey.  Interesting.  I will hopefully get to visit the project in January.  Tea is served around 4p (actually tea always seems to be served;) but this tends to be a nice time to convene on Siddarth’s veranda.  I break out the dried kiwis and chocolate covered pomegranates that Shawn showered me with the night before I left.  The kiwi’s were a hit!  After tea, Siddarth initiates a slightly heated debate about the current state of ecopolitics. I feel a little naïve and maybe too optimistic but enjoy the conversation.  More on his perspective later as it is pretty fascinating and unique.  The mosquitoes have started to show up and I panic for a brief moment.  Returning to my room, I frantically search for my purple bag (I have color coded bags for different things: i.e. purple- mosquitoes and sun, yellow -first aid, blue - vitamins and protein, green - toiletries, etc.;)) I slather on the organic spray that Christy gave me regardless of the fact that I’m taking anti malarial medication.  I notice however that the window to my room is for the third time open.  Returning to the veranda, I casually mention that there is a ghost in my room.  Siddarth and Mithali start with the questions.  Do you really believe in ghosts? Yes.   How many times was the window opened? Etc.   After dinner, Siddarth and Bhola promptly investigate.  However, securing the window is not enough.  Even though I tell them, I am not scared, it is agreed that Bhola will sleep in the adjacent room.  I really thought they were kidding.  Nope.  So in addition to my protective mosquito net, I now have a ghostbuster sleeping in the next room.  I am finding that people are genuinely concerned about you here and will do everything they can to make sure you are taken care of.  Even if it means dislocating to combat a mischievous ghost;)

12/14 Snakes Oh My

Today is review day for exams, but I still don’t  know what that really means so I feel a little inadequate.  But again the kids are great and tell me what they want to learn.  This will change when I come back from Calcutta as I hope to be a little more proactive.  Help with lesson plans, etc.  Siddarth is going to have some of the Class V kids teach Nursery, Class I, and Class II.  The volunteers will then focus on the upper classes.  This makes sense as the lower classes really need the consistency and discipline of a regular teacher.  Turns out that sometime after I went to sleep, a snake fell on Siddarth.  While no one was harmed, they have asked Bhola to help me set up my mosquito net.  In just a few minutes, I had a sturdy contraption made of bamboo with my net secured over it - very nice.  I feel really safe not just from snakes but from any creepy crawly creatures.  I spend the entire afternoon and early evening setting, or writing, the English exams for Nursery, Class I, Class II, and Class III.   I don’t even realize how tired I am and don’t remember falling asleep after dinner.  ps please forgive all the errors;)  I have very little time to post let alone edit. 

12/13 Singing Sumun

I woke up to the song of Suman.  Bhola and Siddarth went to pick up Mitali in Godda.  Siddarth had mentioned that Sumun tends to be not quite as grave and restrained when he is away.  I finally found him still singing and dancing in the kitchen.  Great way to wake up;) Sumun's Story (in brief): He is an orphan whose unconsummated marriage ended with his wife leaving him for another man.  He has been working for Siddarth for about a year - cooking, cleaning, doing laundry, etc.  He has the tribal tattoo on his forehead and an unruly little beard.  His family were cow herders so he will probably eventually buy a few cows with the salary money that Siddarth is saving for him.  After breakfast, I help him clean up.  He goes through the Hindi newspaper pointing out certain stars, some words, and “God” or any man that looks holy.   I write out a story in English and drew some pictures in his notebook.  He’s a fast learner.  Mitali arrives late morning with gifts!  A Bollywood magazine, nail polish, and most importantly - nail polish remover;)!  We talk Bollywood for awhile - I'm in heaven.  Mitali is very informed;)  Everyone heads off for a nap after lunch but I sit in the swing and get lost in the glossy pictures of my favorite hero’s.  Escapism is okay in moderation right;)?

12/12 Thank God for Saturday classes!

Given that classes are so short, it is a blessing that we have class on Saturday.  The kids are quite demanding but I like it and am gaining more and more confidence.  Some interesting notes about the kids - I have noticed a few of the girls (maybe 10 yrs old or so) have tattoos.  Siddarth said that the tattoo on the forehead is a caste mark and some of the girls get necklace tattoos but was unsure of their significance or at what age they get them.   I guess the girls marry as early as 12 and usually have babies soon after. As with the villagers, picture taking is a hit.  As soon as the camera comes out, everyone is vying for attention.  Donning turbans, flowers, or yelling “Didi, Didi” (trans. sister) to grab my attention.  When the battery runs out, I resort to running around and tickling them.  This has been almost as popular as the camera;)  Some of the names: Lata, Parvati, Stella, Poonam, Pooja, Bindu, Pinki, Anuj, Anand, Dinesh. We play Karam, a board game like pool with flat disks worth varying amounts of rupees. I tried to play but my fingers are just to big and clumsy. Jump rope (only one for the whole school:(), football (soccer), and a form of hopscotch are also played.  The kids help to clean classrooms, water plants, take care of the trees, and cut grass. Tomorrow is Sunday and considering all the hard work done during the week it is deemed a holiday.  Not bad having a holiday every week;)

12/11 Rice Harvest treats

Today we all seemed to be more comfortable with each other.  We played during break, took videos and pictures during some of the work hour until Bhola asked for my camera  and turned it off - with a smile of course;).  Since I’m trying to catch up on a few days, I thought I’d talk about the food.  Breakfast is typically a small portion of spicy potatoes and wheat tortillas, or chapaitis.  Lunch consists of mostly rice covered in a daal, or lentil soup (Bhola and Suman must eat more rice than their body weights combined) and a small serving of curried vegetables.  I have only attempted to eat with my hands once as I’m really messy and most of the food ends up on the floor.  It will just take a little practice.  You have to use your fingers like a scoop.  Dinner is similar to lunch.  Sometimes a special vegetable is made - fried eggplant, saag, or spinach, French fries.  An interesting note: Siddarth is always served first, then myself, Bhola and Sumun in order. Tonight, Bhola brought some yummy rice dumplings his wife made to celebrate the rice harvest.  They were filled with milk, sugar and jaggery or date syrup! Sweet ending to a full day.

12/10 MMMMotorcycle

Played more badminton with the kids before assembly.  I felt a little more comfortable with the format today but still don't feel as though I have a handle on what I should be teaching as they will be taking exams next week.  The students guide me.  They tell me which subject and page.  We read, I write on the board, I ask them for words in Hindi.  At break, the girls ask me to bring out the nail polish, bindi's and earrings.  Before I know it, I am bindied, painted and earringed - sadly with no nail polish remover.  Class V only has six students so it allows more time for the individual.  I really wish I had more time with them, but after next week they will probably be gone.  Thursday is a big market day in Chartisgart (I will have to revise this spelling), so Bhola and I are off again to do some shopping.  We end up taking Siddarth's motorcycle which at first seems like a fun but five minutes into the ride I was thinking "what was I thinking"!;)  The roads are dirt and rocky, rutted and steep at times.  Regardless, Bhola is an excellent driver and we arrive safely.  The market is packed.  It's been very interesting to see three different markets in three consecutive days.  City, village, and town.  The faces here are a little more reluctant to smile, but once they do they beam.  I am such a tourist but at this point just have to be gentle with myself and allow it.  I take pictures and videos of everything.  The man making tea with five different bubbling pots.  The little shop stalls with a backdrop of brilliant mustard plants.  The man with a monkey sitting on his head.  The painted markings on the buildings that say the area is polio free.  The serious baby in the shiny fluffy red suit with dark black eyeliner. ... and so much more.  We go to leave and the bike won't start.  Bhola leaves me in front of one of his friends shops.  I start to get a little nervous, but then realize there is nothing to be done.  I have some more tea and listen to the hindi music from the adjoining stall.  The bike is fixed after a few minutes and we are back to the project.  Siddarth tells me about the Gotra's in Indian society.  A Gotra is kind of like your lineage.  A woman must marry out of her Gotra, etc... He then shares a little about his.  Tracing it back what could be thousands of years.  And I thought my Grandmothers genealogy back to Charlemagne was impressive;)  I try to help Sumun wash the dishes but am a little slow and clumsy.  I really enjoy pumping the water though.  It's the little things.  Their are two wells on the project or ashram.  The one we use for the kitchen pumps out warm water and is quite lovely at night.  Off to bed, very tired as usual, but excited for the next day with the kids.

12/9 Badmitton and Bindi's

Got to play badmitton with the kids this morning.  Worked up quite a sweat!  The kids are wonderful constantly asking questions, wanting validation, helping me with Hindi words and there smiles and laughter there really isn't much better (except for the Trips of course;)).  Again classes go by too fast.  I was able to get online a bit, email, and blog.  We are running off two solar power chargers.  One is for phones and cameras and the other for laptops.  So I get a charger every three days or so.  Siddarth has a wireless usb that works great - just not quite fast enough to upload videos or skype.  Siddarth is still very ill but manages to talk to me about spirituality.  Everything I've read and studied, on a dusty porch on a quiet afternoon in just under a half hour.  Pretty profound really.  Around 3p, Bhola and I take a walk, more like a run, to the nearest market.  Vegetables, spices, and nail polish;) A few of the girls from class two grab me and take me to one of the men selling wares on a blanket.  Poospa, a natural saleswoman, then insists that I buy earrings and bindis too - only about .20 all together cents not bad.  I had to stop at the bangles though.  Bhola hands me a huge ghobi, or cauliflower, and I untangle myself from the girls.  We walk over to get some alu, potatoes, and the crowd gathers again.  In an instant there are twenty villagers around me.  I start video taping and like Godda the laughter and smiles erupt.  Some of the men start tying very nice turbans on their heads so it is time for portraits then?  These will be uploaded next week.  I hope you enjoy them as much as I did taking them.  It's really hard to leave.  I could stay and photograph and attempt conversation for hours but the sun is going down.  The countryside is just so very beautiful and even as I write this ten days later I am overwhelmed by it.  Talked about Indian history and Bollywood with Siddarth before dinner.  Went to bed dreaming of Hrithik and the Aryans ... happy indeed;)

12/8 First Day of Class and surrounded in Godda

Woke up around 6a to tea.  Small breakfast with Siddarth, Bhola, and Suman.  The kids start to arrive around 7:45.  Everyone lines up for assembly at 8:15.  We are all a little timid, but just a little smile is all it takes to break the ice.  There are five classes: Nursery (ages 5-7?), Class I (7-9), Class II (8-10), Class III (9-11), and Class IV (12) - 78 students in all.  Kartik, a Class IV student who will probably be teaching classes next year, takes me around to all the classes.  Nursery is crazy, almost uncontrollable.  We color little shapes from their Math books.  Observations: the books are at least ten years old but sufficient, there are hardly any crayons, and the blackboard needs to be replaced (Just makes me think of the bags and bags of crayons I collected while organizing my mom's drawers and closets! Wish I could have brought them).  There are about 20 students and they all shout out "Miss, Miss, Miss!?!!!".  The time flies by in an instant.  The other classes also fly by too fast.  The students are patient with me, but again so so eager.  The alloted half hour per class is no where near enough time.  Turns out there have not been many volunteers this year most likely due to the economy.  A few years back there used to be as many as four a month.  So the kids have not really been taught this year.  Before I know it they are gone - school ends at noon and Bhola and I are off to the nearest city, Godda to run some errands.  Siddarth is really sick - he's had Malaria since the 70's, so we need to pick up some medicine for him and fruit for me.  Cock-a-doodle dooooo;) the song returns.  Coming out of the project is like emerging onto a movie set.  Directly across the dirt road from the project are beautiful worn stones used to beat grasses.  Immaculate circles where the cows walk on the grass.  Palm trees.  Brilliant yellow mustard fields.  The earth is red here so it gives even more contrast to the landscape.  The videos on the Blog do not do this place justice.  It's green and beautiful in the winter if not a bit hazy and the hills are said to have lots of monkeys;) We arrive in Godda in under an hour and stop at the police station for my district check in.  Siddarth had warned me that they would probably ask funny questions like "What is your religion".  And indeed they did.  Turns out the slim man with thick glasses really wanted to talk.  After reluctantly accepting my "I respect and believe in all religions" answer (he tried to insist that I was Christian), he moved on to Shakespear, Keats, Washington DC, Obama, and fall of the banking system.  Bhola was a little eager to get on with our day and gently ushered me out or else I would have stayed in the small closet like room for another three hours;)  Next we stopped at a few little school supply shops looking for dusters (erasers) and pencils.  Then a stop at the Ayurvedic medicine store for Siddarth.  I'll be going here again to report on all of the different medicines - somewhere in English like Aloe Vera Juice, Honey, .... but I'd like to go back when we have more time.  Next Bhola ran into a little store on a quieter street.  I stood outside the taxi to take some pictures.  Within three minutes, I was surrounded by about thirty people.  Thank god for the camera.  Regula had said it would be a great ice breaker.  I started to film the crowd and everyone started to laugh.  I didn't feel at all uncomfortable or nervous.  Who would have known I had issues re: personal space;)  Little kids darted in and out laughing some a little frightened but most staying to ask me my name, where I was from, etc...  Bhola called and I joined him in front of the little shop.  Tea in a small glass cup arrived ... along with the crowd.  Lots of big smiles, laughing, taking of pictures ... I hope to upload the video's next week.  We got into the taxi and the crowd followed.  We stopped about ten feet down the road and the same boys came to my window asking for my autograph.  More tea and we were off.  A few more stops for fruit and and ATM visit and we head back to Dakshinayan.  It's dark again when we arrive and Siddarth is very ill.  Dinner again is great but quiet.  After dinner, everyone typically goes to bed ... it's only around 8p but I'm tired and very content to fall asleep under a fluffy orange quilt.

12/7 Tiny taxi and cock-a-doodle doo

12/7  Up around 6am.  Most of the passengers lay and sleep till 8 or 9am.  This is nice as it leaves more space to sit.  I am offered or told really to take a seat by the window and for about two hours have the luxury of hot tea, a paper, and beautiful views of the country (mustard fields, grass huts, palm trees, people carrying large loads on their heads, cows, goats, …).  I start to get a little excited but focus on everything that is going on around me.  A young boy moves through the train car sweeping the floor crouched down turns to me so I can take a picture.  He comes back through and collects money from all the passengers.  Turns out we are about two hours late. Why? Who knows.  My cabin manager helps me with my bags to the door of the train … well, there is no door really.  I am a little nervous that everything I own is going to topple out of the train at any moment, but try to be calm.  Safely off the train, he carries both my weighted bags to the platform.  The doctor comes out to say goodbye.  Such kind people.  Bhola picks me up and we drive through Jasidih.  ATM and lunch which I guess was quite comical as they served daal in a bucket.  Then into the little taxi bound for Dakshinayan.  Hindi music is blaring and the same song involving rooster noises seems to play over and over again, but I like it.  We pass through what seems like fifty little villages.  They are all incredibly beautiful, pristine in their own way, and almost completely sustainable.  Granted these are some of the poorest in India.  They lack education and medical care.  But there is something so intrinsically harmonious and balanced about these places.  The roads are deeply rutted, so three hours into the ride the drive into Delhi looked like a walk in the park.  I’m still in good spirits as we pull into a small dark alley. Bhola has me fill out a piece of paper for the local police.  It is dark by the time we pull up to a tiny structure.  I get out of the car half expecting to be interrogated.  Instead, a stately man walks up to me and Bhola, says a few words in Hindi, looks at the paper in the complete darkness, says something else in Hindi which meant “How are you in India?”, I say “Fine.  Just a little tired.  That’s it.  Good were off.  Strange experience.  In under an hour, we reach the gate of Dakshinayan.  I’m pretty worn out by this time.  I’m greeted by Bhuri the projects dog who just had four puppies.  Siddarth is there to meet me.  Tea is served. I don’t really have much to say … just tired and a little battered from the drive.  Dinner is served.  Lots of rice, a few vegetables (cauliflower, potatoes,…), and daal.  As previous volunteers have mentioned, the food is simple but very good.  After Dinner, it is time for bed.  It was hard to believe that I finally made it here after so many months.  Can’t wait to wake up to the project in the morning!

12/6 Very Population and Oceans of Humanity

12/6 Got to video Skype with the family in the restaurant at Hotel Ajanta today.  The connection was great on my end.  I was really nervous about getting on the train. So I had tea on the roof.   I tried to walk around the hotel but just didn’t feel safe .  That particular area is really not meant for walking - at least for a newbie.  Decided to leave for the train station early as I was just getting more and more anxious. So two seconds into my first rickshaw ride a group of drunk young men yelled at the rickshaw and lurched towards us.  This and once in New York were the only times I’ve gotten really scared … heart pounding scared.  No harm done though.  We arrived at the train station in just over two minutes and were surrounded by smallish men in red worn coats.  As the swarm grew larger, the rickshaw driver shouted in Hindi refusing to accepted my torn 50 ruppee note, so I give him 100 and stepped out.  I randomly choose one of the smiling red coated men to carry my ridiculously heavy bag.  He threw it on top of his head and said we had a  kilometer to walk!  And only 500 rupees, my goodness.  I totally didn’t believe him.  I thought my bag was gone for sure.  Regardless we start the walk upstairs to the pedestrian bridge.  Gradually the crowd got more and more dense.  Then we came to a stop.  I start to panic not like the heart pounding fear I had earlier, but a deeper more intense fear.  The crowd was so thick.   Everyone was shouting and pushing.  I try to calmly tell myself there is no need for panic.  This is normal here and no one means any harm.  For some crazy reason, this worked.  I started to relax and the crowd started to shift.  My kule (sp?) shoed back at me, “Very population!“.  Yes, very population indeed.  We walk down to the platform were we wait for about an hour that seems to pass in a just a few minutes.  After finding out there is no hope for an upgrade, I resign to make the best of my first train experience in third class AC.  Luckily, I get to sit in between a doctor and older woman by the name of Basanti, or Spring.  The doctor kept asking “Why is it so busy?  And keeps saying with serious exasperation “the Oceans of humanity” over and over.  There aren’t any festivals?  Finally, it was confirmed that it is wedding season.  So we are off.  The train ride turns out to be quite nice.  Bed time rolls around and the bunks come down.  The train supplies two sheets, a blanket, and a little towel for washing.  Two very tiny Japanese women arrive around 8p and easily climb around the bunks.  I’m a little nervous as I have to climb into the middle bunk and am not so agile. But again I hope for the best and climb the little stairs.  Somehow I succeed without hurting myself or anyone else! For all the morning angst, the day turned at surprising well and I slept even better.

12/5 The Taj

Woke up at 5a with tea and an omelet.  Then set off with my driver Naveem for Agra.  I settled in for a four hour drive expecting to rest, read or write, but instead I found my self in awe of every building, person, animal, street intersection, etc.. Before I know it we are stopping for tea at a tourist trap.  I decided to buy some post cards and a warm pashmina (ironic because I left six at home).  Back on the road,. and again I can't stop taking in all the people, animals, fruit stalls, traffic, .... it may seems mundane but for now every single bit of it is fascinating.  The traffic starts to back up as we arrive in Agra.  Across the river, a brief glace of the white dome ... powerful even from that far away.  We drive by the Agra Fort.  Incredible.  I would like come back here for some sketching.  We pick up my guide who promtlty asks me to call him cha cha ji (sp?), or uncle.  He's older and definitely a veteran.  We take a bicycle rickshaw to the tourist entrance, or VIP entrance.  Glimpses of the white minirets are like a hidden but so obvious treasure.  The gardens before the grand entrance to the Taj are not quite as crowded as I thought.  The only annoyance that I keep forgetting is that with a tour you always get hit with "oppurtunities" to buy, buy, buy.  So "government approved" photographers swarm and for a moment I think "What a great idea". Ha! Only 2400 INR.  A few no thank you's, and we are on our way.  Standing before the main gate to the Taj, is like looking through a small door at a glowing treasure covered in milky diamonds.  Stepping through the gate, well, magnificent is the only word I can think of, but of course this is not adequate.  If you know me, you will know that it was only natural that I cried.  I stood in total awe and cried.  Hopefully, I wasn't too obvious;)  Recently, I was with a group of friends and we were all asked to talk about the most amazing thing we have seen.  Someone said the Taj Mahal and I was surprised.  Now, of course, I understand.  It is without a doubt the most magnificent thing I have ever seen.  We walked around the gardens to the read sandstone structures to the south.  Then around back to look at the Yamuna River which makes me think of the movie "The Fall".  There is more to say about the tour but I don't want to bore so I will write more about that later.  (I still have two days to catch up on;)) I tried to prepare myself for the inevitable stop at the shops.  I ended up spending about an hour with the marble salesman more to prove to myself that I could do it which was so not worth it because I was exhausted by the end of it.  Thank god I walked out empty handed.  Lunch was overpriced but very good - daal, alu ghobi and a beer.  Then the drive home.  I again settled in for a long drive.  All was well until we hit the Delhi entrance booth.  How can I possibly explain the mayhem?  It was night and what seemed like a million people were trying to reach the city via a road that was a "work in progress for a better  future" which consisted of a two lane rocky rutted dirt road. Mind you there were about four "lanes" of real traffic.  I hope to upload some video soon.  It took about two hours to go two kilometers.  By the time I got to my hotel, I was done ... a typical irate American tourist, demanding change, laundry, upset that my room wasn't clean etc... Who would have known I was lucky enough to see one the the wonders of the world just hours earlier;)  So I took a shower and went to bed .... feeling a bit ashamed but very grateful.  

12/4 A Day in Dusty Delhi

So off to the train station only a block away from my hotel.  Just as confusing as all the guidebooks and forums say.  Went to the wrong window.  Had to wade through touts telling me to go who knows where.  Persistence paid off and I found my self in a small office (think "Being John Malkovich" only in India) for tourists.  The ticketing process was relatively easy ... the traffic was another story.  We drove through the muslim section of Old Delhi.  Small streets filled with live goats, dead goats, tied goats, and goats wearing blue and white stripped sweaters.  Arrived at Jama Masjid apparently right before they closed for prayer.  Had to cover my self in a pink and white polka dotted dressing gown and white slippers.  Had enough time to wander around the expansive plaza, watch the birds, and listen to a man in a very small shrine talk about relics in Hindi (I think there may have been some hair from Mohommed).  Besides the massive scale, the view is lovely.  I could see a busy market and the walls of the Red Fort.  We then went to the Red Fort.  First blast of bad smells!  My driver walked me through the totally vacant subterranean walk way - very stinky, but brief.  Outside the Red Fort, a group of school boys stopped to take pictures with me.  Inside the fort, I felt like I was on the set of Jodhaa Akbar.  I really didn't have enough time to explore but none the less had one of those moments of "Am I really here"?  Next stop lunch which consisted of vegi kabobs and a whiskey sour with an egg white in it.  Is this common?  Nevertheless, I tried my hardest to ignore and work around the egg.  Afterward, we had a little break from the crowds at Gandhi's memorial.  Again, I wish I had more time to walk around the gardens.  There are several memorials and each one is incredible.  We then drove to India Gate. Interesting planning and a beautiful structure.  Then a quick drive up Parliment.  Huge and opulent.  By this time, I was pretty tired.  Back at the hotel, I rested a bit then went up to the roof for a beer. I felt like I was on the set of Blade Runner.  It's incredibly smoggy so there are no buildings to be seen in the distance. Car horns, hindi, music, marriage fireworks, strange neon signs, buildings falling apart, buildings being built, .... all surrounded in haze.  I was alone on the terrace until a seasoned Aussie traveler joined me.  After chatting for a bit, I went to bed ...  finally;)

Toto, I've a feeling were not in Coto anymore ...

After ten months of planning, two months of parties in Denver, two months with my family in Coto, CA, and 32 hours of traveling, I arrived just before dawn to a smoggy but very welcoming Delhi. The landing was relatively gentle. I saw a monkey and very large holy cow on the crazy taxi ride to my hotel ... I would like to think these sightings are a good sign;) Hotel Ajanta is friendly, if not a bit too eager to sell me tours to Agra, clean, and nowhere near as loud as I expected. I slept and slept waking up around 4a to a sleepy city. Hot cornflakes for breakfast. Online in minutes. Checking gmail and facebook is comforting for the connection. Talked with my family. Now, off to the train station to buy my ticket to Jasidih where I will be picked up by taxi for a 4 hour ride to Dakshinayan.
My mantra for this trip is "Be alert, gentle, and always have a sense of humor". I have a feeling this helped as I don't really feel overwhelmed as yet. It has been hard to understand a few folks and I probably have over paid for a few things but this was to be expected. I think I may have to include in my mantra "Be savvy and always ask for a lower price or better accommodations " may the powers of my always bargaining mother be with me;)
Video posts should be up soon ... Love, Blue (should I sign a blog?)