Third Eye

Over the last two years, I've noticed people young and old with an ever so slight red vertical line in between their eye brows. The observation was random mind you.  I was convinced it was from a visit to the pagoda connected to lunar prayers or some other kind of religious rite.  On Saturday, I asked a student ... after so long ... where did you get the mark?  Who gave it to you?  Turns out its a way to get rid of headaches or the flu.  This particular student said her father gave it to her by pulling the skin.  That evening, I had a wonderful night of drinking and eating too much with friends and woke up with a horrible hangover, so I decided to give it a try.  I woke up the next morning with a huge third eye hickey.  Not a gentle thin line, but a huge red blotch.  After five days, I still have proof that I had a headache aka hangover. Lesson learned:)

Shortly after my last post in February, I found out that my Nana went into the hospital.  She passed away in her home on March 16th.  She gave me the most amazing childhood anyone could ask for.  It sounds cliche, but a truly magical childhood. I can't believe she's gone, but know in my heart that she is happy, not just at peace, but truly happy.  Since then, I have been to the states and back.  An amazing and truly beautiful service and scattering in California.  More to come about so many lovely experiences in the last three months.
At the moment, I'm looking forward to a trip in Thailand to learn how to talk to elephants.  

So much more to learn

Two years ago, I was getting ready for Holi in Udaipur.  Getting ready for perhaps one of the most beautifully elegant dinners I've ever experienced.  Little did I know that I would have my picture taken with a prince and four days later lay in the desert with a deadly scorpion sting.  Two years later, I realize that I'm doing what I set out to do.  Get to know a country. Experience it's food, people and language.  Two years later, I feel like I know so little about Vietnam.  I feel as though I know more about India.  It seems to be an open book.  While insanely complicated, the information is available.  The culture is just in your face.  Here in Vietnam, it's a bit different.  There are so many reasons.  It's been a conquered country, so they are a little more cautious. It's communist so political and business stats are very difficult to ascertain. It's been a country ravaged by famine, so there is a constant feeling of need. ... Maybe I have learned a bit.  But there is so much more to learn. 

Kryptonite and Kohlrabi

My super power is my sense of direction and I am probably too proud and find far too much comfort in this.  My kryptonite is canals.  I would be a disaster in Venice.  However, I have found more kryptonite in the form of Asian directions.  Giving, getting and translating directions is just different.  Maps are not really used and well there's always the language barrier:) ... so maybe not kryptonite just lazonite. Regardless of an hour and a half of "exploring" District 7 tonight,  I had a fabulous time at Thu's dinner party.  My first kohlrabi and a phenomenal South African wine.  A little kryptonite isn't so bad.

Seconds

The morning of Tet, Lunar New Year, I was walking back from the park lost in Cee Lo's Crazy.  I felt a hand lightly grab my wrist and instinctively yelled.  Yelled and fell to the ground cell phone shattering to pieces.  Looked up to see two kids with spiky hair and a doctors mask speeding away assessing the damage.  At least they didn't get the phone.  The over priced android in pieces on the ground. Out of breath and pissed off, I put it back together pealing off the ravaged screen protector to reveal no damage.  Thank god.  I know better than to walk in the middle of the street with my phone in my hand but shame on them none the less.  I hope they get everything they need this new year ... including a new legitimate phone. Second motorbike robbery ... unsuccessful.  Here's to breaking the three times a charm rule.

Disneyland on steroids and a hundred dragons

Hundreds of dragons made of flowers, thousands of people and millions of motorbikes.  Baskets and baskets of yellow flowers.  Massive coins, lotus, and peacocks.  Little kids with there arms folded stoic posing for photos. Fabulous night walking and watching the third day of Tet festivities on Nguyen Hue in D1... the day for teachers.  The first is for the father, second for the mother.  The forth ... it's not clear:) The fifth is unlucky.  Guess I won't be going out tomorrow.

North Korea

Just watched a French travel show on North Korea.  How much do we actually know about this country? How much do they know about us?  Propaganda and defense was every second word. There was such fierce hatred of the U.S. - embargoes leading to famine, imperialism. Fascinating. They are a socialist country building towards a communist state.  Very interesting to compare the history of Vietnam and Korea.  Korea has been a torn country for sixty years.  The north striving for communism and the south democratic, connected, global.  On the other hand, Vietnam, a united socialist state, strong in the running to be one of the top frontier countries to invest in.  Living here, I rarely feel the "one party" system as an expat/foreigner.  Little things like facebook blocks and lack of access to Vietnamese information (ex. capitol punishment, business statistics, etc). Nor do I get to truly experience life of the majority, as I only teach those that can afford it. With new leadership will N. Korea's role in the global arena change? 

90% or Better

Karaoke contest with some very dear friends.  A room all to our selves very typical.  Fruit and beer.  Singing Vietnamese and English love songs.  I got 95%, 93%, and 100%  - what this is based on  I'm not sure.  Regardless, I was top three out of about 15 and no penalties (ie you have to pay if you get lower than 90%). It just so happens I love to sing!

Clockwork Colds

It's like clockwork.  A cold every six weeks since I landed here.  I have had more colds in the last two years than in the last twenty, but it's worth it:).

Street Treats with Triet

Last night was street food treats with an amazing Vietnamese teacher I taught with last summer.  He has perhaps the most smiling eyes I have ever seen.  He took me to a little alley restaurant that has been there for thirty years.  At 8pm we were a bit late, so they were out of some of their specialties. So we only had Bun Bo Hue which I've had before and didn't enjoy.  This time it was delicious - fresh mildly sweet and a true contender for my love of Pho.  Then my absolute favorite, Bo La Lop.  This was by far my favorite.  The beef wrapped in grape leaves was smaller than the usual place I go but it was by far superior in freshness and taste.  The fermented fish sauce was  richer. Even though we were full, we opted for a sweet treat as it was his mothers favorite.  I was a little nervous as this was unfamiliar territory.  Basically, you are served flowery sugary jasmine iced tea with your choice of jellies, fruit, chestnuts, lotus seeds and algae.  The chestnuts and clear jellies were wonderful.  The lotus seeds were a little too perfumy and seemed to be a little rancid.  He gave me a gift of dried coconut and sesame ginger peanut brittle that was the perfect ending to a great night. I love that this street is just minutes away from my house ... dinner for a dollar.  Thanks Triet.

Eyeballs and Intenstines

Our company year end party was fabulous.  While the ten performances were strange and at times just plain frightening (a rendition of Snow White seemed to go on for hours and was mostly screeching and crying), the beer and cognac flowed freely so we were determined to have a good time.  An unexpected highlight was sharing the fish eyes - chalky but now I can say I've eaten one.  A usual lowlight was the pork intestine peppercorn dish.  I keep trying it hoping I will like it ... guess I'll have to try again.  However, I love the green peppercorn still on the stem maybe that's the draw.  Turns out Vietnam is the leading exporting of pepper.  Interesting:)

Year of the Dragon

The year of the Dragon begins in two days the first day of the Lunar New Year - Tet.  I have a week and a half off to enjoy Saigon - a quieter, cleaner Saigon.  To walk the parks packed with flowers and stunning Yellow Mai trees.  To explore the tiny crooked alleys, or hems for new coffee shops. To find new street stalls with new food. To watch lion dances. To practice my Vietnamese. To really take in the city for the first time in almost two years. I can feel the excitement especially in the heart of District 1 around Nguyen Hue and 23/9.  The Dragon displays are elaborate. The streets lights have grown exponentially.  Everything is starting to shut down and as of Monday it will be a ghost town.  I can't wait. The year of the Dragon is supposed to be lucky .... I believe.

Coming and going

A month ago I was nervous about going back to the states.  A week ago, I was nervous about coming back to Saigon.  Regardless of a previous visit to the states, I was mostly concerned with culture shock. The shock and reverse shock was mostly with language as it was previously.  Entering LA, it just seemed so loud.  Funny coming from a city of 8 million.  But being able to understand everyone was both annoying and funny as I found myself hanging on every word around me.  People seemed a little more rude in the states but being able to say thank you so much was incredibly comforting.  As I've said before I'm not homesick just family/friendsick.  However, I will say that I absolutely loved cake pops and Modern Family.  Wicked with my sister was the best Broadway show I have ever seen.  Wine tasting with my Mom, Dad and Nana on my first night was a delightful blur. Christmas tree shopping was nostalgic. Pho with the family was sadly rushed but I think they got a good taste of Vietnam. Indulging in my favorite wines not once, twice but, yes, three times, was a blessing. I wanted so badly to try out my Vietnamese but our servers were timid ... or was I? I did have some trouble crossing the streets as in Saigon you just go ... only one minor accident involving a bike oops:). It was delightfully cold in the tiny canyons of Coto and even at Newport Beach.  But surprisingly upon reentry to HCMC the humidity was actually comforting. The smells ... comforting.  Burning full moon fires and durian. The traffic, language, lack of personal space all oddly comforting.  Everyone is now getting ready for lunar new year or Tet ... their Christmas basically.  The streets are amazing.  Everything is lit up.  Yellow mai flowers everywhere.  I'm happy to be home .... but miss my family more than ever.  Yeah just familysick. I wonder where home will be next year?

A Promise

I solemnly swear that the moment I start living in a new country I will begin learning the language.  The bad habits of bad Vietnamese that I've accumulated in the last year are driving me and my VN teacher crazy. 

Mua Mua Mua

After a few days of sauna hot days, the rain returns.  And it's serious.  It doesn't want to stop ... after almost a day.  Huge powerful in your lap thunder storms. I'm so looking forward to a little mild SoCal sunshine for Christmas:).